dberdinka

In Squamish some of the best 5.9 cracks I've climbed are located at the far end of The Papoose. Laid Back is 70' of grunty hands and Mushroom is a sustained thin hand crack. Mercury Vapor looks excellent as well. In the Smoke Bluffs these routes would be more popular than Penny Lane, at the Papoose they go begging for climbers. Check them out.

These days, pretty much every route seems to be getting harder. Maybe it's just me......

Nice work. Post more TRs in the future please. D

I want my $100. Fuckin Idiots.....

Hey, I was just at the grocery store flipping through Climbings-Photo-Edition (99% sport and bouldering shots) and they were interviewing some young hipster who said something like... "Climbers aren't pushing it enough, people in moto-cross expect to go to the hospital once a month, climbers need to develop the same mindset" Maybe core.CC.comers are simply the progessive vanguard of climbers. On the other hand thats pretty much a completely idiotic comment (the quoted one).

I've never been anywhere near there (but I always ment to go!). Regardless here is an interesting tidbit of information I picked up from a crusty old salt. Both the west faces of the northwest peak and the south peak have been climbed. These faces are very visible in the Beckey Guide photo. The NW Pk-W Face was a four pitch 5.10- supposedly good. The S Pk-W Face was also 5.10. Both done in the early 90's. A friend (actually an alcoholic-vegan-cheese thief) did do the 5.6 buttress route to viewers right of the west face and said it was phenomenal.

I was thinking something completely unrelated to this cesspool.

I drove to Squamish Monday morning. It’s about 95 miles one-way. At 20 mpg and $3.10 per gallon we spent about $30 for a day of cragging. Of course the minute we got there two other guys from from B’ham are spilling out of the car that just pulled in next to us. Stupid! I’ve had a thought (really I did!) but I’m not much for actually doing things. This place seems loaded down with techno-climbing geeks maybe one of you should run with this….. ****A carpooling website specifically for climbers.**** : 0 For the general public this would never get off the ground but climbers exhibit some startling common characteristics that might make something like this work; We like to drive long distances for recreation. We like to drive to the same 4 or 5 places. We like to drive to these places on very similar schedules. We like to spray about climbing to every stranger we meet. Of course we tend to do this in groups of two. So set up a website where people could find other climbers to carpool with. Design it around a relational database so that people simply create a profile with their location, their ability to provide transportation and for how many. Then a few days before going cragging you enter the days and locations you want to go climbing. The system finds matches and then sends out e-mails to potential drivers and passengers to coordinate. Create a standardized rule of payment for all users unless the driver agrees to something else. For example 6 cents a mile per passenger or something. Include feedback (much like E-bay) so people could identify creeps, pervs, hippies and stinky people. Get a couple sponsors and a big ‘ole government grant to cover your costs. Or maybe it sounds like a good project for a masters degree? Silly idea!? What do you think.

AAaaaacKKK! Well thank god it wasn't worse! Glad you're (relatively) OK! Welcome to the broken bone club! You'll be back at it come the real summer Gene!

I got lucky in that my work offers Life and AD&D (Accidental Death & Dismemberment) insurance for everyone. Ultimately I have about 8x my salary in coverage. The only activity it doesn't cover (at the moment) is flying small planes. Of course that doesn't help you at all.... So what is the exact definition of "mountain climbing". What If I died in an avalanche while skiing on the side of a mountain, or rockclimbing at Index, or hiking to Camp Muir. Probably something that would play itself out in court.

Anyone living in Chilliwack know what access is like on the Tamihi Creek FSR in winter or spring? Dru, if you don't want to post can you at least PM me? THANKS! D

So how long a rope would I need to do it in two pitches?

One more of the stupendous 400' to 600+' headwall above Craig Lakes.

East Side of Three Fingers from near Salish Peak JT starting up the East Face Couloir In the valley of the Mountain Spirits The massive, frothy and thoroughly intimidating icefall at the top of the NE face

Way to get it done and good to meet you. There is a line up the valley there a bit that just might have your name on it.

That would make sense as they absolutely nailed the approach. Did you know there is a fairly good trail leading up to that area? So where in the hell were they?

I would also like to point out that we set a Home-to-TR SPEED RECORD as well in that "Choada Boy" must have posted this TR within 27 seconds of walking through his front door. Way to go Choada Boy! It was a great trip to a beautiful mountain even if we didn't make any summits (Doesn't an FA require reaching the top?). I'll post some photos at some point in time. Big fat lines of much seriousness back there waiting to be done by better climbers than us. Oh..someone had hauled skis up to that area earlier Saturday or maybe Friday. We followed their tracks into our bivi. Didn't see their tracks near the mountain and never saw them but their car was still in the lot when we got back. Who drives a red civic hatchback?

Overhyped Route = Any FA by Michael Layton

Hi Mike Hi Marcus Hi Gene Nice photos and good job!

I have to see you in person? Make it 76 bucks.

I once had a dream. I can't really remember what is was anymore, other than that it's gone now. All this gear is essentially unused. 9 copperheads in various sizes (unused) 2 BD peckers (1 has been placed) 1 BD Rurp (unused) 1 BD Cliffhanger (filed and unused) 4 Leeper Camhooks (middle sizes used lightly) I'll sell the lot of it for $66+shipping I also have a Fish Captain Hook. I've used it a fair bit but it should last at least another 500 years. Burly. $20+shipping to whomever writes the best 50 word essay and posts it here. Please PM me.

Both item SOLD

Bumped off the bottom of page 3. Whats up!?

Help me clean out my closet. Feathered Friends Volant jacket in excellent condition. Constructed of Gore Dryloft fabric. I had a seamstress add a removable (zippered) Moonstone down-filled hood. Size Large! $100. It looks like this except it royal blue and has a hood…. Bibler Big Wall Bivi Sack. I bought this when I thought I was gonna be an alpine-climbing-bigwall-sicko.....It never happened. It’s been used a whopping two nights that I can remember. I don’t think it’s ever felt rain. Retails for $220. Your for $140. PM or e-mail at dberdinka_AT_yahoo_DOT_com

Sweet! The pillar looks fat, sounds like more perfect conditions this coming weekend. Any chance you've got a good photo of the Polish Route? How was the glacier travel? Thanks Darin