Alex

I hate gear reviews in the rags. they never go out on a limb and say "this product sucks, dont buy it" or "this product is the clearly superior choice" They just want to give you a comparison, typically based on price (like REI fact sheets). Lame. I can do that with Google. Not a huge surprise, since gear manufacturers are paying for the advertisements and the rags dont' want to loose their revenue.

* Second the suggestion for a full-size spare tire. I've gotten a number of flats on trips to Banff now, and with the sleepy-town nature of Radium, Jasper, Banff and Lk Louise you are strongly advised to not rely on a "donut" spare tire for too long, cause you may end up driving on it for a fair distance or a number of days. Kamloops and Calgary are the nearest "major services". *Canadian Tire rocks! Some of the best service I ever got (Kamloops) for a real serious breakdown once. * DO NOT MISS the hot springs. Radium Hot Springs is ultra-cheap, open at night, and a real welcome luxury on a typically cold trip!

good story and glad you are safe! i hear Kor-Ingalls is a chimney sandbag, so you'll have to let us know how it goes.

I havent had time to hunt around the house yet, I will tonight

Driving to Canmore is no prob, unless its snowing hard in which case you'll slow down but not stop. There are several good canadian web sites with current driving conditions in Banff, Jasper, and Yoho that you can check just before you leave on your drive. There are a few things to consider for January, though: 1) the temps are likely to be significantly colder than you or your car are used to. My power steering fluid froze during one drive, and extreme cold can make a car run very cold (the reason why some people block their radiators with a piece of cardboard) 2) make sure your car is in top working condition before you head out. brake problems, clutch problems, old bald tires, anything where you would regret getting broken down in the middle of no where in the extreme cold. My own experience with TransCanada 1 from Seattle is that its slower to Canmore than it is going the Southern route through WA and ID, if you are pressed for time.

check PMs

way to go Drayad and friend, winter alpine suffering awaits you with open arms!

I once met Kiwi at Pub Club and was super disappointed that there was no detectable New Zealand accent.

I for one am personally interested in these issues, but have a hard time finding information on meetings like you describe; they don't seem to be well-published; maybe I am just looking in the wrong places? I think one immediate thing "we" could all do to improve the flow of information about access issues is to agree on some way to publish access-oriented meeting announcements somewhere. It could be on the Access Fund site, here, or anywhere...just *somewhere* discoverable.

speaking of which, on Sat I was at REI flagship and buried in one of the boxes of last seasons gloves on sale were about 4 pairs of BD Ice Glove, XS. Good deal if they fit you well.

Marmot has a few pairs of Freney XT boots left in "normal" size range, on sale for like 220$ (down from 319$ on BD site). They didnt have my size, but anyone intersted in this boot should give them a call asap.

good shot of TLG, work it girl

not to be a naysayer, but going from being a 5.9 leader to a solid 5.12 (onsight) leader in one season,...well, I hope you are planning on not like actually holding a job or maintaining a relationship or anything. I've been climbing with a solid 5.11+ trad leader my last two seasons, and I had the same basic goal you did, mine was to learn as much as possible and finally break out of 5.10 and get into leading solid 11. I got the gym membership, got stronger, climbed alot of tougher routes with my friend, and was able to see the whole progression in action. I came to a number of conclusions: * to climb solid 11 or harder, it really helps to be a full-time climber. * climbing 5.10 or harder (especially at places like Index) is much more mental than alot of people are willing to admit. Many times climbing harder means not only physically harder but mentally more demanding: running it out where the casual weekend 5.9 leader would want to stop and protect something thats making the leader uncomfortable. * you need to be much more careful about injuries. You'll be spending more time in the gym if you stay in Washington (or OR or BC), don't succumb to the common overuse tendon injuries, or rotator cuff, or the other host of problems that gym climbing can cause. * bouldering skills help, try bouldering a consistent V5 or harder * you need very good gear skills. you will be falling alot more on your gear than you currently do at the 5.9 or 5.10 levels. being confident in your gear abilities comes from alot of aid, alot of leading, and alot of falling at the 5.10 level or higher * mentorship is very important. both to set realistic goals (5.12 might not be realistic) and to show you *how* to climb at that level. Its harder than just another number grade. I fundamentally changed some of my approaches to climbing after watching my friend in action. I can honestly say I am a much better climber now, though I *still* dont lead solid 11. * footwork footwork footwork. climbing hard 10 or 11 onsight at Index or Smith Rock will go a long way towards your 5.12 goals hope that helps

FREE to good home: * Ramer Plates. Vintage. I bought them for cheap in 1991 when I was back East, thinking they were the latest and greatest for an aspiring hardman. If you can tolerate them, you can have them. * Fischer <edit>GTSs, 180cm</edit>. No bindings. * 1 Serratus M shelled mitten, black, left hand. Have a mate? * 1 OR XL basic mitten, green, w nice pile liner, right hand. Have a mate? * 1 Head M unshelled fleece glove, left hand. Have a mate? Seattle area, PM me

just a word of encouragement to anyone looking at this boot, they are a great boot and a steal at anything less than 200$ new

Tom, they might be mine

perfect pair of gloves? no. but when you are shelling out major cash for each pair of good gloves, getting a reduced number of combinations seems like a good idea

anyone mind if we put this in the Access forum?

OR has a line called Wild Roses made for women. They have climbing gloves, I bought a pair for my wife and they seem to work fine.

Interesting link http://www.cpc.noaa.gov/products/predictions/long_range/lead01/off_index.html

Jeopardy buzzing sound this next week looks stellar for weather!

Thats a great T-shirt idea "Jesus climbs 10d offwidth, brah"

fine with you until your tax dollars start paying for rescue costs?

Yes. Sorry, I don't know any WA times or channels. I had assumed it would make it to cable in some areas in WA, but I don't have cable personally so don't know how the broadcast works outside of Oregon. Jason and I are supposed to get VHS tapes of the show, maybe we can do a showing at a Pub Club or at the Lillooet Ice Festival or something, if people are interested.

I'd go Salt Lake if * you were really into skiing * you were into good rock climbing, mostly sport near town * you wanted to have good desert options closer, like Indian Creek and Moab for long weekends * you can survive 3.2 beer * you are already married and dont have to worry about dating. * you wanted closer access to Wind Rivers and Tetons I'd choose Boise if * you wanted closer access to Sawtooths * you wanted a slightly "smaller town" feel * you didnt like the pervasive Mormon brainwashed culture of SLC * you wanted to get to the Cascades every so often ("shorter" drive, compare what like 6 hours to 10 hours?)