dberdinka

I'm certainly no expert but I've done a few that had me crapping in my pants so.... Use pins. They take the expansion out of the flake, try starting with a pin. Use as much clean gear as possible. If you place two pins in a row, placing the second will loosen the first until it pops. If you must place two pins in the row, set the second then clip into it tight with a daisy. Keep pounding. When the first pops the second should hold your weight. Scary! but it works. Use hooks. Sky hooks obviously avoid the flake. Cam hooks fit nice in pin scars and won't pop (at least not as easily)when placing pins above. There is lots of Expando flakes in Squish. The only expando flakes I've climbed at Index were on Golden Arch. Just a few moves but mixed in with sketchy hooking, fixed heads and such it certainly gets the blood flowing!

It will never bail on you. It will never be digging around for another Snickers while you're fiddling around at the crux.

Do you mean they've moved to St George, Utah? I've got family down there too. Snow Canyon State Park is just outside of town. There is some decent climbing there mostly concentrated on one wall, however it faces NW I believe and will probably be shady for most of the day. You might have warm enough weather but I bet it will be on the chilly side. Lots of other sport climbing areas scattered about, some might get more sun exposure. Climbing in Zion will probably be to chilly but just hiking there is well worht it if you haven't been. Darin

I use to use an Epic regularly. If close up focus was not a concern (which it generally isn't) I would set it to it's "spot" meter setting then meter off the blue sky directly opposite the sun with a half push of the button. This seemed to work pretty well.

IS ASS I haven't done a less inspiring route at the pass. The North Ridge on the other hand is sweet, particularly once you get past the start. Figure out an approoach from the west side to avoid some crappy rock on the east side getting to the notch.

Wow! That accident thread seems pretty darn lite compared to threads past.

No. It's Impossible.

Frosty's Clear Alien is a damn handy piece. Nice work, that's a big face! Any luck over the weekend Forrest?

THERE IS AN ENTIRE FORUM DEDICATED TO TAHOMA! You should check it out!

Mike, we all need to chip in and buy you a "Reading for Comprehension" manual.

Among all the inanity of this place, it's good to get some gems of information from time to time. Thanks Scott!

curtveld check your PMs

Well? How did it go?

Thanks for the info Scott. I second that the rock quality is generally very good in the area. I had heard rumors of a "N Ridge of Stuart"-Esque route established by Geoff Childs in the recent past. Should I assume that it's the E Ridge Integral you speak of? For anyone who's interested here is a better quality image of the SE Face of Silver Horn (very foreshortened) with our climb "The Chalice" drawn in. SE Face of Silver Horn

The couloir can be avoided entirely via 4th class gullies to climbers left of it. There are a couple options the easiest and fastest is the one furthest to the left if I recall correctly. 100' of 4th followed by sandy 3rd class to the ridge crest.

That is an excellent TR!

Hello. What condition are the Catamounts/404's in? How is the base? How much use have they seen. Thanks. Darin

That peak on the left bares an uncanny resemblance to a mini-wadd. Also looks like that tower was made out of mud.

2wd low-clearance should have no troubles getting to Trinity. Every winter there is typically enough snow on the ground so that there is a big snowpark right at the Fish Lake turnoff, leaving 24 miles to Trinity then another 4 mile approach on good trail. With a snow mobile getting into that face would be pretty darn casual.

In Peru I used both llamas and burrows to haul my gear into various camps. I never understood the use of llamas. They carry half as much, walk half as slow, require constant proding and cost twice as much! WTF! Then talk about trying to get a load on their back, that was the most dangerous part of the trip. It's always seemed like a great idea for the Pasayten or Wind Rivers but the cost is probably untenably high for people use to doing it on the cheap. It's gotta be what? at least $100 a day a guide, $50 a day an animal. So $300 to get your shit in there and then how are you going to get it back out!? Be cool to hear more first hand experiences.

Snowking via Cyclone Lake looks sweet.

Photo taken 6/18 from near Buck Creek Pass.

Take it to the bedroom you two! Scheeesch

There is no feature in the Beckey Guide named "Silver Tooth" so it's a little inconclusive. Based on Mr Laytons reply to the post Dru linked above I assume Mark did something else over on Snagtooth Ridge. Guess we'll have to wait for Mark to chime in, or is anyone else in Methow Land in the know??