rbw1966

Priapism (spinal injury?) is right about spot on. Took us a little less than 5 hours a couple of weeks ago. We only took about 5 cams and a set of stoppers though. Oops--that was for the west ridge. YMMV.

quote: Originally posted by Off White: quote:Originally posted by rbw1966: quote:Originally posted by sexual chocolate: . . (or from The Supersuckers). . . The greatest rock and roll band in the world! Well, except for Dead Moon...In the spirit of name-dropping, I thought I'd spray that I used to be friends with Andrew of Dead Moon fame. Haven't talked to him since I stopped working in a bar though (i.e. free beer). The whisky on the drum is cool no matter how many times I see it.

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: . . (or from The Supersuckers). . . The greatest rock and roll band in the world! Rob "Creepy Jackalope Eye"

I've tried it a couple of times in the fall. We found the bergschrund to be challenging to surpass as we had to descend into it then climb the other side. Took considerably longer than we expected to, so we bailed rather than be pins in the bowling alley. You can bring rock pro but I'd imagine it to be more psychological than useful. Skiing on snowdome was worth the effort though. I think this is a route I'll save for the winter. good luck and let me know how conditions are when you get there. Seems the glacier is indeed receeding.

Hells Canyon: just on the idaho side from Halfway (or is it still half.com?) and upriver are a number of sport routes you can view from the campground. As mentioned before, no crowds, nice limestone and tons of routes. Since I was last there I heard its been developed extensively with a guidebook rumored to be on the way.

Didn't say that. Didn't say I don't support their activities in other areas either--just that I am not a member because they don't do anything here. Then again, I don't hear a lot about the Access Fund working in Washington or Alaska which are a couple of the "other" areas I do climb at. I tried to get involved with them on the Madrone closure. Sure, they'll say they are working on it but the evidence speaks for itself: no activity in several years.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: why the hell aren't you already a member? Because they don't do shit in Oregon.

I'm running the Hood to Coast this weekend. CC.com might wanna think about putting together a team for next year. Also, there is the Pole-Peddle-Paddle in Bend that would be fun.

I was up there a couple weeks ago and although there was still a bit of snow up there, you can get within about 50 feet of the wall before having to walk on any of it. I did it in approach shoes and it was pretty casual. My partner was wearing tevas.

Doesn't a hook move bring it up to an ass-clenching A1? Don't forget to check out Beacon Rock if you want minimal approach and some very nice trad climbing from 5.6 on up. Also, there is French's Dome (to be avoided on the weekends) for sport, Pete's Pile, Lambertson Butte (chossy) and Horsethief Butte for some bouldering fun. Have fun

One of my favorite posts of all time on rec.climbing: To find out if ice climbing is for you, 1. Ask, read, and loose as much sleep as possible wondering what style of ice gear is right for you. 2. Bring you VISA card to your closest climbing store and spend all of next year's disposable income on equipment that somebody in rec.climbing recommended based on hearsay. 3. Hide the gear at home and try to control the fear that the thought of "your wife finding out that you just spend $3K that you didn't have" will bring to your heart. 4. Using a 10 lbs. frozen sea bass, smash the backside your fingers until you can't hold the frozen carcass any longer. 5. In front of an open refrigerator, strip to your underwear, place 10 or 12 ice cubes around your testicles, poor a gallon of cold water over your head, and repeat "Man... This is f*cking great!". 6. Tie yourself to a massive object just under the balconies of your local retirement home, display a sign that reads "Safe my future... Reduce Social Security benefits now!", and try to survive the barrage of large hurling objects coming your way. 7. Ask your neighbor to tie his Rottweiler with a shoelace at the other side of a 4 foot fence. Smack the dog a couple of times and repeat "If the string breaks, the fence will hold him back... the fence will hold... the fence will hold..." 8. Call-in thick Friday morning. Jump in the car with a couple of guy with questionable personal hygiene and drive for 13 hours strait. Get our of the car, realize that there is no ice to be climbed and return home feeling still exited about the prospects for ice climbing the next weekend. 9. Find out, from your new friends, that half of the gear that you bought in step #2 is really worthless and that "...only 'Posers' buy that stuff". and finally, 10. Over a romantic dinner, tell your wife that she will be on-her-own for Thanksgiving, X-mas, New Year's, Martin Luther King Day, and Presidents' Day, because you will be driving "up-north" with "the guys". If you can satisfy the requirements stated above, ice climbing may be for you. In that case see http://www.erols.com/espina/Climbing/ for some inspiration

I'll second the kudos for adjustable daisies. I love 'em. I still use a fifi to pull in real close though.

