rbw1966

The lab is fine if you sit outside. Inside is too noisy to carry on much of a conversation unless you're right next to each other. I've spent many memory-less nights at the Spaceroom. And various places within staggering distance. Bridgeport in NW is another option. Pizza sucks but good beer. I'm not too fond of the burbs so if you go there its unlikely I will be in attendance but don't make that a deciding factor. A couple of ideas for meetings are: Dot's Alameda Ale House Horsebrass Black Cat Barley Mill

I'd offer up my house but not on a Thursday night. Might have to wait until I get back from Alaska.

Is "charbonneau" now its own city? "Pro Row" is Produce Row. Located in the industrial eastside by the river in, oddly enough, historic Produce Row. Few blocks north of Montage essentially. It actually was one of the first McPubs and the only one I am aware of that was later sold. Does the Kingston still do fries with gravy?

quote: Originally posted by iain: So you would recommend dealing with BD direct...perhaps I will try that. Absolutely. When you talk with them, let it be known that you really need a quick turn-around on replacement and they'll get it to you right away. I've never had to wait more than 5 days when I've followed this strategy.

Could you not see Yocum Ridge as you traversed across the Reid? If you truly saw the gendarmes in front of you then you were pretty low on Yocum and not even close to the upper headwall. Sounds almost as if you went from illumination saddle directly to lower yocum and then on up. Maybe busting out that map on the way up would have helped. We all make mistakes. Glad you made it back ok. Rob

Thanks for the heads up belle. I wrote Metolius and got the word. Indeed, they "conservatively" rate their adjustable daisies at 300lbs. But are actually much stronger. Yeah, I am gonna test that on my next lead. Thanks again.

You really are paranoid. I have no idea what you are referring to. I have never PM'ed you before. Ever. Nor has anyone I know, but then again I don't know anyone on this message board except for one other Portlander. And I didn't read the bolting diatribe.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Hello Rob, So what is your point. If you read anything about the bolt wars your quoting me makes no sense other than to target me for some nonsense like DDD. Which is the initials of your mom. I pulled one on her P.S. I did not chop I removed. THere is a difference brainiac. My point, which I am sorry was so subtle, was that most topics on here get regurgitated. I don't understand why you took it so personally. I'm really sorry. I give you my word that I will never quote you ever again. Mkay?

In a private message Raybonbon writes: Subject: You got beef Message: If so fuck off. I'd probably be able to kick your ass anyways.. Ray-- You blocked my ability to reply to the above via private message so I'll take the liberty to do so here. Nope, no beef with you. Don't know you, don't care. Just making a comment on the endless discussion of bolting wars. Nothing personal was implied.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Yeah the endless bolt wars are more funny. Are you trying to say something or are you just mad I ripped the bolts out of DDD? Please send your tears via mail to: Bite Me Loser 1234 Mockingbird Lane Mazama,WA 12345[/QB] I'm less interested in your chopping job (what is DDD? The initials of your lover? He must be hurting after the "ripping") then you seem to be with my comment. Have one of your favorite genera of malt liquor on me.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: It's funny how these subjects regurgitate every season.. Unlike the endless bolting wars

quote: Originally posted by Mike Buker: While in Yosemite a few weeks back, not climbing El Cap, I ran into a couple that was climbing the route next to me. She was anchored into the wall with three pieces equalized and clipped to a Yates adjustable aider, girth-hitched to her harness. This set-up allowed her to instantly adjust the distance between herself and the anchor, while remaining attached. I've seen the same done with 6mil. cordage, but that required a convoluted Purcell knot. Is this an acceptable anchor? Aider or daisy? I have some metolius adjustable daisies as well as aiders. Love the daisies, hate the aiders for aid. They work great for jugging though. I don't have a problem using my daisies as attachment points to the anchor. I usually clove hitch the rope from my tie-in to the anchor as well. I'd never just use a single attachment point. Also kong makes adjustable daisies using 6mil cord (or is it 7mm?). Works just dandy.

For some reason this reminds me of the time (I think it was last year) that they found three cameras like this in the showers in Yosemite. The male showers. Saw an article in the paper. Really.

You only need it through the end of this month too (I think).

$70 fine for not having a permit. Permit costs $15. Anyone with a scanner can make copies and distribute at will. Of course I would never do that myself. If you do get a ticket, photocopy someones permit and mail it in with your check. They'll drop the fine. Worked for me.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: No reason to imply that someone else is a lesser being or gumby just because their advice is different. Hope this wasn't directed to me. If you read any implication that I was dissing anyone perhaps you should write for the Weekly World News. Just offering a different perspective. I do agree that bringing equipment to cover the contingency and deciding when you get there is the best advice.

Could you make the image a bit smaller please?

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: you can leave the snowshoes- I've done this route various times of year and never needed them. You will definitely need an ice axe and crampons, and the skills to use them. There is a 'crux' section that can be pretty steep. You've obviously never climbed it after a recent snowstorm. I've done this route in conditions where I was postholing to my waist.

There are a number of campgrounds within 15 minutes or so of Timberline. They may not be all that comfortable at this time of year (i.e. snow on the ground). I'd bivvy in my truck in the t-line parking lot. Watch out for jonny issuing citations for not having a snow park permit. Take skis. Enjoy the ride.

Do you know why scots wear kilts? Sheep can hear zippers

Yo bug-- You might want to just carry enough to hit the summit then scavenge once you head back down. I'm assuming you are descending via the west buttress and not trying to down-climb the rib. Are you climbing the entire west rib or doing the Riblet (rib from 14K to summit?). People on the descent are always trying to lighten their loads so you can score mucho food and fuel from 14k. Have fun

You guys sound like you would be real fun to party with.

The rubber bands that they wrap around produce (broccoli comes to mind) works great for tightening the biners on the draws.

quote: Originally posted by beefcider: MF cameras are expensive and the ones light enough to climb with are horribly expensive. Sorry for rambling... Get a Holga. Its medium format and runs about 25 skins. Sure, its plastic and a toy camera but you'll be surprised how good the pics turn out. Thanks for the info