dbconlin

Chair Peak is in. More mixed/alpine than ice per se, 3rd pitch of the NF route is a little hairy right now.

My memory tells me (and I am not going to look it up right now) that the data REI publishes indicated that an XGK is slightly quicker and more fuel efficient than a Whisperlite. I don't think the difference is great or warrants purchasing a new stove. One of the main advantages of the XGK is its incredible simplicity. You can take apart and troubleshoot the stove with minimal tools and time. Therefore it seems to ALWAYS work. I think you can do it with the whisperlite, too, but it is a little more complicated/more parts. I think the weakest link is the fuel pump. If you mess it up, you could be out of luck. For canister stoves, one thing you can try in order to streamline your fuel/person dilemma is weigh your canisters. The 'tare weight' is listed on the side of most and you can easily figure out how much fuel you actually used. I've found that a JetBoil works very well even in cold/wind/altitude if you cook inside the tent. I would definitely use one for winter climbing, but you must cook inside so plan accordingly. This keeps wind out and warms the tent, thereby warming the canister.

no.

HA HA ha ha...

While climbing yesterday, my fingers became very very cold. When I got to the end of the pitch, I took off my gloves and put my hands in my armpits to warm them. My partner had some opened handwarmer packets, which he offered and I accepted. Holding one in each hand, it quickly became obvious they were too hot. I gave them back and continued warming my hands in my armpits. Seemed to go well. In about five minutes, feeling had fully returned and I felt good to go. I had no more problems the rest of the day. But when I got in my car to drive, I noticed that one of my fingertips did not have full feeling. So, is this frostnip? frostbite? Are there any concerns about future performance of my digit in cold conditions? Will full feeling return? Any personal experiences or medical know-how would be appreciated. Thanks.

There is a feature story in the latest Rock & ICe regarding recovery from tennis elbow. They recommend a number of excercises to re-train the arm movements. Worth checking out.

I have never known a bivy sack that you could not fit a sleeping pad inside. Don't know bout that REI minimalist.

I have the winter bivy. It is definitely more of an emergency sack or a sleeping bag cover for relatively good weather or an additional layer inside a tent. Not for full on living in. I think it is a great choice, though, for very light climbing applications. Keeps the snow off your bag, very breathable, and light (and inexpensive!). It is not hard to crawl in - I just but it over my sleeping bag and crawl in them together, then (optionally) pull the hood over. The epic fabric is NOT waterPROOF - I would not recommend this as your primary shelter if rain is even a possibility. More of a 'winter' bivy...

there is a reason the nine.9 is the most common one out there. I tried on a lot before I bought it and it was the best.

Well, my shoulder was sore before the ride, but yes it was probably the combination. My PTist acknowledged the problem with riding posture, but seemed to indicate that the driving force was probably excessive strain due to pullups. My shoulder has pretty much fully recovered by following the PTs advice.

I agree with most of what is being said. I think the media hypes climbing-related rescues way out of proportion. Part of the reason is because the average person can't conceive of why someone would 'waste' their time doing it and take such 'unnecessary risks'. On the other hand, hunting/fishing culture is much more established in our society and people don't see it as the same kind of futile self-absorbing activity for some reason. Same for tourism, nature-enjoying, hiking, etc. Not the same kind of perceived 'risk'. That said, I wouldn't mind seeing a climbing rescue insurance kind of thing like they purportedly have in Europe. I know it probably wouldn't work here, though. But if it did, no one could say sh!t about us not covering our own @sses. It should not be mandatory though, lest we inadvertently set up an economic criteria for climbing on public lands or something. hmmm.

