rbw1966

Both my partner and I have been using T2's and Sabretooths for years with no problems. They suck for ice but maybe thats just me.

We bailed on the SE ridge of Foraker then took a look at Sultana. No way. Then went to the West Ridge of Hunter and struggled through chest deep snow there too. What a bust. Total time on glacier: 2 days.

We did it in winter so conditions were a bit different then they are now. That being said, I would recommend going low, rather than higher. Yes, there is a significant loss in elevation but its faster and simpler than going high. Wear a helmet. Especially this time of year.

I forgot to take my wedding ring off while climbing once. When I fell, in true gaper fashion [i feel so cool for being able to incorporate that word into my vocabulary] I grabbed the rope. The ring caught on the rope and cut my finger. It was fairly superficial with little bleeding as the friction cauterized the wound. I take it off every time now.

quote: Originally posted by iain: Heard talk of daisies being used as belay anchors? Most companies design them simply to hold body weight (though they can clearly hold much more based on break strength, they bar-tack for body weight on those loops). Has someone heard otherwise? "THE WORD" from Metolius when I inquired as to the strength rating of their adjustable daisies was that you should never rely solely on your daisies as the anchor. They are rated substantially lower than their actual breaking strength. I suspect this is to avoid liability associated with someone taking a static fall on daisies. In other words, yeah you can rely on your daisies as the anchor but if they break and you tweak your back after a static fall don't come crying to us.

I'm pretty fond of my metolius adjustable daisies.

My favorite depends on the conditions I've encountered when climbing the route. So far my favorite was the Sandy Headwall: beautiful sunny sky, solid verglass all the way to the summit, not another soul in sight the entire climb. So secure and ideal we didn't even bust out the rope. I need to do more stuff on the north side though.

I have a pair of Acopa slippers. My feet are quite narrow (sportivas usually work best for me) and they are snug as a bug (We'll flourish on your smelly feet) in a rug. Just a different data point. Boreals I know tend to run wide.

I thought that was Richard ("just use dick") Pumpington

Is that from the Brady Bunch episode where Greg and the boys find the tiki idol in the cave? On a different, yet somehow related note, I always knew Danny Bonaducci (sp?) would kick Mike Williams ass but I didn't expect Todd Bridges to pound Vanilla Ice. To bring it back around to climbing: did you know Billy Squire climbs? Another boring day at the office.

Which side of castle crags were you on? Although I haven't gone up that way, it sounds an awful lot like the way we descended after doing the Sandy Headwall a couple years ago. We had left our tent at Illumination Saddle and were trying to find a more direct descent rather than going down the south side and traversing over.

She will be at POwell's in Portland on the 28th.

Why do so many people go to Smith in such large groups? Wanna avoid the crowds? Think the Gorge. Both the upper or the lower tend to attract fewer people and, as an added bonus, you can avoid most of the heat as well. A lot of worthy climbing to be found down there. If you think going to the Marsupials will get you away from the crowds think again. I was on Koala Rock a couple of weeks back and there were at least 4 other groups on it at the same time--almost all waiting to get on Thin Air. But then again, 4 groups is not crowded when compared to say, Cinammon Slab. Bring gear. Trad routes attract fewer crowds but those crowds that are attracted are mazamas. There were a few laying siege to Spiderman last time I was there. Took over an hour for this person to lead the first pitch--I am not exaggerating at all. They took a 5.4 variation above the first pitch that took her another 45 minutes. The "experienced" teacher dropped the rope on me as I was leading the first pitch. Sorry for the rant.

With an eleastic waistband no doubt.

Its a real funny story. Talks about how these two smoked a sacajaweeda, drank a bottle of tequila and "stared at the sky like perfect morons." Then they bailed the next morning due to dehydration, shared a hot coke (only beverage in car) and proceeded to get said car stuck. It would be sad if it wasnt so damn funny.

Didn't John Long write about you guys in his book "Close Calls. . "? Were you the guys who broke their water bottles and only had tequila to drink?

I have two dogs: a golden retriever (age 11.5 that I have had since he was 7 weeks old) and a red healer (age 2 or so that I got at the Humane Society). The red healer is not terribly submissive but for some reason other dogs smell "prison bitch" on him and spend hours working his ass. By the time I take him home he needs a shower. Bad. The golden is getting old and grumpy. He plays well with others though.

That Priest show won't be much without Rob Halford. Lame.

I just got wood. Nice pic.

. . don't flush after #2

Don't get me started on off-leash areas. My golden retriever is sporting an artificial ACL because of an aggro doberman. Its all about personal responsibility.

quote: Originally posted by sk: A puppy pissed on the rope, not a dog. Puppies will pee on anything. I guess you read a different post than I did. Belle said it was a dog. I did not read any mention of a puppy. Perhaps I was wrong?

Sometimes I take my dogs to Smith, sometimes not. Its hardly a wilderness environment and if you are hoping for a sojourn with nature a la trask, then you are in the wrong place. If my dogs start acting like assholes (generally they lay down and chill) I stop what I am doing and rememdy the situation (i.e. leave). Like anything, a bit of common sense goes a long way. I recognize not everyone likes dogs nor do they want to pet my dog so I respect that. I've had just about as many bad encounters with people who bring their kids to the crag as I have with dogs. Nothing freaks me out more than to hear a kid let out a wail as I'm making that crux dyno on the 5.4 I am hangdogging. I think people are a far bigger problem than dogs but maybe I just like dogs more. I rarely bring my dogs with me when I mountaineer but don't have any more of a problem seeing a dog on a mountain top as I do a person. Its not "natural" for either of us to be there. On a hiking trail? Well, you ARE on a trail, no? Its been my experience that its a bummer to see anyone on a trail when I am specifically trying to get away from it all but usually any encounter like this tends to be brief so I dont fret over it. The problem as I see it is more of an owner-related issue than the dogs. If people showed more respect and consideration we'd all be a lot happier. Oh, and if someones dog threatened me physically, then I am justified in using force to protect myself. In the unlikely case where my dog takes after someone they are welcome to use force on him. As a dog owner, you have a repsonibility to your pet and others to recognize what sets the dog off. In one of my dogs case, skateboarders and in-line skates make him aggro (the other dog only gets aggro around food). I keep him leashed if there is any chance of him encountering that. If he hurts someone thats my fault--not his or anyone elses.

We made an attempt on EAST WILMAN SPIRE in October last year to avoid snow on the approach. My advice? Do it while there is snow there or you'll be trudging up loose talus the whole way from the gully. Other advice: follow the trail east from the middle of the town site into the gully. As others have mentioned, bring bikes. We slept in my truck and were on the road by 6. This is a day trip if you take bikes. I'd heard rumors (afterwards) that part of the route had peeled off. I believe that it was the bottom ledge that had come off but I wasnt looking for any changes. To be honest, I couldn't tell whilst there but that might be because it was snowing at the time. Its a beautiful area. I plan on going back sometime soon.

I was in Ecuador last year and we did both Illinizas, Cayambe and then made a bid for Cotopaxi but got stymied by weather and torpor. I highly recommend the Ramp route on Illiniza Sur as an acclimitization climb before heading to anything bigger. I found it a lot of fun as well. I wish I would have had more time to spend down there on that trip. One of these days I hope to return.