rbw1966

quote: Originally posted by Slide: The entire crag is on private property. It goes towards paying for improvements to the crag, and I'm sure a portion goes towards reimbursing the owner of the property for the funds he spent on a lawyer drawing up the liability-release form and for storage of the forms. The owner keeps a copy of all of the waivers on file and occasionally checks up on climbers. He is very friendly though. Oh, it's a one-time fee. If you want more info go to: http://www.portlandrockgym.com/carver.htm This is not entirely true. The owner did not pay a lawyer to draw up the releases. An attorney donated her time. Besides, the property owner is a lawyer himself. Not only does he check up on climbers but I always ask climbers out there if they've signed a release and paid their $5 (which goes towards administrative costs like signs, copying the releases, etc). Access was threatened earlier last year when a couple of bozos walked through the owner's construction site to get to the crag, stalling the work that was being done. In spite of signs (and common sense) showing a detour. The owner has spent a lot of money on trail improvement projects. Members of the Carver Climbing Club have donated time and effort to helping out. The owner's being very cool for allowing climbing to take place there. Help out and make sure you sign a release. The $5 is a lot cheaper than a gym membership.

Someone email me and let me know where you will be at I'll try and make it.

Carver has a lot of bouldering and even a guide now. Carver is on private property though, so respect the access we have by paying your $5 at the Portland Rock Gym and signing a waiver. Rob

Monte Cristo is pretty badass too.

quote: Originally posted by Big Wall Betty: It is my understanding that Fred Beckey has an honorary membership in the Mountaineers...ie they inducted him. Maybe with his permission, but I don't think he was really part of them. Betty has spoken. Whether honorary, inducted or voluntary, Fred is on the membership roles of the Mazamas. Thankfully, however, I am not.

quote: Originally posted by Don Gonthier: Hey Wayne. I was there a few weeks ago and it was fine. A few things have overgrown but nothing important and there are no crowds. Just like before Tim's guide came out. Its still closed to climbing though, so you got to be real low key and park the car down the road. I believe the county has given up on trying to quarry there because of land use laws and what not but, are unwilling to back down and open it up to climbing. The Access Fund is still in negotiations with the County in an effort to purchase the land and/or designate it as a state park. The hitch as I recall is that the County has to find an alternate site for quarrying.

Marijuana Linked to Sitting Around and Getting High The National Institute of Health released the results of a controversial new study today, one that links the drug marijuana to sitting around and getting high. The study, a comprehensive five-year survey of drug use among Americans, also suggests a possible connection between marijuana and getting baked off your ass. Aside from its uses in making cloth, providing life-saving medicine and constructing rope, the cannabis plant has also been found to get you stoned off your ass. "We have found that where there's marijuana," explained Institute spokesperson Roger Krell, "there's also a good chance of finding stoners on a couch passing around a bong." Krell added that in such situations, "There is also a strong likelihood of finding incense, a TV, and some chips, usually Ruffles." Krell would neither confirm nor deny the alleged link between marijuana and Pink Floyd's The Wall. He would confirm, however, that the album rules. "There is some seriously fucked-up shit on that album," he said. "Especially side two. Mother do you think they'll drop the bomb..." Marijuana, or "pot," as it is called on the street, is a harmless drug that helps you relax and feel mellow. Its only known side-effects are occasional uncontrollable laughter and mild hunger, or "the munchies." Not everyone agrees with the survey's findings. "Getting high is the least of marijuana's uses," said Matt Henner, President of Hemp For Victory and a total pothead. "The ancient Egyptians used hemp to build the pyramids. In the 1930s, the WPA used it to construct bridges and dams. Today it is used for medicine and as a non-polluting alternative to gasoline." Henner then admitted he was "wasted beyond belief." According to experts, drug use among 15-24 year olds is cool. "That's really the cool age to do drugs," said U.S. Drug Czar Bertrand Seaver. "When you're young, that's the thing to do. In fact, studies show that teenagers who smoke pot are far more likely to be accepted by the in-crowd." While drug use among young people is cool, experts say older people who still do drugs are losers. "A young person who does drugs is healthy and normal," said Harvard sociologist Beth Henterpen. "But if a guy's like 45, and he's still getting high, it's like, 'Get a life!'" Marijuana also has been proven to have the wonderful side-effect of enhanced sexual sensations, enabling some users to achieve transcendental states of erotic bliss. The study found that this link, however, was severely limited in many subjects because they had, due to sitting around all the time, never actually met members of the opposite sex. "But if they did," said Krell, "then it'd be amazing." So far, the study has met with formal protest by only two groups. The Alabama-based Center for the Christian Family, claimed the findings to be terribly inaccurate, noting marijuana's ability to "make users think they can fly and jump out of buildings, like on Quincy, as well as its tendency to induce demon possession, homicidal rampages, and homosexuality." Another group to object to the study was California rapping group Cypress Hill. "Marijuana's not linked to sitting around, man... It's linked to cruising the Barrio with a 40 and a 12 gauge, blowing pendejos away," said group member DJ Muggs. "Hand onna pump, puffin' on a blunt... la la la la laaaaaaaaaaa..." Courtesy of The Onion.

