dbconlin

That is the same bike I ride, too. Love it. Someone buy this bike.

sounds like quite a physical effort! congrats on perservering and getting to the top. next time i crave chips and salsa on an outing, I will remember the duct tape method. sweet.

Oh? Too bad neither is as waterproof as PVC. But I'm not wearing that either.

Because you've climbed a load of pitches with them or because you believe the hype? I would have to say the latter... But seriously, ok, (having not climbed them), I would say both tools will be heavier than either of the P-C tools mentioned. No one can tell (without climbing them anyway) whether they will perform as awesomely as quarks, but I have high hopes, based on experience with other bd tools. And, yeah [the hype] on the surface, anyway, they look more in line with what I would want and I really like bd head and pick designs and i like that you can clip an umbilical right into the spike, even with the fang/horn/thing. besides if colin has been using them (???) they must be good right?

Fun times, great route... I don't think we had any real ice on it last week... lucky you.

pics? nice job.

What time of year are you guys talking about? Just curious because I might be interested in some of these routes.

they will be better.

I just wanted to add this photo, of Scott at the summit of Colchuck, and say thanks to AlpineDave for his Gu recipe (here), which I tested on this trip (it turned out great, BTW, although some of it ended up all over my clothes):

there were heavy equipment tracks in the vicinity of the washout when we were there on sunday, but it did not look like they had made any real progress...

second for patagonia (super) guide pants. and you don't need a shell to go over them, either.

There was no gear on the NBC. We didn't bring rope, rack, harnesses, nothing. The only photo from NBC was the very last one, near the summit. Cheers to Scott for leading that mixed pitch at the top of the NE Couloir on D-tail. It would definitely be a 'character-building' pitch to lead! Good times...

You are a fine photographer. Thanks for sharing. Cheers!

Way to persevere through the various 'hardships'! Looks/sounds a little more challenging than when i did it about a year ago (maybe a little later in the season...?). My partner (scottgg) did it car to car that time, while i (thankfully) slept the night before at the lake and I definitely did not envy him! Once again, way to go!

uhh, i don't get how your suggestion of an 8 to your harness through a carbiner in the anchor makes it adjustable. no matter how you look at it, a figure 8 is not adjustable. please explain.

My understanding that you can overcome this by always clipping into the ends. Once you've done this then you can reclip one biner into a midpoint in the daisy. Black Diamond had a video about this a while back. The important thing is to never clip the end AND a pocket with the same biner, because then the only thing holding you to the anchor is bar tacking. You can also remove this concern by tying a knot at the far end just before the anchor biner. But, at least in theory if difficult in practice, you can remedy this by putting a twist in the daisy. Right?

Looking for someone to go skiing with in the B/C this weekend. Can do either sat or sun, but only one day. prefer not to drive too far. Haven't done much around here so open to suggestions. Pm me. Dave

Grivel makes the best anti-bots. Period.

Man this MX hoody is well loved. Why is there little love for the Alpha Comp. It's 4oz lighter, waterproof just on the shoulders (where moisture sits). Jedi The Alpha Comp Hoody is one or the other - hardshell or not. Having a jacket that is half hard and half softshell is like having a vehicle that is the front half of a Porsche and the back end of a F-150. No it is like having a Subaru instead of a Porsche and a F-150.

looks like it is missing one of the walls...might leak.

Tua Mega MX size 175. Old school but lightweight. Decent condition. "not bad skis" make an offer.

This is a size 10 women's (=medium) 650-fill down jacket with the conduit SL water-resistant membrane. It has been very lightly used (less than 10x) with no signs of wear. It comes with a hood. Weighs 26 oz. Retails for $240. Asking $150. PM me if interested. From Mountain Hardwear website:

La Sportiva Trango Extreme boots, from a few years ago when they were all leather. These boots have only been used on 1 short trip. These are the yellow ones and they are insulated with Thinsulate and the soles can take a full step-in crampon. Used only one time. $175/obo. PM me if interested or for photos.

gamma mx would be more of a winter softshell, a little warmer, and therefore not as versatile. probably excellent for ice climbing though. patagonia fig. 4/ready mix are in my opinion the perfect softshell. very versatile. very breathable. moderate stretch. minimally insulative. very quick drying. as light as soft shells get. durable. minimal. hood or no hood. very weather repellent. don't know much about the others.

I have a BCA Alp 40. It is designed for skiing, but I use it on alpine day trips alot and like it. It is fairly light. Worth checking out in my opinion.