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Marko

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Everything posted by Marko

  1. Damn right, been eyein' that one for a while.
  2. Right on Scott, way to sneak one in before the rains. Musta been nice interesting climbing.
  3. You might want to check out the Hilleberg tents. They're roomy, light for their size, and very stout in a blow. I spent a few weeks in a Keron up in the north land and noticed that every detail about it was simple and well thought out. Definitely worth a look. -M
  4. Green means go. Blue means back the hell up and go up green, it's way fun. I no talk more.
  5. Shit colin; Very, very, very friggin' cool! My first thought was mega-Eiger for sure. Second thought was North Twin! Looks like some interesting route-finding involved. Damn good job! Slide show?
  6. Attachments... 581349-Garfield.doc
  7. I thought Blitz invented it and Twight popularized it, thanks for the clarification. Matt, So it might be that the middle 1/3 or maybe 1/2 of the 2 routes are common, eh? The FA done 2 decades ago is probably the real truth...
  8. OW, I'll see if I can dig a couple route photos up. John, Yep, I figured all that, and I absolutely agree with the intent. But it seems a bit odd that someone as meticulous and conscious of details as Twight would publicize a comment that falls apart when you take a second look at it. Of course I don't have any better ideas so I suppose this is an example of talk without action... -M
  9. Digression: Note that Infinite Bliss is really a variation of a route put up in 1999 by Mike Preiss onsight, solo (some self-belaying) and with no bolts. Even more digression: The solution of Johnny Blitz' equation has alway kinda bugged me: Talk - Action = Zilch... So what then, Talk = Action?
  10. Marko

    Missing Climbers

    Keep an eye on this site: http://www.nps.gov/dena/home/news/ The weather's still too crappy to fly the summit area apparently. Their missing is hard to believe.
  11. I would like to report that the Fairview is alive and well. To the detriment of my liver...
  12. My Mythos seem to actually wear better than my board lasted shoes. I'm thinking it's because the rubber isn't backed up by the hard last and is able to deform *around* rocks and whatnot rather than be subjected to more of a point contact. Only a hypothesis at this point... On the other hand, it's your feet that take the abuse.
  13. So I went and bought one and used it up in the hills the other night (~20°F). Kinda cool all unitized and all. It'll be a great hanging stove. Seemed similar in cool weather performance to the old Pocket Rocket. Pot's OK if you're not in a hurry melting snow, but sucks if you're used to a 2 liter pot. Then I took it home and did a battle of the stoves boiling ice blocks. Attached are the results in an Excel spreadsheet. Basically, in spite of the better efficiency of canister stoves, I'm taking the old tried and true Whisperlight up to Alaska again. Blaze on, Mark 559818-Stovecomparisons.xls
  14. I think he's right, it's more alpine ice really. Well done gents! -M
  15. Anyone use these in cold weather and have an opinion on them? Thanks
  16. Right on Ade and Waz! Yeah, there's actually some pretty cool lines up the cliffy bits. Just to the right of the little route we did but hidden in your topo, there's a cool looking WI 5, M??, further right there's a stiffer looking rig (the fangs visible to the right). What did the ice slabs to the left of your route look like? Was shite melting out up there at all?
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