rayborbon

I ski but not avidly or skillfully and find both sites interesting. Nice work guys.

Erik munster you are killing me

Oh just curious if you did know him. Some guy I met in Lillooet last month. I would like to just say hi is all. Later Dru.

What happened Alex you removed your post?? Did ya step on your dick again? Hey Dru , Do you know Jason Shea at all? [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-28-2001).]

Colin, Mr Good Time would know. -Ray

Very well said Erik.

oops posted twice [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-27-2001).]

I disagree ecoli-monster (Odwalla?) about your comments on the LaFuma42. It is a great deal in my opinion. You get a lot of room and it climbs well on your back without getting in the way. The one I have costs 99$ and is comfortable for me climbing on ice. I can put my crampons on the sides as well as ski poles too. 2 axe loops as usual. I used to have an Osprey that was twice the price now I know better... The fabric is super durable when compared to other hyped up brands. Look at the wear material on the bottom.. I like it. With all that it is very light too. Plus ask Rafael for a second opinion too. Raf doesn't you or your wife have one?? -Ray [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-27-2001).]

I was not on Honeyman but spoke to Fred Beckey and he was headed up there on Sunday. If you can find him ask him about it. I know he scouted it on Saturday. Fred may be hard to find though... -Ray

Right on!! Rumors say, the climbers from the US are better sometimes and even steal the new routes (not Alberta but L. Knight is always talking about the Yanks ). However I know that there are plenty of gurus up there. Sounds like a hard route too. Maybe one day I will get that good.... For now I will dream about this route. Mike, have fun up there yourself! -Ray

Jordan, You are the biggest bum I know! You'll have to let me know about your trip. I envy you! Later on.. -Ray

Braggart.. BTW I don't think I would use those as tools of choice on low angle stuff.. [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-20-2001).]

shrink em to 10.5 and I'll buy em.

From a previous post by me look at these: Not one of the 2 mentioned but not to be overlooked if you are looking for a tool. My friend recently purchased Dmm Flys and really likes them (I am jealous). You can still bash the knuckles on steeper 4-5 ice. However the pick seems to be solid. The parts between the pick and hammer on top is ergonomic for alpining. The grip is great and rubberized only where you need it and they are extremely light. Not too specialized for Waterfalls is what I like.. Some tools I find do not perform as well on lower angle ice like Grivel Top Machine and Quarks and other radically bent shafts... However that might be what you want. The pick also releases easier than most if you overdrive it. The price cannot be matched for the value you get in my opinion. -Ray

My comments were not there to say I had a foolproof system by any means... I just wanted to let others think about what they are doing... It is easy to criticize my situation and all so go ahead if you feel compelled to. It was not intended for every person on the web to sit and criticize (especially when they don't know *&*& about what I setup etc.) It was there to raise a flag and say check yourself out and think. I have made many errors in climbing and still do. The key is to learn without getting whacked! Or to possibly learn from others. If you can't take my advice as it is and instead read into it as some joke or mishap you would never make then too bad I guess. I don't think I need a new system anymore. I just solo without a rope instead and stay on easy ground. BTW I never soloed ice either. If you feel the need to fuss take it offline with me I'm sure we would get along since I am capable of being one of the best smart asses around.. If not we could slam some beer together and duke it out. Or perhaps a good ole beer drinking contest too. -Ray [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-20-2001).]

I think it goes around M7.. But when the ratings get that hard how can one tell unless they do it. I think the climbablility of the route changes throughout the season making it harder or if you could say it "less difficult". When you climb it let us all know eh! Lyle? -Ray [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-19-2001).]

Looking for any approach\route info on this peak. First hand if possible not the Beckey book quotes or anything. -Ray [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-19-2001).]

In all due respect to both Casey\others and the injured individual maybe we should not speculate any further on this matter... Learning from others' mistakes is ok but let's not do it in a public forum and about a local climber that is still in the hospital when all the facts are not clear. Perhaps this is a converstion to take offline if you still desire more hearsay etc. -Ray

It all depends on your system....

Thanks dude, I love this stuff! Good deal.

IMHO, they ALL freeze along the tube or along the mouthpieces when it gets cold enough. I have dubbed them as of I think it was November (early) while on a ski trip as only summer equipment. You may be setting yourself up for failure otherwise. I understand they are a great idea and have one myself although not the exact setup you mention Colin.. Trust me when it gets cold even your water bottles will freeze. If it is a short few hour trip you may get by though. My opinion is that if gear fails once in winter then I can the idea because that is the difference between failure and success many times. I don't like to second guess my gear in winter, period. Let me know if anyone has other experiences under trying (long periods of exposure to cold) circumstances. The only thing I would guess that may remedy is carrying it close to your body to gather the necessary heat. BTW I have the sucking valve and biting ones and they both have frozen. -Ray [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-16-2001).]

Colin, I have plans this weekend but may go next drop me a line if you are in. -Ray

I just want to put in my 2 cents about solo devices... I have used them in the past but definitely don't rely on them. Once MikeAdam double checked my setup with a mere TR on Portland area crag a few years back and I climbed up 20 feet and decked out after a fall from the crux of the climb. It hurt my feet more than anything. I learned the easy way that they are not foolproof. It seems that the biner connecting from my harness somehow actually unlocked the device allowing me to fall. Be careful with these things and remember they may not be or are not foolproof. From the sound of things it may be that he may have not even had the device on yet.. But that does not mean that what happened to me could not happen to someone else. Please be careful about your systems. It is nothing but a tragedy when something like this happens. I hope this person recovers. -Ray

Hahah! They work great but not with some adjusting to the boots I have I guess. I need to do some more investigating

Reliable source says that there was a large fracture line in the snow from the NE Buttress of Chair across and underneath the N Face 2 days ago. Possibly going all the way to Nov. snowline...