Marko

Trip: Snoqualmie Mtn - Pineapple Express - Blue Moon var. Date: 1/8/2012 Trip Report: It's way in! 3/4 of the route is styrofoam goodness, the first pitch of PE even had ice and took a couple screws. Approach Notes: I talked Rolf into slowshoes. Just say no, bring skis. Duh.

I'm looking now, too... Which has the best (most effective, longest lasting) dry treatment in your all's experience?

Trip: NY Gully - Date: 12/24/2011 Trip Report: Scott Gullberg and I scratched our way up the route yesterday. It's the bonyest I've ever seen it, and thus a bit harder than usual; though Scott did a fine job leading the crux pitches. One thing I'd mention is that you'd best tread lightly and swing lightly in these conditions to avoid destroying the turf up there. There's zero ice right now and only a handful of sticks into neve so the turf is even more of a valuable commodity. There's also quite a bit of loose rock exposed that is usually covered and more frozen into place.

Sort of a bothy bag with tie-in pass-thrus, eh? Not as restful as laying down I imagine. http://www.terra-nova.co.uk/Product_Type/Tents/Bivi__Bothy_Bags/Superlite_Bothy_2_Red.html?view=description

Glad you got out and got some!

I've only done the Eldo Ck approach and was amazed at how long it took us, what with descending the fairly broken up glacier (1 rap I think). 7 hrs to get to the climb, and 3 or so to do the climb. Easy travelling, just took a while.

Oh hell yeah! Beautiful, strong work! Great place, and words and pics indeed.

Cool adventurous shit from Rat and his posse. As always.

There's still quite a bit of white on it and not much exposed glacial ice. The 'shrund looked pretty open. You may have some shenanigans getting over it, but I only walked in as far as the meadow so couldn't really tell. I couldn't see the top out so don't how dry it is. There didn't appear to be any dirty streaks from rockfall on the route but I did hear a pretty good rockfall event coming from the Ice Cliff Glacier cirque. Start early before the sun hits it of course... Cheers

Hell yes, when everything else gets all soggy, frozen, and useless the Dachstein mitts will save your digits!

Howdy John, We parked at the mudslide, right at 8-mile campground entrance. That frickin' thing is impressive. There were old ski tracks continuing up the Stuart Lk trail, probably from the Argonaut dudes from mid April. Stuart looks way good, get on that thing!

As of Saturday the north side is in great shape, good neve down low and more ice than the other times I've been up there. The snow on the upper part of the north face got a bit slushy when the sun hit it for a couple hours but the Triple Couloirs stayed shaded; so probably less neve and more loose snow. Everything's in up there! We brought snowshoes part of the way but only used them for part of the de-proach. I'll try to put a TR together with some pics.

She's real purdy, Alex. Best tie the motor up a bit though... Doing Blakely?

Even in his advancing years... http://www.colinhaley.blogspot.com/

deuce4 is Middendorf then?

Yep, and it's the cultural capital of the galaxy. Oh wait, that's Kenmore I'm thinking of.

No takers and didn't feel like soloing so skied up Mt Catherine instead. How was pickin' and scratchin', Wayne?

It's all mighty, amigo!

Start skiing in by 8? I'm willing to change plans if the approach slopes are sketchy however. Mark 206-ICE-CLYM

Very cool Gullbergs; glad you got to the hills on your visit!

Just dropped $50; more to follow next month...

Dudes, that is really, really cool! Nice frikkin' adventure!

Nice, Wayne and Beau!

Nice, Mike! Remember, WWJD (What Would Jerzy Do?).

That's some goddamn cool shit you done did, gents!! I've been pondering that thing for years, but too lazy to get on it; well done! A friend and I did that N face route a while back. It does indeed start with a chimney around the corner that makes a nice funnel for the inevitable spindrift torrent. Your route is way steeper and cooler looking than the N face for sure.