Since I got a gri-gri though I'll never use a jumar for top-rope soloing again. I still back up the gri with 8's though.

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Yes, I have taken a fall and it held. I have talked to one guy who fell and the ascender torqued off the rope; so, it can happen. There is inherent risk since there is no backup to this system. It's all risk assessment, right?Greg I've used this system before as well. I backed it up by tying figure 8's on a bite and clipping them to an HMS on my belay loop. I liken it to jugging a fixed line--I back that up too. I've heard too many reports of jumars popping off to not back it up.

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Buck-up man, 'cause unless you plan to shuttle back to around to your car, you're gonna be downclimbing that section too...after that climbing up it will seem tame in comparison Downclimbing Cooper Spur is NOT recommended. A lot of people have lost their lives going down that route. Most people do a car shuttle.

quote: Originally posted by DonnV: Anyone done this or have info on best direction, approach and exit from the area? Thinking about a long solo day later on, and can arrange for drop-off at one trailhead and pick-up at another. Thats on my tic list as well. Rumor has it that the best way is north to south. When ya thinking of going? Are you skiing it?

My tale of woe with BDEL: I bought a Bibler Bombshelter for a climb of Denali. Three days before we fly to Alaska we're practicing setting it up in the yard whilst wearing heavy gloves. The tent pole shoots through my hand as I try to fit it in the corner and plunges right through the bottom of the tent. 5" or so gash in the tent floor. Oh, and its a Saturday. I call BDEL all freaked out and the guy says Fedex it to them and they will make sure I get it before we leave. "Are you sure?" I ask him because I;'d rather go with duct tape then not have the tent. He gives me the BDEL fedex account (gratis shipping), I get it out, they stitch a patch over the tear and I have it back by 9 Monday morning. If that isn't customer service I dont know what is. I guess it helps to pay 1K.

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: here is some unslung for 37.99 http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2.cgi?PAGE=PROFRAME&PROD_ID=32331 By the time you sling them you are looking at $60 or more. Unless of course you use accessory cord.

quote: Originally posted by erik: the master key for cars is not true.... Sure is. I have a friend who worked at a rental car lot. One key opened every model of a particular manufacturer.

quote: Originally posted by Paul detrick: nicely said from someone NOT from eastern washington. I don't live in the ozone layer either (nuch). Does that mean I should have no voice in its preservation?

First off, let me say I am sorry for your loss. It totally sucks to get your gear stolen like that. I--and my friends--have been climbing at Smith for years with no thefts recorded. But I almost never leave my gear unattended--in my car or otherwise. Usually there are one or two dogs there with it. One guy I know has set up a tent in the grasslands before for over a month with stuff inside of it. Not a thing stolen. It helps when your gear looks like shit I suppose. I'll be at Smith this weekend. I'll let you know if I find anything.

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: Like I said before go to Illumination Rock. I am going to scan a copy of the topos soon I hope! I've been at Illumination Rock (albeit a couple weeks ago) and I saw no ice. Is it on the west side or something?

