Rodchester

The advantix film sucks. It is easy to get a good shot with it and many of the cameras are lightweight and compact. However, I find the quality of the advantix prints to be lacking. Good yes, but not great. It is impossible to get truely great shots. I think 35mm is far superior. 2 cents......

Grivel AirTech Racing: I have one and really like it. A really good general mountainering ice axe that is very light and...does have some limitations. It is so light that when used as a "tool" it does have some problem with pentration, but it does work. It just tends to bounce off when a heavier tool or axe would penetrate. So swing harder, you'll get over it. The lightweight doesn't help with self arrest either. Also, the spike on the "Racing" version is not the best. I do agree with what scot'terx said....that it will not stand up to repeated abuse. But I do think it is a "real ice axe." I do agree with DPS that it can be used on harder stuff...it just has limitations. I have heard it is the lightest UIAA approved ice axe...true false, gear shop legend? Overall it is one of the best axes on the market...I think it is the best lightweight axe out there. I have heard very good about the BD Raven. It is just a bit heavier. Let us know what you go with and how it performs....

I can see it now...the likes of the cc.com gang in full uniform and armed to the teeth. Dru: Since you are a canuck, you get to wear the old style mountie hat, the smokey the bear type, with big baggy pants and a red shirt. Dudley Dru Right

Mountain Stewards - Volunteers Needed Mt. Baker is a heavily used North Cascade volcano with an estimated 4,000-5,000 climbers attempting to reach its summit each year. The Coleman and Easton glaciers are the most heavily used climbing routes with peak weekends recording more than 200 climbers each. Thousands of hikers also use the mountain's approach trails and dispersed campsites, adding to physical and biological impacts on its slopes. In cooperation with the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, we're pleased to launch Mountain Stewards, a new stewardship program that will train adult volunteers in low-impact recreation skills, natural history and backcountry management. This summer, on weekends from July 26 through August 18, the volunteers must commit to three days of educating hikers and climbers along trails and at base camps en route to the Easton and Coleman glaciers. Shifts will take place during daytime hours, Friday through Sunday. Volunteers must be skilled in hiking and outdoor recreation, including snow travel, but will not be required to travel on technical climbing routes. If you're an experienced hiker with a passion for protecting wild places, learn more about becoming a Mountain Steward. Call us at 360-856-5700 ext. 209 or email nci@ncascades.org.

Check out these. They might be what you are looking for. http://www.omegapac.com/product.asp?id=573 I use the neutrinos and really like them. The size isn't bad as long as you don't have gloves on.

Fromage: Is this the belay device you got in Europe? http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp

DP: "you drive to almost 7,000 feet" on Rainier. Paradise is more like 5500 ft.

Hey that was a good response by BD. I'll put them up there with Omega Pacific for stepping up to the storm and taking it on. So quit your whinning and send them back.

If you want an all around crampon for general mountaineering and some easy water ice on occaision I would look at the Grivel G12 and/or the Grivel 2F. The 2F can be locked into a rigid platform 9Or stay felxible) and used on moderate water ice (Not the best but it does work). It is a greaat general mountaineering crampon. They have an agressive front point set up, more than most all others, for steep snow and alpine ice. One negative about these is the cut of the crampon encourages the "balling up" of snow. I think it was Dru that said that with these you need to learn to walk on stilts. My wife uses these and so does Wopper. Wopper uses them on Grade WI 3 ice. The G12 is known as a crampon that fits larger boots easily. Also the size adjustment is easy and quick. These should fit your boots without having to buy an "extension" bar as you likely will with the Charlet Mosers and the 2F, especially with those skis you call feet. They have an agressive front point set up, same as the 2F, for steep snow and alpine ice. I use these crampons as my mountaineering crampons and really like them. Reasonable price too. Get the "new-matic" binding so it will fit a wide variety of boots, not just your plastics. These are also very easy to put on and take off with gloves. Look at the the aluminum choice too. If you are using them just for general mountaineering they can really rock. The weight difference really makes it worth looking at. Good luck P.S. Check out this thread for other beta on crampons. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=9&t=000347 [ 03-28-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Wolfie: What route were you on in the Winds?

wdietsch: Actually, I was looking for a comparison by the pound. Silly me, I am so tied to the old system, at least with weight. Distances I can do in metric. Thanks though... fxo

Anyone know what they weight is in pounds compared to the Ecrin roc? http://petzl.devcross.com/petzl/publicFamille?id=CASQ#ECRIN%20ROC

Oh I get it they sold out to the man that has been keeping us down (as climbers that is really oppresive). Thanks for not telling me.

Just a point of interest: I was having beers in Chicago with a very well known female climber (freed the nose type - can't name names because I might be accused of name dropping) and she told me a story about Yvon and tha nameing of BD. It has been some years since this conversation, but my recollection of it was something like: The only route she had ever done in Wyoming (at the time anyway) was one with Yvon. She was visiting him in Jackson and he said come with me to do this climb that I have been eyeing for a while. At a distance he pointed the route out to her and said something about it looking like a Black Diamond. They did the climb and returned to Jackson. Soemtime later he told her that climb was on his mind during the sale, it was suggested and it stuck. Now, I may have been lied to, or a I may have recalled it incorrectly. I am ONLY repeating what I was told over beers and pizza from someone that climbed with the guy. Just thought it to be interesting... And there is a difference between selling and selling out. Who did they sell out to? Themselves?

