Alex

The posts in the Events Forum are pretty much of two varieties: Pub Club-type activities, and other events such as slide shows, open climbing events, Rope Up, and so on. The "Pub Club" threads are open to everyone and open to spray and bullshit, because I regularly and frequently remove them from this forum. I don't moderate these threads typically, unless my attention is specifically drawn to them for some reason. The "Events" threads are open to everyone, however I urge you to use some restraint: this forum is not Spray despite my lax attitude towards the Pub Club threads, so in the interest of useful long-lived threads, please keep the threads on topic. While it is the original poster's responsibility to set the tone of the thread (if you dont want people to puke all over your thread, ask them not to!) I am much more prone to help keep these threads clean, so don't hesitate to send a PM to a forum moderator if you need some help doing so. Thanks, Alex

If this is really going to happen, someone pls just tell me and I'll sticky the thread... I'd also like to second AlpineKs sentiment that index has some hard climbing, but there is plenty for beginners to do, if you have someone who can show you where it all it is (the beginner routes are spread out between Inner Wall, Great Northern Slab, and The Country). That said, the after-climb pub situation that Peter Puget brings up is definitely better in North Bend.

catbirdseat, do the different branches run essentially the same trips (like, go the same places, same basic training for the basic and intermediate classes)? are the instructor to student ratios different depending on branch? just curious.

werd

I think I did it left hand in, feet against the right hand wall. There is a great rest right before the thrutching. I had a pack hanging from my harness, though. Admittedly, I suck at chimneying, so squeeze 5.9 moves always feel hard to me.

What a silly thing to say. If trad climbers of the 60s were willing to accept that they were actually getting better than their "there is no harder thing than 5.9" closed system ratings, I think grading in this range would be alot more fair and standard across the board. I think I've climbed enough and in enough places to be able to legitimately question the ratings, thanks very much! Adjusting ratings both up and down on routes is a time-honored tradition: some routes deserve downgrading, some routes deserve upgrading. Its not a radical departure to grade something 5.10a from 5.9, nor is it a radical thing to downgrade a pitch popularly accepted as 10a as "fealt 5.9 to me". Its all just an opinion, after all. Alex

Some great information in this thread. My own experience is that The Mountaineers, Mazamas, and WAC are all revolve around the same experience level and same type of experience. When you start talking about individuals, however, there are many exceptions. Someone here mentioned that BOEALPS (boealps.org), and I also have some experience with that group notably the teachers and some of the graduates, all whom I hold in very high regard. As a teaching organization, I believe the BoeAlps folks are much more progressive than The Mountaineers or Mazamas. Their experience is marked by smaller numbers in a "class", and much less needless structure because of it.

I climbed the route last summer. I would have to say that the chimney pitch is a thrutch, though really short. However, if Meat Grinder gets 10a, it seems like this chimney pitch should also be 10a? It seemed hard for a 9. The last pitch I found easier physically, and the "crux" top section the easiest part of the pitch, but I think even at Index the whole thing would be rated 9+ or 10a.

yeah the cord needs to be smaller diameter than the std 5 or 6mm perlon to grip the skinny skinny ice floss.

right on! if I had a harness in my car I'd take you up on it.

I wouldnt go that far! I think John's TR captures very much the flavor of the route. Johannesburg IS a motherfucker! I cannot adequately describe the feeling of hopelessness and helplessness when cresting the false summit and still seeing the true summit so far away. Mentally prepare for it, if you go. We almost demotivated and turned around. Its serious business. Three times we dislodged bowlingball+ sized rocks on each other on the descent, one of them core-shot the rope. One of the only reasons we made it up and down this route safely and efficiently is because of the several people who tried/did it before and posted the really valuable information here on what to expect (principally Stefan, catbirdseat, and Juan, and Loren for his trip report that gave us some valuable clues about route finding) - I just wanted to add a TR that will hopefully give others a workable game plan if they want to climb this peak. I am impressed that some people manage to get Cascade or the Triplets or Mixup on the way out, we were wiped out.

