Marko

Cool adventurous shit from Rat and his posse. As always.

There's still quite a bit of white on it and not much exposed glacial ice. The 'shrund looked pretty open. You may have some shenanigans getting over it, but I only walked in as far as the meadow so couldn't really tell. I couldn't see the top out so don't how dry it is. There didn't appear to be any dirty streaks from rockfall on the route but I did hear a pretty good rockfall event coming from the Ice Cliff Glacier cirque. Start early before the sun hits it of course... Cheers

Hell yes, when everything else gets all soggy, frozen, and useless the Dachstein mitts will save your digits!

Howdy John, We parked at the mudslide, right at 8-mile campground entrance. That frickin' thing is impressive. There were old ski tracks continuing up the Stuart Lk trail, probably from the Argonaut dudes from mid April. Stuart looks way good, get on that thing!

As of Saturday the north side is in great shape, good neve down low and more ice than the other times I've been up there. The snow on the upper part of the north face got a bit slushy when the sun hit it for a couple hours but the Triple Couloirs stayed shaded; so probably less neve and more loose snow. Everything's in up there! We brought snowshoes part of the way but only used them for part of the de-proach. I'll try to put a TR together with some pics.

She's real purdy, Alex. Best tie the motor up a bit though... Doing Blakely?

Even in his advancing years... http://www.colinhaley.blogspot.com/

deuce4 is Middendorf then?

Yep, and it's the cultural capital of the galaxy. Oh wait, that's Kenmore I'm thinking of.

No takers and didn't feel like soloing so skied up Mt Catherine instead. How was pickin' and scratchin', Wayne?

It's all mighty, amigo!

Start skiing in by 8? I'm willing to change plans if the approach slopes are sketchy however. Mark 206-ICE-CLYM

Very cool Gullbergs; glad you got to the hills on your visit!

Just dropped $50; more to follow next month...

Dudes, that is really, really cool! Nice frikkin' adventure!

Nice, Wayne and Beau!

Nice, Mike! Remember, WWJD (What Would Jerzy Do?).

That's some goddamn cool shit you done did, gents!! I've been pondering that thing for years, but too lazy to get on it; well done! A friend and I did that N face route a while back. It does indeed start with a chimney around the corner that makes a nice funnel for the inevitable spindrift torrent. Your route is way steeper and cooler looking than the N face for sure.

Hi Scotty! Not sure about the Lowe, maybe it was the old Serratus Genie you saw pictures of? Check out the new MEC Genie in any case: http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442629340&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302699687&bmUID=1264955158513 I recently bought one and like it so far. They fixed the one downer of the old one; the top flap pocket zipper is now on the outside instead of under the flap. And it's a water repellent zipper. If you strip it down, the new model is actually lighter than the old model. (At least comparing the two packs I have.) It's a bit larger, too, though I'm not so keen on that. The body fabric is Dyneema reinforced but feels sorta flimsy. That being said, I've always had good luck with the similar fabric used on the the Golite packs. Hope you're keeping warm down there! M

I'd agree. Ade, since you led it what do you think? Actually, some of that stuff might still be there, just a bit avi threatened now.

NE; see quickie 3 Fingers TR...

We descended skier's right of Beckey's dotted line. It was horrible brush and cliffs, in the dark! We should have done what Ade wanted to do in the first place and descend the south-facing cliffy slope going down into the approach cirque. It would have probably required one or more rappels off trees but would have been way better than what we ended up doing.

Trip: Three Fingers - NE Face attempt Date: 12/10/2009 Trip Report: So's not to further highjack Darin's TR... Snow and ice conditions were nearly ideal. The main ice pitches were not quite as fat as what the FA pictures showed but still plenty of good ice. The crux pitch had some interesting pulling-over-a-bulge-onto-loose-snow bits but Ade styled it anyway. It was a bit slow traveling in the valleys due to no snow cover but not too bad. Temps were brisk, 10-20F I'd say, but with zero wind it was perfect. There were numerous cool looking smears coming down the granite cirque at the head of the approach valley. I'm sure they're all gone now unfortunately. We didn't summit because we were both pretty tired from lack of fitness and from the added work of the bony approach. The lower cirque with cool smears: Ade starting the main ice:

What things again?

Nice show gents! Looks like you got some fun for sure. In answer to your question, the Thursday before Ade and I had a go at that E Face route on Three Fingers. We found great conditions up there (just like everywhere else at that time!). We did the ice bits but traversed across the NE shoulder without carrying on to the summit, so no route. Several hours later we were heading down the wrong descent drainage (at my suggestion) in the dark. Wrong, as in the nastiest travelling either of us have ever done in the mountains. It was all very purdy though.