I bought a set of the metolius adjustable aiders. Used them a couple of times and don't like them for aiding. Its too difficult to get your feet out of them when transitioning to your other aiders if you are using the 4-aider setup. Even harder getting your foot back in. However, they work great for jugging since you can lock your foot into the stirrup.

Turns out its unlikely I'll be able to make it tonight. Lisa--I didn't climb Denali. We were there to do the SE Ridge of Foraker but turned away when we saw the route condition. Made a feeble attempt at the West Ridge of Hunter but were thwarted by too deep, too soft snow. I don't have any pictures but my partner has slides. I have some pics from my climb of Denali in '99 but they are buried.

I'm game for a beer after work. Name a time and place.

I agree with Iain about that floor at Crystal. Every moron in town has jumped up and down on that surface and usually next to me--as if keeping my hand steady as I swill beer isn't hard enough. McMenamins beer sucks too, but thats a different rant.

I made the mistake of getting the small one. It doesn't hold much but it does hold the "essentials" and I am sure you know what those are. There are in fact gear loops on it which is a good thing because the pack itself covers up the rear gear loops on the harness I attached it to.

Still looking for a partner for Smith or ? for this weekend. Email me.

quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: Trad in Portland Bouldering in Oregon I've heard tell there is no climbing in Portland, in which case Bend and all its majesty is 3 hours away; less with smooth traffic and a heavy foot. Its not entirely correct to say there is "no" climbing in Portland although what is actually within the city limits (Rocky Butte) is not all that great as has already been pointed out. My biggeset problem with the Butte isn't so much the garbage or people (it used to be a LOT worse) but the highway noise. If you are very far from your belayer you will scream yourself hoarse trying to communicate in various areas. Good time to practice those rop-tug signals? I'm a bit confused though Michael. You mention climbing Yocum but then you say you arent interested in mountaineering. Yocum sure seemed like mountaineering when I was on it. Be that as it may, the North Cascades is quite a haul from Portland for just a weekend but I've done it for three day weekend trips several times. Smith is relatively convenient and absolutely a good weekend climbing destination year-round. There's challenging rock to be climbed on Illumination, Steel Cliffs, Pete's Pile, French's Dome, Broughton's etc. Beacon is a great place to climb to get that crack fix. Pick up a copy of Portland Rock Climbs (new edition) for more information. Vantage and Tieton are pretty close too. I have a buddy in Yakima I visit once in a while and its just about as far to the Tieton River from my house as Smith. Portland's a great place to be for mountaineering as well. You're within a few hours of Adams, Jefferson, the Sisters, Hood, St. Helens, Rainier, etc. Hope this helps.

I got an excuse: the Rock Bottom's beer sucks ass. But, since its only a few blocks from my office I will try and make it.

I may make it to the swilling tonight but if not--does anyone want to go to Smith (or any other rock destination within reason) this weekend? I'll drive. Email me if your game.

quote: Originally posted by Alasdair: yes they were on the SE Ridge. I shot the two pictures below in May The ridge looks pretty strait forward except for the Heinous ice fall about 1/3 of the way up. I have not seen a picture of it looking this broken up before. I am sure it is much worse now. That route is fairly well known for avi danger. RBW do you have any more recent pictures of the route? Specifically the icefall section. I am hopeing to climb this next year. http://www.nwclimber.com/climbing/trips/hunter2002/Scan70.jpg http://www.nwclimber.com/climbing/trips/hunter2002/Scan71.jpg I personally don't have any pics at all yet. My partner does and I can check with him. I can tell you that when we were there the route looked WAY worse than your pics indicate. The lower third below the icefall was bare rock the entire way and there were hanging glaciers towering right above the fall line. If you want more detailed information feel free to email me. Its a great line and I was pretty bummed that it was messed up already. Conditions in late May of this year were worse (i.e. melted) than when I left Kahiltna in early July, 1999. Incredible.

We went to Foraker a couple weeks ago to do the SE Ridge and it was in heinous condition. Sultana didn't look much better. My bet is on the SE ridge in this case. Truly a tragedy of horrendous scale. My brother was killed in an accident when I was 17 and my mom went to pieces. My heart goes out to their family. Someone once said something along the lines of "its a tragedy when a parent outlives a child."

There's a parking lot at Mt. Washington now?

Bring some sunscreen. A bit late in the season no? It was opening up BIG time when I was there 2 weeks ago.