What part of This info is all second-hand, from a party camping in the area Sat night that talked to the rescue people is unclear, exactly, Brian?

uh huh. The only thing I am getting from you guys is that next time you want some information on something, I am keeping my mouth shut. I thought I made it abundantly clear that what I was posting was hearsay (the quotes, the question marks, the phrase "second hand information") and not concrete facts. For you to be jumping all over my (unedited) post at this time, a week + after the incident, seems pretty odd, no? The details of the situation were posted by Freeman, what more do you need?

Please dont take my usage of quotes as mockery. (Funny how intent in writing can be misunderstood.) Alex

I think pope is going to out the master of all spray, Capt. Caveman hisself!!

126 might be the gate beyond Colonial CG.

Overall this sounds like a better, less crowded route than that to the summit of Mt Marrymoor. Seems like everytime I do my 10 laps around that Cascade jewel, there is some gaper traversing the wrong way!. Pope, you should send in this story to the Stranger (see their recent issue on sexual real estate).

I can't wait for winter!

Moving to spray. As a one-time professional wildlife biologist, I have to say the post is too short to offer any value, and the sources far too meager (you're using Earth First! as a source? c'mon dude) to really take seriously. Wildlife management, and recreation's impact on wildlife is far more complex an issue than can be addressed here (or anywhere on the Internet). There are alot of highly skilled, thoughtful, and passionate wildlife professionals working on the balancing act between humans and wildlife on our public and private lands. Trust me, you will not be able to do a better job than whats already being done. Alex

it is overkill unless you are climbing in the desert southwest. for granite, Ex38, and so on you dont need "a thick 6 inches".

