Marko

No bueno, those are (were) excellent crampons. So Wayne, what do you think of the Dart or Dartwin?

Really cool lads! Another killer adventure, Blake. Keep 'em coming man. -M

Once again: The Washburn of the Cascades!

So how do you keep the skinny line from feeding through the rap device faster than the fat line and then subsequently start sawing through the rappel sling? My tag line is ~5 meters longer than my lead line to account for stretch of the lead/fat line... this extra also allows for some movement of the knot on the sling... whoever raps second always repositions the knot back against the rap sling prior to rapping though as some slippage does occur... I have never seen so much slippage or at a rate that cuts/melts the rap sling. What I do to minimize the amount of movement is I put an extra biner on just the skinny line side (total of 2) for rapping... the extra surface area seems to give enough friction so that the skinny line moves at about the same rate as the fat line... it helps that I don't climb on anything larger than 9.4 in the alpine also. I can take a pic if that would help. I'd be worried about the skinny line getting cut over an edge while you're rapping. On the other hand, if the tag line gets cut while you're yanking around on it to pull the ropes... yer in fer some fun. I'm guessing, also, that you're using Techcord which stretches a much less and is more cut resistant than my ratty 6mm Perlon. The 6mm stretches and slides a whole lot more than even the 9mm Stratos or the 8.5mm Sharp I usually use. I use the additional carabiner trick when rapping of the doubled 6mm alone but hadn't thought of rigging the 'biner just on the 6mm for double rope rappels. Good idea.

So how do you keep the skinny line from feeding through the rap device faster than the fat line and then subsequently start sawing through the rappel sling?

Do you mean to say that Casa Que Pasa is no longer? No, no, no, no, please, no!

Yep, it's a great route in a great place with a hell of a view of Alberta's north face after you top out.

Well frikkin' done!

German Shorthair type mutt.

I agree, but are you thinking Ulrich's then Goat Pass to Stuart Lake for the deproach? Downclimb West Ridge? Anyone have good beta for getting down the NW Buttress?

Thanks Tony. I've heard it's pretty inobvious.

Bellingham

Can anyone recommend any 1 or 2 day alpine climbs out of Cedar Grove? Thanks, Mark

It's pretty quick right now what with the snow hanging around...

So cool man. Another stellar looking climb amigos! TW

Anyone been down it and have decent descent beta? Thanks

Thanks for the list Fairweather, so the fuss is about EO 12598, March 25, '03?

This isn't real. Please tell me this isn't real. This can't be fucking real.

Thanks for the nonstop inspiration man!

Exactly the point, but less knot tying and other jiggery pokery. The equalette looks like it also might have less effective length for a given length of line.

Yeah, probably even more true with the small locking carabiners we're using these days, crowding the strands all together...

After spilling a couple pot fulls of hard won water with the Rocket and the small size canister, we came up with the idea of putting a bag of instant rice under the canister. Squish the canister into the rice and it's way more stable. Mind you it goes from insanely tippy to merely quite tippy. Everything's a compromise though right... MCash- The Pocket Rocket with the JetBoil pot, not the canister, was the quickest boil. Due to the heat exchanger no doubt. Yo Sky! Hope things are groovy man! You ever compare a Whisperlite with the XGK? I always use a Whisperlite up in AK and it seems faster than the XGKs I've been around. The burner is closer to the pot than with the XGK and could be an explanation. -M

So no one here makes a double sliding X for a 3-piece anchor using a cordelette?

Not super impressed with the JetBoil. Attached is the results of some backyard testing I did a while ago. Also cooked in the tent up at Muir a couple times and was seriously jonesin' for the Pocket Rocket. I think maybe if the JetBoil pan was short and wide instead of tall and narrow it'd work better. It's very convenient for converting into a hanging stove though. -M 3740-Stovecomparisons.xls

Right on amigos. Is it fun up there in April or what?