dberdinka

I hear it's a lot easier than it looks. Like 11- with great gear. You should jump on it for the on sight Frosty!

Oh the consternation and outrage!

I HATE AMERICA.... for all the god damn suit-wearing, tubby, half-balding, comb-over fucks commuting half way across the county in their pristine and shiny F350s, Ram 2500s and the occasional Hummer to their friggin office job. Something about those folks really grates me. Why do you hate America......?

Assuming you can get to the end of the road the approach is short on a great trail. Maybe 1.5 hrs to the base of the South Buttress. That road certainly has the potential for washing out in a few sections. Call Valhalla Pure in Nelson.

It's like a little slice of Index transported to Squish.

BulletHeads Someone wanna tell me how to start up this 16 pitch 10a/b linkup Dru was sprayin about??

Thats a fine, fine line. Congratulations.

Victims of hypothermia often times begin shedding their clothing. This isn't the first time that bodies have been recovered in various stages of undress. Your remarks are incredible crass, pathetic really.

I need to get to Spain in a hurry..... Picked up off of rockclimbing.com

I think it's completely understandable that route finding would be difficult using Kramer's latest guide. It does a great job of describing small crags and a horrible job of describing the longer routes.

Those are infact bail slings from climbers who realized they were off route. The "real" third pitch of OS begins about 20' left of the crackline you climbed. What you did is apparently harder, or at least much pumpier.

The UTW aid routes tend not to have consistent size cracks so you don't need a huge rack. A set of micro nuts, a complete set of stoppers, two sets of cams to 2" plus 1 set 2" to 4". 1 cam hook and 1 skyhook are neccessary as well. I've always used a big hook too but I doubt it's essential. Green Drag-On has a lot of pin scars compared to other lines so Aliens, offset brass and camhooks come in very handy.

This is the type of on-line advice I just love. Giving fairly serious advice to someone of unknown abilities about an "easy" day trip you recently did in For what it's worth a majority of climbers tend to climb north side routes from a bivi.

OUCH!

All this back-patting is BS. If your going to climb one of the most popular and classic 5.9's in the state, particularly if your going to do it on a weekend you should be a competent 5.9 climber. Is that so much to ask? By getting on the route full-well knowing you're going to be slow you're negatively impacting the experience of the all the competent climbers who will get stuck sitting on ledges for half the day. Why not climb the route when you ready for it and can do it in good style. There are plenty of other climbs on which to hone you technique or "work out the kinks". Did these guys who aid-sieged the crux pitch two weekends ago really have as positive experience as they could have? Going home with a story of yarding on gear, botching pitches and bottling up the route can't make one feel good about themselves. A few more weeks of dedicated training on other crags would have improved the experience for everyone that weekend. IMO - slow climbers on OS on a weekend suck ballz -- As for rating OS is a relatively soft 5.9 by pre-sport Leavenworth standards.

Huhhh, well at least he tried.

Whats up with the rap anchors about 40' below the ledge at the bottom of the first headwall crack pitch? Also near the top of Orbit where things ease of there is a mystery anchor consisting of two 3/8" bolts off to the left. Who knows what the hell thats for.

At $10 Sport Shirt it is! Thanks for the link. Maybe I'll post a review at some point. Darin

So no shit there I was sitting somewhere on Snow Creek Wall the other day in the shade. It was cold and windy and I thought....Damn I need a wind shirt. Something simple preferrably with a hood light of course abrasion resistant too Make it cheap and fairly water resistant. So I look around the internet and see there are lots of windshirts out there. I hear there's some real experts on the topic around here so I thought I'd ask? Which one should I buy?

I'm of the impression that Doug Klewin was a bad-ass aid climbing mother-f%#ker. If he fell off the fifth pitch does that mean it's friggin terrifying, and what happened to the guy anyway. Still out there crankin?

You're going to die!

The carpent came straight from Katmandu, it's definitely not for sale!

Help me clean the closet! PM me or send an email to ( dberdinka AT yahoo DOT com ). I'll wait a few days and give priority to whomever orders the most. Buyer picks up in B'Ham or pays for shipping $$ amount depends on order quantity. Please note the Metolius and BD cams are cheap because they are generally well used. They are fully functional, just older designs. I've used them as a second or third set of cams for solo-aid climbing, I'd prefer to sell them to someone who'll use them similarly. CAMS Lowe Balls -- #1,#2,#3 plus racking biner -- SOLD BD Camalot Jrs -- #0.5,#0.75 -- SOLD Forged Friends -- #2,#2.5,#3,#3.5 -- $60 -- These will last longer than you, fits 1.125" to 3" cracks an excellent, and light, set of second cams Metolius FCUs -- #1,#2 -- SOLD Metolius TCUs -- TCUs #0,#1,#2,#3,#4 FCU #5 -- SOLD AID GEAR Yates Scream Aids -- 5 brand new -- $35 -- SOLD Lost Arrows -- #4, #5, #6 plus biner -- SOLD BD Ovals -- 20 BD Ovals -- SOLD Miscellaneous Metolius Rope Hook -- $8 includes oval biner Mountain Tools Rope Bag/Pack -- $15 -- A tricked out rope bucket with zipper closer and padded shoulder straps DMM draws -- $18 -- 3 draws with easy to clip big biners BD Hexs -- $30 -- #10,#9,#8,#6,#4 - Old Skool Polish Hardman -- Name your price- velcro mitts not included

I have no clue about the time and expense of llamas but the approach is pretty chill from the Big Sandy. While you're there check out the climbing around Deep Lake (Haystack/Temple/etc) 1/10 the people and just as much climbing.

I got my start climbing with the Olympia Mounties back in the day. I was a 16 year old who probably weighed a 135 lbs. The mounties attract all varieties of people (you've seen the photos ) some of which are packing on a fair number of extra LBs. There was a woman in the class who was LARGE, I guess you gotta give her credit though. Regardless our rock climbing class took place at the choss-errific Cushman Crags in a light but steady drissel. Near the end of the day I found myself belaying this woman using a HIP belay on some dank wet 4th class chimney. Should could not climb it, she will never climb it, it just wasn't going to happen. But for a solid hour she tried and tried and tried doing a fine job of hanging, sliding and falling as I held her on a hip belay with that rope slowly rubbing the sking of my waist. It still hurts.