dbconlin

I spent an entire summer backpacking through that part of the park, mostly off-trail and cross-country, for a job. Unfortunately, I did not carry a camera. Thanks for bringing back those memories.

somebody go! bolivia rules! (sorry I can't)

I love my winter bivy. but I would not bring it if rain was in the forecast (or even a possibility). But for a little extra wind/warmth and light to moderate snow showers, it works fine and it is hard to beat the weight (9 oz).

Thanks for all the input. I am not going to jump on the BD sale. Right now I would be most likely looking at Grivel AirTech LIghts. Anyone know of these on sale anywhere?

Johngo- I agree with you some of the time. In winter I usually do not carry a 'hydration system'. However, I have a few quibbles with some of your points (and on summer alpine climbs and for backpacking I often DO carry such a system). 1. I am not an adventure racer, but the countless times you would have to remove your pack to get a drink (if the water bottle is inside) would add up and I am often trying to be relatively fast. 2. Some of your points would be valid if you ONLY carry a camelback (hard to fill, use for in-camp, drying socks???). On trips when I have a camelback I ALWAYS have a lightweight bottle, too (mostly to address said issues above). 3. I HATE having a water bottle clipped to me bouncing around on the trail (and yes I have tried the 1/2 liter small bottles). Also, using said system is NOT AS EASY as a camelback, for which you need not even stop. So, in hot weather especially, I find I am better hydrated and it is more convenient to use a CamelBak. That isn't to say you should, or anyone else should. It is personal preference, but don't discount the idea if it works for you. One more point against camelbacks: most systems are much, much heavier than a water bottle.

I really haven't used the large BDs (4+), but I really love my WC flex friend in the size comparable to BD 4 and would buy same again. It seems very light (for size) and stable, the action is smooth and the trigger is easy to use. Now that BD redesigned their cams (C4s) though I would take another look at those. I guess that doesn't really help much. Oh well. blah blah...

wow. what a way to finish the climb. we had similar conditions last year, but somehow managed to make the steeper steps high on the route without the clusterf**k you mention. I guess all the teams that time had different timing. our descent went much smoother too. yours sounds like quite an adventure. and hape at 12,000' - that can't be too common. interesting. You mentioned the russians rapping the emmons crevasses...is that glacier in bad condition this year? last year it was a cruise down.

Some tips if you have trouble with your stove in harsh conditions: 1. insulate the canister. don't place it on the snow. 2. cook inside the tent. yeah, really. no wind, much warmer. 3. haven't tried this, but house recommends the msr stove with the flexible hose that attaches to the canister; when the fuel is low, turn the can upside down to increase effeciency (?)

Which are the best? The bd ones are on sale. Are these good? Any firsthand experience or conjecture? Compared to Camp XLA 390 or the Stubai ones? Any others? Thanks.

mk1 xl.

I often use one collapsible water bottle and one gatorade style bottle when trying to go light. I recently had a collapsible bottle (nalgene) spring a leak on the seam and had to use only the gatorade bottle for the rest of the trip. inconvenient but not incapacitating. fortunately, the nalgene collapsible bottles carry lifetime leak warranties, so simply return for new. It had lasted the better part of two years of fairly regular use. FYI (based on memory, but should be close, these are weighed on a kitchen food-type digital scale): Nalgene Lexan: 6.5 oz Nalgene collabsible: 2.5 oz Gatorade: 3.5 oz

Me too, one tool, one axe, one ski pole (collapsible), was perfect, although later in the season. My partner had two tools and had no complaints, either. I don't think it really matters.

Anyone? Anyone at all out there? Seriously, though, nice effort. Now you will have some route familiarity if you go back and it definitely sounds like you are gaining some valuable experience. I went to Rainier Memorial Day weekend last year to try the Ptarmigan Ridge route and we had nothing but pure whiteout/blizzard conditions the whole time (we bailed on second day, had allowed 4 days). We were navigating by map and compass and very limited visibility the whole time. Tough time of year to try Rainier. Hopefully you will gain some more skills in navigation in whiteout conditions, which can definitely come in handy on the bigger peaks (or lesser ones, too).

I love aliens. I have red, yellow, green, blue. Place red and yellow most often, fall on green most often. I am really bummed about the recent issues. I really want to buy more of them (replacement yellow and the new grey), but am concerned about quality. For now, I will wait. I hate the TCUs/Power Cams and definitely won't buy those. Don't know what else would do. Maybe Tech Friends or C4s (both of which I like in larger sizes).

Word has it (and I can't give any reference, unfortunately), that canister stoves work poorly at cold temps, but perform better at high altitudes. I am not sure why that would be. Steve House uses one in the Himalaya, for what that is worth.

Beal Joker, Mammut Serenity, or the like would be the most versatile rope in my opinion. 60m would do.

I climbed 3 or 4 times this past year with Brian. I don't think we ever successfully got up a climb together, but we always had a blast. I will miss him greatly. Goodbye, friend. My condolences also to his young wife (Jessica, I think?). I think they had been married less than a year. So sad. Here he is an an attempt at Mt. Kent this past winter:

Directissimo! That looks way better than last year...

Heck yeah! Stuart NW face (and you guys) rule!!!

sounds like quite a physical effort! congrats on perservering and getting to the top. next time i crave chips and salsa on an outing, I will remember the duct tape method. sweet.

Oh? Too bad neither is as waterproof as PVC. But I'm not wearing that either.

Because you've climbed a load of pitches with them or because you believe the hype? I would have to say the latter... But seriously, ok, (having not climbed them), I would say both tools will be heavier than either of the P-C tools mentioned. No one can tell (without climbing them anyway) whether they will perform as awesomely as quarks, but I have high hopes, based on experience with other bd tools. And, yeah [the hype] on the surface, anyway, they look more in line with what I would want and I really like bd head and pick designs and i like that you can clip an umbilical right into the spike, even with the fang/horn/thing. besides if colin has been using them (???) they must be good right?

Fun times, great route... I don't think we had any real ice on it last week... lucky you.

pics? nice job.

What time of year are you guys talking about? Just curious because I might be interested in some of these routes.