Marko

So let's say: Axars $120, Black Prophets $150, and X-15s $70. (Even I think 6 pairs of tools in the collection are too many...) The Axars have been great alpine tools; they're light (<24 oz for the hammer w/o leash) and have a moderate clearance shaft that helps for the occaisional mixed pitch. The Black Prophets are friggin' solid waterfall tools; a bit heavy (26.5 oz) and no clearance shaft but it doesn't take much of a swing to get a confidence-inspiring no-vibration stick. Grip shape seems to fit larger hands. BD makes the best adze I've seen for torquing in cracks, chopping out gear placements & ledges, and for climbing crappy snow/ice. The carbon fiber X-15s are certainly outdated but are still pretty light (24 oz) and bomber in the mountains. Same pick as the BPs. Definitely for larger hands.

Axars-- Well used but good shape, 7 extra picks (3 unused), $130/pair obo: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=32554&cat=516 Black Prophets-- Low miles, new picks, $180/pair obo: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=32553&cat=516 X-15s-- New picks, $80/pair obo: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=32552&cat=516 Pick these up and I'll throw in a few Snargs just to complete the ensemble! -M

If you're interested, I've got one of these in a gold color: http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442622282&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302699049&bmUID=1191371416393 Size large I think (I'll check tonight), perfect shape, tags are still on it. $280 or so. -M

Welllllll, here's one thing that definitely works, but can be kinda dicey... Cayenne pepper on the toes! It keeps the circulation up no problem, but you really know it if you put on too much. Unfortunately you won't know it until after you've been pushing for a little while. Maybe a wee bit combined with one of the more conventional (sane) methods would do the trick.

She ain't the latest or the greatest but she still gets around just fine: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=32000&cat=500&ppuser=169

Wonderful!

No bueno, those are (were) excellent crampons. So Wayne, what do you think of the Dart or Dartwin?

Really cool lads! Another killer adventure, Blake. Keep 'em coming man. -M

Once again: The Washburn of the Cascades!

So how do you keep the skinny line from feeding through the rap device faster than the fat line and then subsequently start sawing through the rappel sling? My tag line is ~5 meters longer than my lead line to account for stretch of the lead/fat line... this extra also allows for some movement of the knot on the sling... whoever raps second always repositions the knot back against the rap sling prior to rapping though as some slippage does occur... I have never seen so much slippage or at a rate that cuts/melts the rap sling. What I do to minimize the amount of movement is I put an extra biner on just the skinny line side (total of 2) for rapping... the extra surface area seems to give enough friction so that the skinny line moves at about the same rate as the fat line... it helps that I don't climb on anything larger than 9.4 in the alpine also. I can take a pic if that would help. I'd be worried about the skinny line getting cut over an edge while you're rapping. On the other hand, if the tag line gets cut while you're yanking around on it to pull the ropes... yer in fer some fun. I'm guessing, also, that you're using Techcord which stretches a much less and is more cut resistant than my ratty 6mm Perlon. The 6mm stretches and slides a whole lot more than even the 9mm Stratos or the 8.5mm Sharp I usually use. I use the additional carabiner trick when rapping of the doubled 6mm alone but hadn't thought of rigging the 'biner just on the 6mm for double rope rappels. Good idea.

So how do you keep the skinny line from feeding through the rap device faster than the fat line and then subsequently start sawing through the rappel sling?

Do you mean to say that Casa Que Pasa is no longer? No, no, no, no, please, no!

Yep, it's a great route in a great place with a hell of a view of Alberta's north face after you top out.

Well frikkin' done!

German Shorthair type mutt.

I agree, but are you thinking Ulrich's then Goat Pass to Stuart Lake for the deproach? Downclimb West Ridge? Anyone have good beta for getting down the NW Buttress?

Thanks Tony. I've heard it's pretty inobvious.

Bellingham

Can anyone recommend any 1 or 2 day alpine climbs out of Cedar Grove? Thanks, Mark

It's pretty quick right now what with the snow hanging around...

I bought a tent like you describe for $100 last week at Big 5. Here's a similar one: http://big5sportinggoods.shoplocal.com/big5/default.aspx?action=detail&storeid=2504098&rapid=0&pagenumber=0&listingid=-2093122812&offerid=&ref=%2fbig5%2fdefault.aspx%3faction%3dsearch%26storeid%3d2504098%26searchtext%3dtent

So cool man. Another stellar looking climb amigos! TW

Anyone been down it and have decent descent beta? Thanks

Thanks for the list Fairweather, so the fuss is about EO 12598, March 25, '03?

This isn't real. Please tell me this isn't real. This can't be fucking real.