rbw1966

quote: Originally posted by jules: Do we count Batso's passing as the 3rd incident, though? If so, then we're done, if, as erik states, these things happen in 3's. I'm not sure you can count "liver failure" as an accident. "Honest, I didn't mean to drink that gallon of Mogan David." Harding is my hero.

quote: Originally posted by imorris: I have never used the cat, but I think the requirement was an MLU, not a beacon. The snow cat costs $100, whether 1 person or 10 people ride. You can pre-arrange a pickup at the alpine lodge. It will eliminate that slog up the Palmer snowfield. They require that you have either an MLU OR a cell phone. I'd recommend the phone over the MLU. You can't order a pizza with an MLU.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: aintchu guys ever heard of bollards? Well Dru old boy, I'll let you come on down to Yocum and construct all the bollards you want. It pains me to leave my shiny gear behind. Perhaps I wasn't clear on the conditions: the snow was soft and shallow with a thin upper crust. My partner weighed in at a svelt 250 or so and I at a dainty 190. Bollards crossed my mind for about .001 second. My life is worth more than $20.

quote: Originally posted by Zenolith: you the shit man. As a matter of fact, I did have to change my underwear after we rapped off onto the Reid. If anyone wants some booty, there are two pickets on the fall line coming down the south flank of Yocum below the first gendarme. Bring some rock pro if you plan to retrieve them. You'll need it.

A friend of mine and I made an attempt on Yocum Ridge yesterday. Got about a third of the way up the first gendarme before a very unexpected storm rolled in and we rappelled to the Reid Glacier. We got caught in a whiteout on the descent from Illumination Saddle. Route conditions were excellent until the gendarme, then we faced soft, shallow snow with a thin crust and bare, choosy rock. Protection was almost non-existent. Be prepared for high exposure, lots of ice and snow falling, scant pro and a long day. Leuthold Couloir, Sandy Headwall and surrounding routes were all in excellent condition. light rockfall.

quote: Originally posted by gregm: the nuge posts on a telemarktips.com. i think this is interesting in relation to the "where are the greats" thread. http://www.telemarktalk.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?topic=322&forum=1 So does Michael Jackson and Rick Derringer. Check out the entire thread. Rob

quote: Originally posted by trask: What's your excuse genius? The fact that you couldn't pass the bar? I rarely pass a bar. I almost always have to stop and get a drink. But I'd rather chew off my arm then be a lawyer. Tighty-whiteys all bunched up today? Hmmm? Sorry if I offended you Trask old boy. Just having fun. Rob

quote: Originally posted by trask: Now that I'm 14 years old and wiser. . .[ 02-14-2002: Message edited by: trask ] This explains a lot.

Freshies? I dont want to see no shots of freshies. Hell, I try and cover them up unless I am really trying to piss someone off then I'll leave a freshie right on the hood of their fucking car. Speaking of gremlins, I hear crack addict drives one that has a Ross Perot sticker on the back next to another sticker showing a jesus fish being buggered by a hippy. Get on wid yer bad self. Rob

I've done quite a bit of canyoneering in Zion. If you need some beta let me know and I can steer you in the right direction. Like the original poster, I went down with the intention of doing some climbing but it was just too damn hot. If you decide to do some canyoneering you will want to consider bringing along a wetsuit. Rob

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: Fred is cool, but people who get a woody cause they're in the same room as him need to catch a clue. I used to think he was cool till I learned he is a member of the Mazamas. I'll buy him a beer just for being 80 and spanking the mountains though. Rob

Word straight from the pack designer at BD is that the Ice pack comes in two sizes which strangely are designed to fit two different back sizes. I have the 45L pack and whined about it being uncomfortable for heavy loads. He told me to get the 50L version. I dont know squat about the mixed master. The ice pack hip belt is removeable and the frame pad is removeable as well. Trifold design folds out into a short bivy pad. Its not very thick so I was thinking about slicing up a ridgerest and seeing how that works. I really like my ice pack but it sucks for carrying skis. Also, just because it has a huge collar on it, don't be tempted to pack your keg in it. Rob

Check out that rad spell check feature while you "serch" for "infernos." Dude Rib

I climb at Smith relatively frequently (I'm in Portland). My wife's just learning to climb so we spend a lot of time on the easy/moderate climbs. There are many fine, easy climbs at Smith that are quite a bit different from what you may be used to at Tieton (I've climbed moderates in both areas). The crumbly tuff at Smith will inspire you. The gorge area at Smith is similar to the basalt of the Tieton. Drop me a line if you want check out Smith. If those outward bound fuckwads ever stop clogging up the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face with their cattle train I plan on taking my wife up it. Maybe you'd like to make it a threesome? Rob

Things have seriously gone downhill from when I was in the Army. Brittney Spears? http://www.liquidgeneration.com/poptoons/britney_breasts.asp Enjoy Rob

Alex Lowe is quoted as once saying "the greatest climber is the one having the most fun." Fuck the numbers. I think its admirable that there are guys out there pushing their limits on sick shit. Getting out of bed damn near has me gripped some mornings. So what? Hero worship isn't what I'm hear for--its to compare penis size. As it stands I'm hung like a castrated ferret. Whats an 'avatar' anyway? Rob

Let me draw your attention to where I wrote "Zig Zag" and not Government Camp. I'm not asking about the Glade Trail which seems to be what you are commenting on. More specifically, I am interested in what is rumored to be a pretty fun tree run down the west side of hood, via Paradise Park down into the Ramona Falls area and out to Lolo Pass Rd. Hope this helps. Rob

Anarchists drive? Since when? I don't own enough black clothes to be an anarchist. Rob

I've found that clove hitching to anchor points on multi-pitch to be fast and easy. I'm not a knot-master though. Rob

Picture of the West Buttress Route on Denali, antique wooden-stock ice axe from an auction in Mexico, picture of me looking like a dork (not hard) with Cayambe in the background. I'm planning on adding an antique crampon and some old pitons and ice screws to my wall. Haven't quite figured out how to hang them. Rob

I heard rumors that a fun run is to start off at Timberline, climb to Illumination Rock and head down towards zigzag where you car shuttle/hitchhike back to timberline. Anyone ever done this route? Rob

Any freeheelers in the Portland area want to hook up? I suck but am working diligently to get better before I wreck my body AND equipment. Got car, will drive. Email me. Rob

I'd be pretty surprised if there is an untrammeled square inch on Mt. Hood. Climbing a peak with no previous knowledge though can be an invigorating experience, especially for someone with a good imagination. I sometimes think that given the dynamic nature of alpine routes, almost every ascent is, in a way, a first ascent. Rock routes vary little over time unless holds are broken, bolts drilled etc. Alpine routes vary tremendously depending on snow pack, weather conditions, snow cconditions, etc. I climbed Cooper Spur in November 2000, in a year with exceptionally low snowfall and before the winter snows had really formed the route to its "normal" state. None of the guidebooks I read afterwards mentioned anything about the mixed climbing we encountered. I'm not knowledgable enough about ice climbs but I've wondered if the same is true for them as well. What are your thoughts? Rob

And you know the status of his foreskin how? You guys are a fascinating study. Rob

Shoulda found some medic-hottie to suck out the venom. Rob