Try Second Ascent in Ballard for cheap climbing shoes, it ain't free...but he might be able to trade other old gear for shoes. A couple of the guys there kind a collect old gear, and they might want that gear sling. Good luck

Vanilla Ice: AlpineK is right on...nothing wrong with a little venting...but call CS and give them a chance. freeclimb9: "Why is this statement put on their website? Coincidence?" That was you on the grassy knoll, wasn't it? If that is all you got, you look pretty bad. There is no boogey man.

JT: No doubt. I called Bullshit on him too, and he simply ignored my request.

freeclimb9: "(a couple people had to die first)" That is a big finger I see pointing at BD. Who died, where, when, some details please. Some fixed line broke, on some expedition? One guy died? Sounds like a suburban legend to me. This one time...I was at band camp. Last week it was go ahead and girth hitch wire stoppers/nuts and you will be fine....now it is BD products kill people? Vanilla Ice: "put with a week in the Israeli army then we will see who is the woos" You really are a whiner. Ooooh the Israeli Army...think that is going to impress the posters here? Did you only last a week? Oh we are impressed. There are WAY too many vets on this page to play that card. Put it away before your ass gets smoked. And one more thing: "I've still got my old Chouinard hexes strung with Kevlar" I would recommend reslinging them. Not because Kevlar is inherently dangerous...but the fact is that Kevlar does wear considerably faster. This is especially true if the cord is tied and retied multiple times. Remember, it is a brittle that can stop a sub caliber bullet, but not a knife (when used in bullet proof vests that is).

Oooops!!!!! See Below (I know I suck) [ 03-26-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Specialized: "And now you can buy your own helmut sticker pack for only $9.95. Sellout?" How is that a sellout? and who is that BD is selling out to? Themselves? They're a company, that's what they do. I don't think they truy to hide it either...that's why they're selling stickers. Did I miss something?

I'm with rbw1966. I wouldn't bitch until you have given thier CS Dept. a chance to fail too. Send them back or take them back. I have been happy with most BD products, and I even have a pair of the drytrool gloves. Yes they do wear rather quickly, most gloves I have worn do. Overall I really like them.

I have used an array of synthetics and some woll based products. I am happy with the various synthetic products I am presently using. My GENERAL view of wool is that it is an insulation layer that works well (even when wet)but as with all products it has limitations. It tends to be heavy and while it certainly wicks, it absorbs too much moisture in the process. yes it still insulates when wet, but it gets heavier and face it your still wet. I know some are hot on the newer wool based products such as Smartwool. I have not used these, so I cannot comment on them specifically. However, I would imagine if it is engineered correctly and with new processes, maybe wool has a place. I know Jim Nelson is a pretty big proponent of the Smartwool stuff. I would be interested to hear someone's informed (experienced) opinin on the use of the smartwool. Anyone with expedition style use?

BDs are nice, but they are a bit heavy. I have heard it said that the BDs have a greater range and therefore make up for the weight by being able to carry fewer. They have the reputation of being the strongest cam, so strong you can use them in as an active cam or as a passive "nut" type of protection. Don't quote me on this. I have used the BD and think they are an excellent cam. I have a full set a Trangos and I am happy with them. Why did I buy them? Because they were on sale. But they are fine for the climbing I do. I have also used the Metolious and think they are a very good cam. Good luck

I agree with DPS on the Hexes, especially in an alpine enviroment. (4 largest sizes)

I do agree with you. Bivies can be fun and interesting. But I think the point of not using a bivy is to push yourself not to need a bivy. Because a bivy or a high camp in North America is much more likely to be needed, the idea of doing without one is challenging. Europeans (most anyway) have no, or little, appreciation for wilderness because Europe has so little wilderness. The hut system and cable car system removes much of the need for a bivy. In North America many climbs are in areas that are comparativly much more remote than many of the European climbing areas. I think (yes i could be wrong) the quote from Gaston Rebuffat. "The man who climbs only in good weather, starting from huts and never bivouacking" addresses the European situtation much more so than the North American situation. I have been in the huts in South America on a few occaisions and heard the Euros bitch and complain about the lack of services, the dirt, etc. While I thought, "wow this is plush." This was echoed by most every NA climber I ran into in SA. Why? I grew up running around the woods and hills of the Ohio River valley and spent weeks-on-end out under the stars each summer. So did most kids that I knew. And I am sure most posters here did the same or something similar. When I learned to climb it was always put your tent or bivy sack in your pack and go. In Europe very few are raised this way. The focus is GENERALLY on huts. Just an observation and a few thoughts. Anyone else? (I am not saying I am right and the Euros are wrong, just different And I am not saying this is universal)