I apologize in advance if I am in the wrong forum. I'm doing some research on accident statistics on various peaks. I'm specifically looking for information on Kilimanjaro. Anyone know of any source information for climbing-related statistics on this peak? Gracias

From rec.climbing:Test Report - Sewn Slings on Wire Stoppers - Suicidal or Acceptable Tom Jones - tom@jrat.com, www.canyoneeringusa.com Thanks for Black Diamond for providing materials, information andtesting facilities for this test. All conclusions are my own, anddo not represent the opinion of Black Diamond Equipment LTD. © 2002 Nolan Jones. Permission is granted to reproduce only init's entirety, including this copyright notice. Introduction: The question comes up from time to time - how strong is a slingthrown through a wired stopper? Some say - really weak - never doit. Some say - it's not so bad. So I decided to run some testsand find out. Black Diamond Wired Stoppers come with 3 sizes of cable: #s 1 and2 use 1/16" 7x7 galvanized cable; #s 3, 4 and 5 use 3/32" 7x19galvanized cable; and larger sizes use 1/8" 7x19 galvanized cable.I concentrated on the larger two sizes. BD was kind enough to makeup samples of just the swaged cables. Black Diamond Nylon 11/16" or 18mm runners are similar to slingsin common use among climbers. These are probably a little strongerthan average, and were chosen for testing largely because I had abunch of new ones from the same batch that I could use. All resultsshould be scaled down based on the rated strength of the runnersyou are using. WARNING: evaluation of these tests requires experience and judgment.I do not recommend using slings on wires - but for the expertclimber it MIGHT be a reasonable alternative IN SOME CIRCUMSTANCES. The Tests: Of course, we can't test every combination. So here's what Idecided to test: A. Data on the #2 stopper establishes the base strength of the1/16" cable. B. Data on the #5 stopper establishes the basestrength of the 3/32" cable. C. Data on the #8 stopper establishesthe base strength of the 1/8" cable. D. Data on Camalot slingsestablishes the base strength of the webbing loops. Base Data: 1/16" cable: Average 724 lbs, Minimum 566 lbs, Rating 450 lbs, N= 131. 3/32" cable: Average 1747 lbs, Minimum 1409 lbs, Rating1259 lbs, N = 220. 1/8" cable: Average 2970 lbs, Minimum 2607lbs, Rating 2248 lbs, N=190. Slings: Average 5781 lbs, Minimum5393 lbs, Rating 4946 lbs, N=236. But, we're not going to be real sophisticated here, we'll just usethe average. 1/6" cable = 724 lbs. 3/32" cable = 1747 lbs. 1/8" cable = 2248lbs. Sling = 5781. New Test Data - all tests use 4 samples. All strengths in pounds. T1: Test actual batch of slings. Average = 5880. Minimum = 5733. Conclusion: this batch of slings a little stronger than average. T2: Test slings, girth hitched together (as they normally are inthe field), not neatly dressed. Average = 4363. Minimum = 4084. Conclusion: girth hitching sling to sling loses 26% of the slingstrength. Given the high initial strength, the hitched system isstill strong enough for most climbing uses. T3: 1/16" cable with sling girth hitched to it. Average = 936.5. Minimum = 911 Conclusion: compared to 1/16" cable average of 724 lbs - Sling isstronger when girth hitched to sling than when run over the headof a tiny stopper. T4: 3/32" cable with sling girth hitched to it. Average = 1301.5. Minimum = 1269. Conclusion: compare to 3/32" cable average of 1747 lbs. Loss ofstrength of 26% on the cable. T5: 1/8" cable with sling girth hitched to it. Average = 1709.0 Minimum = 1624. Conclusion: compare to 1/8" cable average of 2248 lbs. Loss ofstrength of 28%. T6: 1/8" cable with sling doubled through it (rather than girthhitched). Average = 3211. Minimum = 3054. Conclusion: compare to 1/8" cable average of 2248 lbs. No lossof strength. T7: 3/32" cable girth hitched with 3/32" cable (stopper to stopperextension). Average = 1520. Minimum = 1439. Conclusion: compare to 3/32" cable 1747, loss of strength of 13%- better than the sling. Comments: The data is screwed up a little bit because the actualstoppers are tested with the aluminum stopper at the top and a 10mmpin at the bottom. These commonly break at the top, where thecable folds tightly going into the stopper. Thus, in these tests,we can achieve "stronger than average results" because we arerunning the tests differently. Overall conclusion: Yes and No. 1/16" cable (really small stoppers) You probably would not think of tossing a sling through these,because the placement and the cable are so small and weak to beginwith. Looks like the sling does not make it any worse, but thisis of little utility, since this is an aid piece anyway. Not strongenough to rappel off of. 3/32" cable (small stoppers 4, 5 and 6) I think these are usually considered pretty strong, but not truck.Girth Hitching the sling through gives you significant loss ofstrength, to down below the rating on the #5 Stopper. May be OKfor rappelling and low-impact falls, but not for general use. 1/8" cable (large stoppers) These are usually considered truck. Tossing the sling throughresults in a strength of 1709 lbs (loss of 28%). Sketchy still,even on the large size. OK for rappelling and low-impact circumstances,but not for general use. Girth Hitch vs. Doubling the sling through: Doubling through WINS big time. Yes, it takes twice as much sling,but it is definitely significantly stronger. Wire Cable hitched with Wire Cable (Stopper to Stopper extension) Stronger than the sling, but not that strong. Makes for a stiffunit, negating what is often the prime reason for extending thepiece in the first place. Conclusive Overall Conclusions: Girth Hitching a NYLON sling through reasonable size Stoppers isOK for low-strength operations, but should be treated with caution.Doubling the sling through, especially on the smaller sizes, isacceptable. Extending with cables suffers from some of the sameproblems, though to a lesser degree. Spectra Slings - No comment, not tested. And of course, everyone will draw the line differently. Protectinga 60' runout and no biners to spare? Sure, it's better than nothing,but I'd try to double the sling through at the very least. Forsetting a rappel? Acceptable I guess, in the larger sizes, butrepeated use might eventually cut the webbing. Using smaller webbing than the BD 18mm nylon slings? Exercise morecaution. That's my story, I'm a stickin' to it. (signed) Tom Jones aka Jrat aka Ratagonius Utahness

