rbw1966

quote: Originally posted by MysticNacho: No, I'm talking about the other cave (the one that makes up the monkey's ear, not the pioneer route cave. Sleeping in that one would be a bitch, rolling around everywhere! Got any pics of the other cave Dru? You mean the east facing cave?

Its big enough to sleep in, although the east-facing cave is far roomier. Hauling to either cave would be a snap. Also, given the popularity of this route be prepared for lots of company and an early wake-up. Almost every time I've been to Monkey Face, Outward Bound has had a cattle train of 8-15 climbers heading up it. Usually around daybreak. I'd rant about this practice but I'd be willing to bet I'm not in the minority on this. Oh--and its not legal to camp in the park. But you already knew that and were just asking hypothetically right?

quote: Originally posted by KeithKSchultz: I love my radios, my beer, and my wife. Don't we all?

I dont think there are very many purely sport climbs at Beacon. At least not enough to make it worth the trip. I agree with Will about SE corner. On a weekend that route can be as bad or worse than the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face. Wear a helmet if you're down below. Beacon's a great place. There's also some pretty good bouldering in the area.

SE Corner is considered by many to be a classic. Free for All is a great line. Either bring some big gear for the lower part or be prepared to solo a long ways.

Monitor Ridge is pretty common in the winter as well. Try to find someone to drive you to the trailhead on a snowmachine.

quote: Originally posted by erik: patent expired It had not expired by the time Petzl manufactured them. And Lets be clear: Petzl licensed the design from Kong. Probably why they cost more from Petzl then Kong. I imagine the expired patent has something to do with BDEL's entry into the keylock foray.

Thin Air on Koala Rock (5.9 I think) is a pretty fun climb as well. Mixed trad and bolts. The start of the second pitch is the crux.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: I picked up a couple of KBs saturday. I got the Camp ones. A couple of dollars cheaper than BD too. Also heard they are both made by the same company and are the same pitons. Another reason BD sux butt sometimes. [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: rayborbon ] I suppose Petzl sucks as well since they sell the keylock biner at a significant mark-up from what Kong (the patent holder) sells them. It pays to shop around. Good score Ray.

quote: Originally posted by kweb: I have noticed that many gear lists for Denali suggest using 2 pads... a therm-a-rest and the ridge rest. Combined they offer an R value of 5.2. and weight of 30ozs (3/4 length ultra light and full length ridge rest). I currently use a Mt. Hardware High Mt. 60. R value is 6.75 and weighs 32ozs. While the overall thickness of the combo is 1.63" (compaired to 1.125"), 4 ounces lighter and 12" longer....The Mt. Hardware pad has a higher R value. What do you all think is a better choice? Take them both. I don't understand the discussion here--you are asking about Denali right? Its not like you're doing it Twight style in a single 4-hour push from Kahiltna International Airport. You're pulling a fucking sled, fer crissakes. Take all the damn pads you can carry, along with a few camp chairs and a gas-fired BBQ. You'll be damn glad you did. When your tent-bound for a week at 14K trying to negotiate the indentations in the snow melted out from the lack of protection your puny .3mm thick, 6" long frame pad that you pulled from inside your pack. . jesus, someone stop me now. You're going to have plenty of time to think about what you left behind. Bring an extra pad. You'll be glad you did. Put all the light stuff in your pack, load the sled with the heavy stuff then tell your partner you have lower back problems and can't pull a sled. Have a good time and sleep well.

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: They will form when the Gorge does,and stick around a little longer. A better phrasing might be IF the Gorge does. We saw a little ice earlier in the season but nothing climbable. Anybody know if Pete's pile is in?

quote: Originally posted by bballer44: i-84 to hood river, hang a right and go about 30 miles. . . This will put you at Parkdale (approximately) and quite a ways from Timberline. If I'm going to Timberline I take the Troutdale exit as described above. Its the most hassle-free in my opinion. If I'm going just about anywhere else on the mountain I go through H.R. Its alot mroe scenic, even if its a lot longer. Besides, the pizza in H.R. is worth the stop.

quote: Originally posted by IceIceBaby: Randy Rackliff the owner and maker of this packs is, a very accomplish NE climber who design the pack because the market at the time (1990) didn’t have an alpine packs. He doesn't have a marketing campaign, no ads at the magazines, hell - he doesn't have an 800 number needless to say a web site. When you call his studio, you always get him and not a marketing rap. Basically, he is not here for the money he is all about making gear that works and transfer the saving from all the extra that mention above to the climbers, who really know what they looking for. Why do people insist on assuming manufacturers are not in it for the money? Why the hell else would someone go through the hassle of desing, construction and marketing? Its a business.

quote: Originally posted by imorris: Tough to do if you live in NE and commute to L. Oswego. There are other reasons to avoid Burnside besides traffic. But I won't let the thread creep. You already did.

quote: Originally posted by imorris: In bike accidents, you tend to quit for the day or head to the hospital after you kiss the bumper of that *#&$# 4.7L Range Rover on Burnside driven by the f'ing soccer mom on the cellphone trying to organize a dinner party as you're trying to get to work, so you can generally expect only a single impact. Hence the lightweight styrofoam style. Here's a thought: avoid Burnside during rush hour. For climbing my vote goes for the hard-shell helmets. Styros aren't designed for multiple impacts. When I'm doing that agony of defeat tumble off the Sandy Headwall I don't want pieces of my helmet beating me to the base. Plus I'm a slave to fashion.