Climb: Johannesburg-East Ridge Date of Climb: 8/14/2004 Trip Report: EJohnson and I got together for a weekend crack at Johannesburg. We opted for a little more conservative approach and went for the E Ridge, rather than the NE Rib (1957), because we didnt know how fast we would/could climb together, or really what the mountain held in store. Our plan was to climb to CJ Col using "Dougs Direct", drop some bivy gear at CJ Col, summit, and back to the bivy on the first day. Rest and then go back out the same way the next day. We left the Cascade Pass parking lot at 4:40 am, in the oppressive heat. It felt like it was 90 degrees at 4am in the parking lot! We got up to Cascade Pass before dawn where a nice breeze cooled us off, and proceeded up and over Mixup Arm to the Cache Gl. Here, we hung a sharp right and climbed a fairly well travelled route to the top of Mixup-Triplets Ridge as per N Ridge Mixup Route (aka "Dougs Direct"). This is a 3rd class scramble, albeit with significant exposure. The downclimb down the other side of Mixup is 3rd class for 800 feet to scree, which we descended to turn the butress coming off Cascade, and ascended to a small bivy site several hundred feet below CJ Col 4.5 hrs from car. The E Ridge route starts from here. The hardest technical move on the entire route comes in the first 10 feet off the snow, as you move from snow up an initially steep white granite "staircase". The angle quickly kicks back and the rock is solid and the climbing on this portion enjoyable. These 120m are the only pitches we used a rope on on the entire route, placing one piece of pro. After the granite staircase, the route moves up steep heather and 3rd class gullys for a long way to the false summit. While there is a significant amount of loose rubble on the route, the rock you climb is solid and route fairly low angle. The route is in some ways reminiscnet of many of the "advanced" scrambles in the Colorado Rockies (like Crestone Needle), just not as well travelled. Erick and I both commented on how this was not what we were expecting. We both had prepared ourselves mentally for something more challenging and scary, technically. Certainly something steeper. I am chickenshit when it comes to soloing exposed technical ground, but the E Ridge route is really no problem anywhere. From the false summit (2 hours from the col) the summit ridge now works depressingly far to the true summit. Don't give up! We were dehydrated and beginning to get fatigued in the hot sun, but pushed onwards. The E Ridge route travels the ridge about 50-100 ft below the crest (S side) from the first false summit to the true summit, along a well-worn path. About an hour. It is not difficult to follow. Just below the summit pyramid, a deep-walled gully is turned at its head (notch). Here we dropped packs and scrambled to the summit in a few minutes. The return down the E Ridge went a little faster initially, as the trip back to the false summit was farily quick. (It was depressing thinking that we had lugged crampons, axe, a technical rack all the way up and down the route never to use them.) As usual, you typically find the best route on the way down, and this was no exception. We found a slightly better way down the first few hundred feet below the false summit to the first rap station, which takes you in 30m past a steep snow slope (only water on route). From here a few raps, never more than 30m long, (2 more?) and downclimbing take you down the majority of the route to the head of the "granite staircase". The descent is fine with a small party, however the risk of rockfall injury increases. Stay close together, be careful when pulling your rope. By this time the large approaching thunderstorms weighed on our minds, and we tried to descend with all speed, without killing each others with the occaisional loose rock. It was sprinkling on and off, but we never got wet. I was on Torment a few years ago when a large thunderstorm decided to try to destroy Johannesburg, and I didnt want to see that up close again. The final granite staircase looks steep, but is no problem once you start down it. We got to our bivy gear at 4:40, 12 hours after leaving the car, and sacked out waiting for the thunderstorms to make up their minds. The return trip, after 12 hours rest and coyotes at 1:20 am, was fine and uneventful. "Dougs Direct" is a great short way to get back to civilization, albeit with 3rd class scrambling as exposed as any you'll do on Johannesburg. Summary: Erick and I don't know why this route isnt climbed more often. While stenuous, its really a great day out in the mountains and not particularly dangerous if you climb close together. Descending is tedious but again stay close together, take turns downclimbing the loose sections, and wear a hard hat. The climbing is never technical and not frighteningly exposed. If you are a competent technical climber, you will be able to quickly and easily solo the route if dry. I'd like to say don't underestimate Johannesburg, its a really really big mountain, but don't get psyched out by its noteriety either. You can manage it; really fit parties can climb the entire route as a day trip. The bivy is really choice - solitude, great views! Gear Notes: We carried a fairly beefy rack, axe, crampons, and 60m 8.5 rope. We used the rope for 3 simulclimbing pitches at the start, but otherwise only for some rappels. Axe was nice for the snow right at the base of the route, but otherwise leave axe and crampons in the moat. Approach Notes: Detailed descent beta: Summit to False summit: travel the ridge line typically 50-100 feet below on S side for an hour. 3rd class. False summit: downclimb easily down a narrow gully skiers right (looks good, and is) to the head of a steep snow patch. good rap anchor off a block. downclimb to next rap anchor a double yellow sling(??) skiers left. next rap anchor is a newer green sling on a horn. a short rap to a small crappy block with 2 old 1" slings. downclimb to one final anchor (new teal sling) to 3rd class downclimbing to the heathery slopes. In most cases you can downclimb all these sections, but you'll love rapping over the first snowpatch! downclimb to head of "granite staircase". Here you can downclimb or rap 3 more times (30m each). a block skiers right (new teal sling) leads to a hidden rap anchor of 2 fixed nuts, and finally a single piton anchor to the snow.

Good job Steve! Thats hella quick!

Very cool. I was looking at this earlier in the year as a secret "no one goes there to do that" and "its granite!" project. Have wanted to check out Blum ever since I saw it from Challenger in 99.

Maybe this will help http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/art/prusiksfaceroute.jpg

Baker and Shuksan are in Vol 3 (Red). Briefly Vol 1 covers: Mt St Helens, Mt Adams, Mt Rainier, entire Stuart Range Vol 2 covers: Glacier Peak, much of North Cascades Park incl Dome, Cascade Pass area, Ptarmigan Traverse peaks Vol 3 covers: Baker, Shuksan, Pasayten Wilderness, Washington Pass and the Wine Spires, Chehalis, Cheam and Anderson River groups