Very true
This climb's been on my list for a while now, nice FA Jim! Did you guys enter the gully from the left or the right?
Lower pitch and a half reaches normal east face ramp:
2nd pitch:
2nd pitch:
Top of 3rd:
Start of 4th (chimney):
Rolf smoked the delicate cruxes of course!
Alas, forgot der camera. And Rolf started getting annoyed when I kept asking him to wait up while I tried to sketch the enchanting scenes we were enjoying.
We may do a re-enactment for the magazine shoot though.
Trip: Snoqualmie Mtn - Pineapple Express - Blue Moon var.
Date: 1/8/2012
Trip Report:
It's way in! 3/4 of the route is styrofoam goodness, the first pitch of PE even had ice and took a couple screws.
Approach Notes:
I talked Rolf into slowshoes. Just say no, bring skis. Duh.
Trip: NY Gully -
Date: 12/24/2011
Trip Report:
Scott Gullberg and I scratched our way up the route yesterday. It's the bonyest I've ever seen it, and thus a bit harder than usual; though Scott did a fine job leading the crux pitches.
One thing I'd mention is that you'd best tread lightly and swing lightly in these conditions to avoid destroying the turf up there. There's zero ice right now and only a handful of sticks into neve so the turf is even more of a valuable commodity. There's also quite a bit of loose rock exposed that is usually covered and more frozen into place.
Similar to http://promountainsports.com/index.php/shelter/tarps/integral-designs-sil-shelter.html but 12 oz including a few guy lines, and without entrance flap. 7 ft long, no tears or scrapes, very low miles.
Sort of a bothy bag with tie-in pass-thrus, eh? Not as restful as laying down I imagine.
http://www.terra-nova.co.uk/Product_Type/Tents/Bivi__Bothy_Bags/Superlite_Bothy_2_Red.html?view=description
I've only done the Eldo Ck approach and was amazed at how long it took us, what with descending the fairly broken up glacier (1 rap I think). 7 hrs to get to the climb, and 3 or so to do the climb. Easy travelling, just took a while.