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dberdinka

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Everything posted by dberdinka

  1. The SW Buttress of Dione is an excellent low-5th class rock climb. Combine it with the standard route on Tantalus for a good day from the Red Tit Hut. The DonSerl-north face route on Alpha was OK. Another good day trip from the hut. If you can figure out the river exit the price of a one-way flight in is worth it. Fly in Day 1, Climb Dione-Tantalus Day 2, Climb Alpha Day 3, Long Hike out Day 4. Beautiful place!
  2. Some of those dudes in FlowMotion are rockclimbers.
  3. Buck Creek Pass to High Pass to the Napeequa Valley is an off-trail backpack through absolutely outstanding scenery. Lots of options and potential summits to hit.
  4. Very doable in a day. The sooner you go the better though as a snow covered approach will save you LOTS of pain, time and suffering.
  5. That's a scary ass story! Glad everyone is OK! It seems that people (me included) are more willing to attempt Cascade ice/mixed routes in much warmer conditions than was once considered acceptably safe. Any old-timers agree? You get away with it 99% of the time...until that 1%.
  6. Recycled = Mitch B. ???????
  7. dberdinka

    slabby!

    I was just thinkin it would have been WAY cooler if Dean had video-soloed this thing. At least then his summit-vibration feeling would have some merit!
  8. dberdinka

    slabby!

    Splitters! Check out the following link though. It would appear that this is not the first such slab to appear and then suddenly collapse! 18-month Time Lapse Photos of crater
  9. dberdinka

    Headhunters

    I don't want you making my Lattes!
  10. Thats $72.99 a barrel. Maybe Chaves will become a profit mongering capitalist whore by year end at those rates?! So whats the reason. Reserves don't meet projections! Regressive socialist nation cannot maintain infrastructure? Let me guess...Let me guess.....
  11. That is straight-up-friggin-cool! Geology in action. Post the link if you got it G-man.
  12. Mythos (at least for me) tend to be very comfortable even when sized tight. The inherent suppleness of the shoe means they will stretch to a near perfect fit (again at least for me). They're the only shoe I regularly climb in from 1-pitch to Grade V .
  13. In Squamish some of the best 5.9 cracks I've climbed are located at the far end of The Papoose. Laid Back is 70' of grunty hands and Mushroom is a sustained thin hand crack. Mercury Vapor looks excellent as well. In the Smoke Bluffs these routes would be more popular than Penny Lane, at the Papoose they go begging for climbers. Check them out.
  14. These days, pretty much every route seems to be getting harder. Maybe it's just me......
  15. Nice work. Post more TRs in the future please. D
  16. I want my $100. Fuckin Idiots.....
  17. Hey, I was just at the grocery store flipping through Climbings-Photo-Edition (99% sport and bouldering shots) and they were interviewing some young hipster who said something like... "Climbers aren't pushing it enough, people in moto-cross expect to go to the hospital once a month, climbers need to develop the same mindset" Maybe core.CC.comers are simply the progessive vanguard of climbers. On the other hand thats pretty much a completely idiotic comment (the quoted one).
  18. I've never been anywhere near there (but I always ment to go!). Regardless here is an interesting tidbit of information I picked up from a crusty old salt. Both the west faces of the northwest peak and the south peak have been climbed. These faces are very visible in the Beckey Guide photo. The NW Pk-W Face was a four pitch 5.10- supposedly good. The S Pk-W Face was also 5.10. Both done in the early 90's. A friend (actually an alcoholic-vegan-cheese thief) did do the 5.6 buttress route to viewers right of the west face and said it was phenomenal.
  19. I was thinking something completely unrelated to this cesspool.
  20. I drove to Squamish Monday morning. It’s about 95 miles one-way. At 20 mpg and $3.10 per gallon we spent about $30 for a day of cragging. Of course the minute we got there two other guys from from B’ham are spilling out of the car that just pulled in next to us. Stupid! I’ve had a thought (really I did!) but I’m not much for actually doing things. This place seems loaded down with techno-climbing geeks maybe one of you should run with this….. ****A carpooling website specifically for climbers.**** : 0 For the general public this would never get off the ground but climbers exhibit some startling common characteristics that might make something like this work; We like to drive long distances for recreation. We like to drive to the same 4 or 5 places. We like to drive to these places on very similar schedules. We like to spray about climbing to every stranger we meet. Of course we tend to do this in groups of two. So set up a website where people could find other climbers to carpool with. Design it around a relational database so that people simply create a profile with their location, their ability to provide transportation and for how many. Then a few days before going cragging you enter the days and locations you want to go climbing. The system finds matches and then sends out e-mails to potential drivers and passengers to coordinate. Create a standardized rule of payment for all users unless the driver agrees to something else. For example 6 cents a mile per passenger or something. Include feedback (much like E-bay) so people could identify creeps, pervs, hippies and stinky people. Get a couple sponsors and a big ‘ole government grant to cover your costs. Or maybe it sounds like a good project for a masters degree? Silly idea!? What do you think.
  21. AAaaaacKKK! Well thank god it wasn't worse! Glad you're (relatively) OK! Welcome to the broken bone club! You'll be back at it come the real summer Gene!
  22. I got lucky in that my work offers Life and AD&D (Accidental Death & Dismemberment) insurance for everyone. Ultimately I have about 8x my salary in coverage. The only activity it doesn't cover (at the moment) is flying small planes. Of course that doesn't help you at all.... So what is the exact definition of "mountain climbing". What If I died in an avalanche while skiing on the side of a mountain, or rockclimbing at Index, or hiking to Camp Muir. Probably something that would play itself out in court.
  23. Anyone living in Chilliwack know what access is like on the Tamihi Creek FSR in winter or spring? Dru, if you don't want to post can you at least PM me? THANKS! D
  24. So how long a rope would I need to do it in two pitches?
  25. One more of the stupendous 400' to 600+' headwall above Craig Lakes.
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