Did you bother contacting their customer service department? (Sorry, I found it tedious to try and wade through your rant to see if you mentioned that). I've been happy with everything I've ever purchased from BDEL. Further, the three times I have had problems with gear (buckles breaking, tent pole punching through the bottom of my Bibler tent, ski pole breaking--three times), they've promptly repaired or replaced the item in question at their expense. And the service items were operator error--not quality of craftsmanship or materials. I wish I could say the same for the other manufacturers with whom I've had to deal. Your mileage, of course, may vary. Perhaps I am odd, but it seems to me that ranting without giving the company an opportunity to satisfy your concerns is bigoted.

There was one reasonably nice line early Saturday but by the time we got done with it the lower portion was melted out.

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Well Cody that depends on your definition of ice. Your more likely to get in some really scary dry-tooling but if anyone can find ice, herbs, or general debauchery in P-town, Will's the man. There have been rumors that from time to time the gorge has ice for short periods. In some cases you have a matter of hours to take advantage of the conditions. Anyhow, good luck to you gentlemen on your ice capades. I was climbing the ice at ski bowel last weekend. It was way too warm but fun nonetheless. I'm sure its all melted out by now.

Worst ascent: Cayambe in Ecuador. Pick-up driver got a flat, then his spare went flat too. We had to hike about 5 miles to get to the hut. At 12K-15K. Worst decent: East Wilman Spire."going straight down that west gully looks a lot easier then the way we came up""yeah, more direct too""lets do it" 6 rapels off manky chockstones, one stuck rope and 5 hours later we are back at the bikes in Monte Cristo.

I am a retard. Every reference to "east" was meant as "west". Sorry

quote: Originally posted by Dru: you mean the one on monkey space or what? i dont got no pix of that one. cant free it yet. heard bolts were sketchy as of last fall too, some friends retreated. This is incorrect. I have freed it. There is one sketchy bolt just below the cave that can be backed up with a cam but you lose the use of the pocket. The route goes at 5.11b I believe. Getting out of the cave is the crux in my opinion. The exposure is gripping. This cave is east facing and a perfect spot for bivy but of course, illegally.