Alex

yes, the winters were much colder here in the PNW as recently as the 70s and 80s than they are now

so would I, come to think of it! Colin Powell needs to loose those fools he's working for, in general.

Apacolypse Now, right?

Oh my god! I also met him, later that week, in the exact same spot! He was hunched over a boulder, mumbling...

Awesome, I can't wait to see it! Nothing. Jason Martin and I also considered Falcon if the deal with Mountaineers Books didnt work out. The reality is, as an author, you are psyched when any publisher is interested in taking your project, let alone the publisher of your choice. Publishers know enough to know that most guidebooks do not make (much) money. Never going to be a best-seller. So always a risk. True, Smith Guide will sell more copies of something obscure, like, say Washington Ice: A Climbers Guide, but be happy Falcon took the project and you don't have to deal with copies from .JPGs off some Internet site or something. Alex

couple more thoughts: "is the one plastic boot size smaller, custom liner beta dated?" No, I've found this is still a great way to go! Leather boots do fairly well and climb great, but always not quite as well as one would hope in our wet climate here in PNW for multi day trips in winter. Drying them out once wet is impossible on a trip, not so with plastic boot liners. "Scarpa Alpha yadda yadda yadda" This boot does not fit many people. It is (obviously) much lower volume than a std plastic boot, and as such doesnt fit people with high arches well. But like they say, "if the shoe fits,..." "Do alveolite liners compress faster than intuition liners?" Yes. My Arctis liners were new and great (tight even) in Alaska in 1998. I noticed them getting compressed as early as 6 months to a year later (light use). I think you can expect about a season or two of service out of alveolite liners before you notice them changing significanty, but YMMV. My plastic boots are bathtubs now, no longer wearable except on the coldest days in the Cdn Rockies when I just cant get by in leather boots.

TimL is there now, hook up with him. He is a strong safe partner

I agree, the bachelor creek exit would be tedious with skis on your back, but the speed you get from them on the traverse might make those extra few hours out worth it.

Frances is commonly climbed as a day trip from base camp. There are some av slopes, large crevasse field, and some hanging seracs above this approach Crosson SE Ridge is a nice 6000 ft route sometimes done as a long day trip, or as an overnight. Pretty mellow terrain, but last 1000 ft pretty interesting. Great views those Kahiltna summits all have similar routes up them: mostly snow, lots of avalanche slopes, but fairly short. If you want more detailed beta, PM me. (moving this to Alaska forum)

cool website dood The SW couloir up SEWS was my first ever climb in the N Cascades. Good job! Alex

nice work, chickens!!

I liked both Kill Bill 1 and Kill Bill 2. 2 is a little less violent, alot more character development. But has more "creep-out" to it: black mambas, buried alive...yikes! David Carradine is pretty damn funny in his old age!!

I think investing in the right QDs make a big differnece. Use a keylock bent gate 'biner for rope side. Bolt side matters less, but for weight reduction you can use wire gates.

We're all full up with "gimps" as it is, on my boat!

moved to "Events and Adventures..." hehe

I prefer steaksauce

Nate, I tried the N -> S Traverse of the Picket Range in 1999. (http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/TRPicket.htm). My first reaction is yes a traverse from Access Creek to Whatcom Pass and out is doable. My second reaction is dont do it that direction, go FROM Whatcom Pass TO Access Creek. That way you are going downhill down Access Creek, so any bushwacking you encounter on the way out will be that much easier. There is no 'shwacking from Hanegan Pass/Chilliwack to Whatcom Pass, just large sections of trail possibly wiped out by avalanches (but easy to get over). So getting in there is pleasant. Gear - minimal glacier travel gear if you want to get accross the Challenger Gl. and decend Challenger Arm or into Luna Cirque. Alternate trips - if you are comfortable with Glacier travel I would suggest the Ptarmigan Traverse as a better high traverse to see the range, but it is mostly off-trail going.

You can park your car overnight in Lot 4, along the back edge of the lot (you'll see all sorts of camper rigs there).

you just a ho

I don't even have 22 friends

I believe a common date in the past was July 4th weekend.

I only own 10 camalots, there must be something really bad about them!

A front loading washer without and agitator might be ok, but I commonly just wash em in the tub. Thats enough to get most of the grit and dirt out. Certainly DONT put it in a washer with an agitator. You'll end up replacing the washer, in all liklihood

In my opionion, here is a list of some great glaciers to go practice on (in US, BC has other spots) - relatively easy access, real crevasses n stuff. List is South to North. + White River Gl. on Mt Hood - hike up from Timberline Lodge to top of Palmer and do a rising traverse climbers right to around 9,000 ft. There you'll find some crevasses and steep snow slopes above the White River glacier, and a comfortable ski back to the car. + Eliott Gl on Mt Hood - in later season when Cooper Spur road is open, the Eliott and other N side glacier on Hood offer a real nice and scenic place to tool around relatively close to the car. + Nisqually Gl on Rainier. From Paradise hike up towards Panorama Point and then drop down to the toe of the Nisqually. You can hike up the moraine a bit to get to non-ablation zone stuff. Ski decent back to car once you get back out of the canyon. + Emmons Gl on Rainer - While its pretty far in there, in July after White River is open and the trail is good to Boulder Basin, hiking up to Camp Shurman for an overnight there and practice on the Emmons very close to Camp Shurman is a real treat! + Daniel Glacier on Daniel - this is a good solo or beginner outing with little real hazard or difficulty. Still, a nice place to go as a day trip or overnight. + Quien Sabe Gl. on Sahale - While Boston Basin falls within NOCA, which means you need a backcountry permit, the toe of the glacier is 3 hours from the car up Boston Basin and means a pretty doable day trip. This is a good beginner trip and will give you a great introduction to one of the better places in the North Cascades. + Colman Gl on Mt Baker - Going up Heliotrope ridge to the edge of the Coleman is pretty casual, and gets you to a large and active glacier with lots of traffic nearby. Alex

No doubt, since going from Blowhole to Blacks in 3.5 hours is possible!!