You're kidding right? You can't get a bike across that footbridge west of the bridge that was destroyed? If my arthritic, 11 year old golden retriever can make it across you should have no trouble making it with a bike. I'd recommend carrying it on your shoulder rather than riding it though. Rumor has it the water is pretty cold. That's a great climbing area. Thanks to my friend Larry for showing me around there.

I have an aquaintance who lives in Bellingham and got busted by the canucks on his way into Canada with Mr. Greenjeans riding shotgun. They cavity searched him and charged him $500 for the honor. Now his name is in a database that gets him the stink-eye every time he crosses the border (which is often). A group of us (in seperate cars) went to Manning to ski. I was behind his truck. Before we even left he begged everyone to leave Mr. Greenjeans at home, along with any accessories. My friend got pulled to the side for extensive questioning and searching whilst we passed on through unmolested. Its not that hard to locate Mr. Greenjeans or his relatives in either Mexico or Canada. Why bother with the risk of taking it with you? Speaking of Mexico, I was talking with a guy who was in baja for a month climbing. He had aquired the services of Mr. Greenjeans whilst there and plum forgot about the accessories conveniently located in a pocket of his pack. US Customs agents quickly discovered it (hint: clean up a bit--shave, etc--before making a border crossing) and hassled him for quite a while. He had no actual herbage on his person or baggage--just a little ol' pipe. Eventually they let him go with the admonition, "I should prosecute you just for being so stupid." 'Nough said.

I have an aquaintance who lives in Bellingham and got busted by the canucks on his way into Canada with Mr. Greenjeans riding shotgun. They cavity searched him and charged him $500 for the honor. Now his name is in a database that gets him the stink-eye every time he crosses the border (which is often). A group of us (in seperate cars) went to Manning to ski. I was behind his truck. Before we even left he begged everyone to leave Mr. Greenjeans at home, along with any accessories. My friend got pulled to the side for extensive questioning and searching whilst we passed on through unmolested. Its not that hard to locate Mr. Greenjeans or his relatives in either Mexico or Canada. Why bother with the risk of taking it with you? Speaking of Mexico, I was talking with a guy who was in baja for a month climbing. He had aquired the services of Mr. Greenjeans whilst there and plum forgot about the accessories conveniently located in a pocket of his pack. US Customs agents quickly discovered it (hint: clean up a bit--shave, etc--before making a border crossing) and hassled him for quite a while. He had no actual herbage on his person or baggage--just a little ol' pipe. Eventually they let him go with the admonition, "I should prosecute you just for being so stupid." 'Nough said.

On our way down from Camp Muir we passed a group of Army guys (national guard maybe?) who were hiking up in a rag-tag assemblage of street clothes and uniform parts. Some were wearing combat boots, others running shoes. ALmost all were wearing cotton socks--some had their socks on their hands.

quote: Originally posted by dharmabum: . . .In 1990, while making $4/hr, I saved up enough to buy a full set of Friends & biners. I walk in the next day, the same guy that sold me the stuff is acting like he doesn't know me when I have a couple questions, and then the owner acts like it's a big goddamned deal to get me a block of chalk. . . Hmmm. . lets see, 2002-1990=12 years. Awful long time to be harboring a grudge because a retailer didn't suck your dick after you spent $150. Like someone else said, they all have their good points and their bad points. Its a business, not a mutual admiration society. Thats what this board is for, no?

quote: Originally posted by crack addict: finally, the patagonia store on nw irving is cool if only because of their commitment to the environment, etc. The only climbing gear they carry are over-priced jackets and pants you could possibly fill with snow and use as bollards. Hell, they didn't even have bibs when I was in there Friday.

I'm with Will on his assessment of US Outdoor as an overpriced apparel store. HOWEVER, I got a ladies ratagonia shell jacket there once for a song. It pays to shop around. I rarely rely on the sales staff of a gear shop for beta on the equipment. I do my research before I ever go into the shops. Sometimes you can obtain route info from the staff, but again I rarely rely on it alone.

Hardly to let a thread pass without at least one voice of dissent: I think The Mountain Shop rules with respect to ski mountaineering info and equipment. Oregon Mountain Community is my second choice, with Climb Max usually being my first choice for rock gear. I almost never go to REI. I think U.S. Outdoor Store blows. No backcountry ski gear and maybe two/three people in the whole store who know anything about climbing--in my experience. Perhaps I just hit them on bad days? I still go there to compare prices.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: Yeah, I was hoping someone that climbed the Sandy Headwall would post a report. I assume someone climbed it? I would be very interested in a TR and / or beta on the any routes on the Sandy side...anyone? What is it you want to know? The guidebook is pretty spot-on. When we did it (day before new years eve 1999) it was pretty straightforward with no great technical difficulties--we didn't even rope up. Whilst on the Yocum last week and looking down at it, it looked pretty sweet. Not too dissimilar from Leuthold but a bit steeper. I'll be going by there this weekend if the weather is descent. I can let you know what I see from the bottom looking up if no one else has posted beta before then.

I'm pretty sure the Wickwire photo was taken from the top of the third gendarme. It was a big inspiration for me as well.