randygoat

if the hammer and adze suck, and they are too light to place with one hit,what's good about them? I used to use CM Axars and retired them right after I tried the BD Rages. Similar design, but the CM would glance off the ice as much as it would stick. I like the heavier weight of the Rage,butthat is just preference. If you have the strength to heft a well balanced,heavier tool, you won't need to swing very hard at all. I feel like I use less energy with the Rage vs. the Axsar. Just my opinion Just like to add, a friend of mine was struggling to get good placements in something under 10 or more hits per stick. She was using some crappy light weight Simond tool[venoms?Viper?], I hooked her up with a set of Shrikes and they made a world of diference for her,now she is following me up 4s. As far as straight vs. bent shaft,preference rules. I learned on those old blue handled,straight shafted Chouinards, and resisted for a very long time switching over to bent shafts. Once I did I havn't turned back.However,if you haven't learned on straight shaft to start with ,you'll probably like the bent better. Enjoy

Hey yeah, the NorthEast has excellent ice for sure, the Catskills are a casual day trip and the 'Dacks are also a long day trip but tolerable. I usually get in atleast 50 days or more of ice climbing staying mostly local. I just would like to check out some other regions, like Cody and Banff. I am blessed to have half decent stuff only about 25 minutes away that I can hit after work allmost any day in season. yeah Ken, La Pomme d'Or is way impressive, and probably out of my leauge. The are some easier routes at Malbie though. I hit all the places you have mentioned often , except Baxter. That may happen this winter if I don't go out west. Cilley-Barber looks pretty nice.

What the F is a snaffle?

I've seen some of what they are protecting. Take my word and head for Canada, Montana, or Colorado. The ice here is elusive, and often snow-covered munge. Fat and blue is elsewhere... We have some reliable ice,though ussually too short , stuff real local to me that is pretty good,some great. Less than an hours drive for most of it. Then 2+ hours away it gets real good,just allways into checking out other areas if they are worthwhile. Never heard of the Northwest as an ice climbers destination area,figured there was a reason for it. Thanks for the info though.

seen upside down on a Jeep..... 'if you can read this ,please flip me over'

how fitting

Thanks Banff,Cody and Colorado are trips I was planning at somepoint. Particularly Cody/hyalite Canyon ,hopefully this winter. Alpine Dave and Speacialed, I hear you bastards on protecting to sanctity of local ice. Keeps the tourists at bay.

is this route ussually pretty crowded?

Climb: worth the trip?- Date of Climb: 7/22/2004 Trip Report: I'm sure it is worth while , but is the ice out in Washington reliable enough to be worth a visit from the East? Or is it one of those you just got to be around at just the right time thing? Havn't heard much about water ice climbing in the Northwest.Just as a guide line of if there are enough routes to be worthwhile,[?] I lead WI 4-4+.Thanks

Huh?

Sounds cool if you have the working space. I've only worked in 2 or 3 on a rope and have always been able to divide it up pretty evenly by yarding out rope at arms span, then doing the math to make it even, more less. Your way does sound good for 4 though.

IIB, still don't have a car? I may be looking for a partner for a day NEXT summer. Probably heading out with my son and friend. We'll be mostly mt.biking and probably climb/hike St.Helens , but I will probably have a day or so by myself ,possibly at Mt. Hood. I'll drop you a line then, good luck in the mean time.

Hey ,Thanks also. I probaly wouldn't consider unroping anyway up there. I've been climbing technical ice and rock for quite awhile now, but I,m too new to Cascades climbing.I've done a bit a glacier travel, but not enough to get cocky and let my gaurd down. I am interested in trying some slightly harder routes though.I just may have a trip next summer, and don't know if we are 2 or 3 yet. Just looking for beta and feed back and nurturing ideas.

Cool, thanks Alex. It is on the list of posibilities for next summer.

is the Kautz often done by 2 person teams. How heavily crevassed is it? It is a line I was thinking about doing.