Alex

Thanks Brian, good info. The fixed rope is gone, by the way.

Yeah I can see that. Good advice. It sure seems like a great way to go, too, if you are doing the "Ptraverse in Reverse" and are coming down from Cache Col to Cascade Pass. I am pretty comfortable on steep snow, but my partners were not doing so well on Mixup Arm. In hind-sight I think its the steepest sidehilling of the entire route, in early season. Still, its a good taste of things to come.

I was on the Ptraverse twice last year: over July 4th and over Labor Day. I think the routes tough and dangerous spots change depending on when you go. I think the most difficult, cruxy, part of the Ptraverse (other than some of the climbing routes you might do) in earlier season are some of the steep snow slopes on Mixup Arm, while in late season I think it is getting past the LeConte Glacier hands down. A close runner up in late season might be the steep decent from Spider-Formidible col (steep snow, bad runout zone!) I think the Middle Cascade Gl in late season should be climbed roped, though we didnt rope up for it over July 4th last year. There were a surprising number of large hidden crevasses on that glacier near the col last Labor Day. While not dangerous really, I think perhaps one of the most arduous parts of the entire trip is the decent from South Cascade Gl to White Rock Lakes. Thats one steep hill! Compared to all that stuff, the Red Ledge is easy.

I dont remember an obvious route going lower than the Ledge. When you get closer to Red Ledge you kind of realize you dont want to loose any elevation, the terrain is steep scree no matter how low you go. The snow leading to Red Ledge is perhaps 100 ft long, and Red Ledge proper is alot less scary/difficult/badass up close than you might expect reading all the stories. I just rifled through my shots of the Ptraverse last year and didnt see any good "proof" shots to post for you, so I guess thats all I can offer. If you have crampons and an ice axe (as you should for this trip) you will have no problem whatsoever.

Added some pics...

Climb: Mt Baker-Boulder/Park Cleaver Date of Climb: 8/1/2004 Trip Report: I usually don't have much interest in volcano slogs, and when I do them I usually don't write about them, however this route was different enough to warrant a few words! The East side of Mt Baker in a word - solitude! This was a very different kind of trip to a side of the mountain that is not scarred by signs of human passage. There are no trampled climbers paths, no real obvious and well-used climbers camps, and no hordes of climbers. My partner and I hiked in on Saturday evening, taking 2.5 hours from car to camp. Although this trip can be easily done as a day trip by fit parties (estimate 14 hours car to car) , its such an infrequented and quiet side of the mountain you might as well stay a little while and enjoy it. The hike in is at first a flat path through a steamy forest, which ends in a "bog". It really is a bog! At the other side of the bog, make a sharp right and climb up through the trees. (There is a sucker trail that also leads down the steep hillside to the creek below-dont take this!) The steep up through the trees takes about 20 min to where you start breaking out onto more gentle rocky terrain, and then the long grind up the moiraine to camp begins. Beckey says "4 hours" and with really large packs you might take that long, but 2.5 or 3 seems more realistic. A short pitch of 3rd class basalitic rock (an unusual feature!) leads to the alpine meadows of the moraine, and in 20-30 more minutes running water and flat camping spots. Although my partner says this route is popular with the Mountaineers as a basic trip, we found the approach trail indistinct at times, no real obvious camps in the alpine meadows, and no one else around. The entire area seems really infrequented, and the reason is pretty obvious: the 3rd class scramble keeps most hikers at bay, and the routes on this side of Baker are not currently in any of the Select (Nelson/Potterfield, Kearney) guides. The Boulder/Park Cleaver itself is not very interesting for its first half (the Cleaver proper), mostly a hike. We elected not to rope up for this portion and found excellent cramponing conditions. We made fine time to the top of the cleaver, where the route starts veering left to join the summit ridge (and the Easton route) near Sherman peak. Here (currently, Aug 1) there is a section of hard ice that you must negotiate, and some very tricky crevasse navigation (ice screws handy, a "real" ice axe handy). Once past this section, the route steepens considerably. A leftward traverse with several end runs around large cracks leads through multiple large bergschrunds over the course of about 1000 vertical feet to the summit ridge. Only a few hundred feet shy of the summit did we see any other people. We spent a short time there (thanks to the woman from B'ham for feeding me!), and then headed down. Descending, we found a slightly different but no less "heads-up" way through the short section of crevasses that separate the upper mountain from the top of the cleaver. The descent back to camp took us around 2 hours - the first hour to the top of the cleaver is slow going, as it's traversing above large 'schrunds and then though the icy crevasse mess. The second hour (3500 vert) back to camp is primarily glissading. On the way out we saw more goats than people. This side of the mountain is REALLY nice if you want to get away from the crowds! Gear Notes: Ice axe with steel head, ice screws, 33m glacier rope, crampons Approach Notes: The trail to basecamp is sometimes indestinct and hard to follow for short sections.

