Marko

"only" ha ha Si senor, wanna give it a go? (Not this weekend though...)

'Bout time those bolts got yanked. My 2 cents worth anyway.

Hey Mike, I got our pin back from 10+ years ago or whenever the hell that was

Very true This climb's been on my list for a while now, nice FA Jim! Did you guys enter the gully from the left or the right? Lower pitch and a half reaches normal east face ramp: 2nd pitch: 2nd pitch: Top of 3rd: Start of 4th (chimney): Rolf smoked the delicate cruxes of course!

Sweet climb lads. Did it a bunch of summers ago and remember thinking it'd be a great climb in winter.

Photos really do round out a TR; I'm a believer now.

With 2 unused spare picks, 1 leash, 1 tether

Very freakin' cool dudes, looks like a Scottish good time!

Best on the wall I'd say, so far. Yep, thanks Wayne, and have fun up north!

Alas, forgot der camera. And Rolf started getting annoyed when I kept asking him to wait up while I tried to sketch the enchanting scenes we were enjoying. We may do a re-enactment for the magazine shoot though.

ok

Trip: Snoqualmie Mtn - Pineapple Express - Blue Moon var. Date: 1/8/2012 Trip Report: It's way in! 3/4 of the route is styrofoam goodness, the first pitch of PE even had ice and took a couple screws. Approach Notes: I talked Rolf into slowshoes. Just say no, bring skis. Duh.

I'm looking now, too... Which has the best (most effective, longest lasting) dry treatment in your all's experience?

Trip: NY Gully - Date: 12/24/2011 Trip Report: Scott Gullberg and I scratched our way up the route yesterday. It's the bonyest I've ever seen it, and thus a bit harder than usual; though Scott did a fine job leading the crux pitches. One thing I'd mention is that you'd best tread lightly and swing lightly in these conditions to avoid destroying the turf up there. There's zero ice right now and only a handful of sticks into neve so the turf is even more of a valuable commodity. There's also quite a bit of loose rock exposed that is usually covered and more frozen into place.

Similar to http://promountainsports.com/index.php/shelter/tarps/integral-designs-sil-shelter.html but 12 oz including a few guy lines, and without entrance flap. 7 ft long, no tears or scrapes, very low miles.

Sort of a bothy bag with tie-in pass-thrus, eh? Not as restful as laying down I imagine. http://www.terra-nova.co.uk/Product_Type/Tents/Bivi__Bothy_Bags/Superlite_Bothy_2_Red.html?view=description

Glad you got out and got some!

I've only done the Eldo Ck approach and was amazed at how long it took us, what with descending the fairly broken up glacier (1 rap I think). 7 hrs to get to the climb, and 3 or so to do the climb. Easy travelling, just took a while.

Oh hell yeah! Beautiful, strong work! Great place, and words and pics indeed.

Cool adventurous shit from Rat and his posse. As always.

There's still quite a bit of white on it and not much exposed glacial ice. The 'shrund looked pretty open. You may have some shenanigans getting over it, but I only walked in as far as the meadow so couldn't really tell. I couldn't see the top out so don't how dry it is. There didn't appear to be any dirty streaks from rockfall on the route but I did hear a pretty good rockfall event coming from the Ice Cliff Glacier cirque. Start early before the sun hits it of course... Cheers

Hell yes, when everything else gets all soggy, frozen, and useless the Dachstein mitts will save your digits!

Howdy John, We parked at the mudslide, right at 8-mile campground entrance. That frickin' thing is impressive. There were old ski tracks continuing up the Stuart Lk trail, probably from the Argonaut dudes from mid April. Stuart looks way good, get on that thing!

As of Saturday the north side is in great shape, good neve down low and more ice than the other times I've been up there. The snow on the upper part of the north face got a bit slushy when the sun hit it for a couple hours but the Triple Couloirs stayed shaded; so probably less neve and more loose snow. Everything's in up there! We brought snowshoes part of the way but only used them for part of the de-proach. I'll try to put a TR together with some pics.

She's real purdy, Alex. Best tie the motor up a bit though... Doing Blakely?