I was doing a couple sets of pullups once a day, almost every day, for a week, after an extended period 'on the couch'. Then, I went for a mountain bike ride. On the drive to the TH, I noticed some soreness/twinging in my shoulder just from steering the car. I went anyway and during the course of my ride (difficult climbing, occasional falling and bracing off my arms) my arm became very very sore. I cut the ride short, but the downhill ride back to the car was very unpleasant. The next day, I could not lift my arm out in front or to the side above shoulder level without pain. I went the doctor, he injected me with cortizone and told me I must maintain range of motion. He referred me to physical therapy. The PT gave me some excersizes that mostly involved moving my arm through range of motion in different directons and some strengthening using resistance bands. So, it kind of started slowly, but was a suddenly noticable thing when I couldn't lift my arm. I don't know what would have happened if I had never went for that bike ride.

third.

I guess that is why I forgot where it is!!! Never went back a second time. Went to the new thai place mai lee this eve. Pretty good, but not stellar.

My bad you are right. I was going off of memory - should have googled it first. Totally, if you enjoy both, go for it. I simply do not enjoy very much most bourbons I have tasted. Granted I have not tried perhaps some of the finer bourbons, just the widely available ones.

I work with GPS/GIS professionally quite a bit and have not felt that they would help me in the backcountry significantly enough to justify the 1) expense and 2) weight/bulk. That is in part due to my confidence in map/compass skills and in part due to the hassle of getting good satellite geometry and accuracy with GPSes. It also absorbs more time in the field (that could otherwise be spent making progress on the route) than I am willing to give a tool that improves my navigation only negligibly. That said, I would recommend newcomers to be very comfortable with map and compass. Then, if you want to add GPS capability, make sure you know how to use the damn thing. I have been on trips with people who tended to rely too heavily on GPS and obviously did not really know what they were doing. That is not the right approach.

I second that!!! Isn't Makers Mark Canadian Whiskey...not bourbon Jameson is Irish Whiskey I believe...not bourbon Bourbon isn't really very good anyway. Neither are Canadian or Irish Whiskeys. Scotch is the way to go. Relatively inexpensive blended scotch: J&B Really friggin good scotch (if you like the smoky/peaty Islay varieties): Laphroaig or Talisker Gotta get a titanium flask to put it in, though. Some bourbons come in plastic.

What about 'the Thai Restaurant' near Miller/Chelan Ave (I forget exactly)?

Jesus christ am i tried of hearing this phrase on everything. This is a commonly used strategy by those who have absolutely nothing to say, yet want to boost their post count. I agree, it is tired. BEST ALBUMs i've been listening to in '06: Bobby Bare Jr - The Longest Meow (2006; alt-pop-country, but good) Ryan (not Bryan) Adams & the CArdinals - Cold Roses (2006; jam-tinged alt-country, but good) Mofro - Lochloosa (2004; soulful blues w/ a little rock, but good) Black Keys - Chulahoma (2006; straight up blues w/ edge, but good)

The advantage to living west of the mtns is more culture and a milder climate (but more rain too). East of the cascades, it is hard to find a very cool city. There are some nice small towns, though and cost of living is much lower. I would highly recommend Twisp, real vibrant local community w/ artists and a good brew pub too. Close to lots of x-c skiing or backcountry, not too far from a small lift served ski area. Some local rock and ice climbing and of course the north cascades mtns. Downside is its pretty remote, especially in winter when the north cascades highway (20) is closed. Also be prepared for LOTS OF SNOW. For a more centrally located east of mtns town, try Ellensburg. Home to Central Wash U., smallish kind of nice town. Not too far from Yakima for bigger town needs and only 1.5 hrs to Seattle. 1/2 hr. from Blewett pass or snoqualmie pass, near vantage/columbia basin and not too far from leavenworth/icicle canyon/stuart range. but there are COWS.

Nice job guys, Children of the Sun looks really sweet. Who's gonna lead that?

I think if you descend a classic after ascending a harder classic, that should count for both. That way you can do two at once... and maybe it will enable wayne to get his adams routes out of the way and john to get down the dc.

Leavenworth, 7501 Icicle Road: High yesterday exceeded 40 degF 7am today 33 degF

Thanks! How can I hook up with you? Where at Banks Lk.?