N F Burgundy 5.8 cool but routefinding is a little harder so take a few topos. Burdo's topo is good. Cuthroat not worth your time Rebel Yell is mid 5.10, wide

I am earnest, actually. I have done alot of climbing and mountaineering with and without corrective lenses. In my initial post I tried to lay out some options for people who are unwilling to maybe spring for Rx sunglasses. I see now we are once again down to offering up credentials "I and my advice is trustworthy in this matter, that other fools is not!" I could appreciate and respect your opinion that one should NOT go out without corrective lenses. I could even appreciate and respect that you might not want to climb with me, since you seem to think my judgement is off. Its too bad you can't do the same, thanks for trivializing my opinion! Alex

I kind of left out Roger's Corner for one reason: one of the cruxes of the second pitch is right off the belay with no real pro. While alot of people do those moves as no big deal, it might be surprising and scary for someone who just doesnt know: the rock is crumply, the pro is sketch, and your belayer is looking at a F2 fall and you are looking at broken ankles if you Elvis-leg it. As such, I don't think its the best introduction (that and its SO steep!!) to Index. However, Rogers Corner p1 (5.7) is a GREAT way to get a short trad lead in AND THEN toprope the difficult Sugar Bear (10c) just to its right...one of the only routes at Index that remains completely dry in light rain.

terrible_ted, perhaps "blind as a bat" was a poor choice of words on my part. For those people who wear glasses, they will know what I mean. Ask yourself, ... do you need Rx glasses to hike up a trail like Granite Mountain? If you really do to see roots and rocks and to avoid stumbling on your face, then you will need them on Mt Rainier. If you don't need Rx glasses (because you can see 20-30 feet in front of you, but not read a sign at 200 ft), then you wont need them on Mt Rainer.

Inner Wall ------------------------ Toxic Shock (as one longer pitch) is a nice shady route with a crux 5 ft off the ground (lieback move, thin) that gets much easier once you do it a few times. Avoid when wet! Right around the corner are 2 parallel cracks that form the first half of "Even Steven" both at 5.8. Good routes. Lower Wall ------------------- Great Northern Slab is nice for starters. (.6 to .8 various lines, Lower Town Wall) Princely Ambitions p1 is probably the easiest of the steeper routes on Lower Town wall. Its .9 but has lots of good rests. The second pitch is "only 5.8" but I find it much more frightening than the first pitch. Godzilla is the Index classic .9. Many people say its 10a, but I think its not too tough if you are tall, and remember to rest. Its a long pitch though, bring 2 ropes. Japanese Gardens to the first anchor is a commonly done 9/10a. Its a bit thin and insecure for pro near the bottom, which makes it a bad choice on a greasy day. Country ------------- Ultrabrutal is nice but short (.6, Country) - With a stick clip you could yard up the short 10d above Ultrabrutal's chains and TR it. GM offers some great climbing, the standard classic is to climb the first p of GM (wandering a little, 5.8. Avoid when wet!) and then link the second pitch of GM (steep! #3 camalots) with the 3rd pitch of Heart of the Country. The last bit of HofC is 10a, but if you made it that far just work it out, its a great route! This stuff should give you a really good introduction to Index and an idea for what you are up against when you want to get on other routes.

Colchuck Gl already looking pretty lean in the background there, and its not even August

Couple of thoughts. I am bind as a bat without my Rx glasses, but on a route on Rainier I find it difficult to believe that you really really NEED Rx glasses for the few days you are on the mountain. There are no signs to read, no driving to do. Just wear normal sunglasses. Yes, stuff will be blurry, and for people who grow up wearing corrective lenses that might take a few hours to get used to again. Take the Rx glasses if you must, wear Croakies to prevent loss, or if you are really nervous about loosing or breaking them take them along in a hard case and wear them in emergencies. That said, in 1993 I sprung for a pair of prescription sunglasses because I like actually seeing stuff I look at in the mountains. (I've since lost that first pair and gotten a second pair.) This is a great way to go! Most health insurance plans will cover at least part of the cost. For people who are unsure, getting a pair of cheap glacier glasses that fit overtop your Rx pair might work if you have small wirerims, but I've found these tend to fog up when exercising. The other option is "clip ons" which work in a pinch and are definitly better than nothing.

You shouldnt be so surprised. The Mountaineers Books *are* actually tied to a climbing organization, and as such are not quite so uptight as to worry about a foul word or two buried somewhere in 60,000+ words. The publishers were very agreeable about route names in general

I thought the ante was upped years ago when the complete enchainment was done N Sister->Middle Sister->S Sister->Broken Top->Bachelor in < 24 hours? Its a hella long haul to contemplate any time (I've done most of it in spurts) but I can't imagine not doing on skis in the Spring, its too long to do sub 24 hours any other way.

approach your target alpine lake on skis with a rod and MP3 player?

Assert((260/2) == 130)

Id agree with what alot of you have said. My list would be something like Banff New England Cody Maybe Hyalite depending on what time of year Maybe Colorado if I had alot of cash to rent a car or just wanted to hang at Ouray Lillooet, Washington, Lee Vining are all pretty much "locals" areas (IMO) and don't really register as "destination climbing areas" just .02

Robert, I will take care of your corrections for the next edtion. We published the name as "It Ain't Over Yet, Motherfuckers" I think...? We got it pretty close...? Michael, N F Ruch Cotter is not quite as steep as E Face. You can always submit corrections directly to me and Jason here: http://www.wastateice.net/default.htm

Good times! I would agree that this is one of the best ways to spend 4 summer days in the Pacific Northwest!

I feel a winter ascent brewing.

the hut sux. go with the bivy sac, wander a short way away from the crowds, have a nicer experience.

All I can say is wow! Things sure change. When I did this route only a few short years back, it wasnt a freakin' penitente field, just a smooth steep glacial ice tongue surrounded by house sized seracs. This looks a little less aesthetic

darin, in my experience a small spin-casting set up with some small spinners works fine! the rod is much more portable and durable than a typical fly rod. fly fishing is cool n all (its what I do), but certainly no guarantee of dinner there. its amazing how easily the fish land when there is no regular fishing pressure. PS: call me up if you want some company on your trip!

Sat: read a book on programming, wrote binary searches in C#, C. Posted stuff for sale on ebay. Saw Fahrenheit 9/11. Sun: looked at 8-year old code, refinished a door, tried to remember things about C better left forgotten.