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Everything posted by Alex
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Taken in another context, can you can see how stupid your argument sounds? No one lives in a vacuum. We are all responsible.
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Netherlands might be flat, but I hear the Alps arent. Europe is small, yeah you wont be doing "weekends to Leavenworth", but week long trips to Cham make up for it. I've been considering a move to the Czech Republic, France, or Switerland. My own country is too damn expensive compared to Czech, and I think the job prospects in CS are about the same.
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enem, dave burdicks trip report has some pics of the current conditions on the approach, specifically one shot taken from the Roush Cr divide. my experience with the approach route and (count em!) 3 trips up that way in November(s) is that its a terrible approach to ski until everything is completely buried...April, May. You break out of the trees at a pretty low elevation, so the snow wont fill in the boulderfields for a long time (perhaps Feb?). Its pretty steep going all the way up, so skinning is pretty tough until after the Roush Cr divide (the first 4000 elevation gain) if you dont have smooth filled in slopes to deal with
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kind of like, oh... a dictator? the day may one day arrive when Dem senators and house members are quietly led out of Congress by red-armed GOP colleagues never to be seen or heard from again i wouldnt doubt it, shit, God's on W's side!
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What bill said. There arent any road issues, late may is already pretty "late" for Northern Cali. The road goes to 7000 ft elevation for the Av Gulch route, which seems high for us here, but its pretty arid and warm there near Shasta, shouldt be an issue.
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I remember Crater Lake as awesome BC skiing, but little in the way of ice.
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bump, for anyone interested
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dont know about snow at the TH, but the road is regularly plowed and sanded for the hordes for tourists, so I wouldnt worry overly much. You WILL have to contend with winter hours for Longmire gate, however. Just be aware that you might not be able to get there at the "crack of dawn" Snow, falling rocks: generally you might bring snowshoes for the travel below Panorama Point, but above that you usually dont need them. The very special danger is white out conditions above treeline. If you have never been up there before and you are going with less than great weather, take a map and compass and altimiter, or a GPS unit. Once you've been there a few times you can work your way down even in low vis conditions, but highly UNRECOMMENDED even for the most experienced.
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Kanaskis Country / other Rockies ice beta wanted
Alex replied to specialed's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
I've done Selenium (or most of it anyway), its actually a really nice route! "selenium falls had a brit die 2 or 3 years ago - abalakov failure. its in the anam." anam == accidents in north american mountaineering as far as scrapping plans, don't worry there's plenty to do (Murchison, Bow, Stanley Headwall to gape, blah blah blah) even when the temps are warmer in the lowlands -
at least he can affoard the 30,000$ fee
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i hear the old orange MSR brain bucket is the item to have if you want to really be in style
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i dont know, check events forum monday or tues, it should be worked out by then. i bet if you brought the remaining screws to pub club you might offload them!
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good deals on the screws you coming to pub club bob?
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the "Quark Ergo" is the leashless tool, looks like it has a big handle on it...thats the one you dont want.
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I learned enough Polish from a friend of mine to know Bob doesnt talk much different in English or Polish!
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If that quote had been made after 1948, I would be amazed. As it is, it's a bit out of context.
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"hard snow if i was mountaineering"? what kind of "mountaineering" are you doing? Mt Rainier? In a word, No. N Buttress Couloir on Colchuck? Yes.
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-3.00, -3.00 or thereabouts. it was very interesting to see the terrorists (Saddam H, Arafat) in the same quadrant and very close to Pope John Paul II, who represents Jesus Christ on Earth to hundreds of millions of people. Eqaully interesting were the concentrations of famous peace makers in the lower left. it was also not surprising to see many current major political starts (Berlusconi, Bush, Tony Blair) in the upper right.... in fact just looking at the charts you might be inclined to draw a simple conclusion Authoritarian Right solves problems by fighting wars, while Libertarian Left solves problems by waging peace?
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pics?
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"Most types of climbing are garbage. Look: High altitude? Boring as shit and you’re too shagged at the end of the day to get into a good scrap, which is the best part of climbing. Sport climbing? Please. Scrawny-assed nancy boys trembling between bolts. Trad climbing? Yeah sure, if you don’t mind how much the wool itches and ignore all the losers. Ice climbing? Boring. It’s only vertical; too fucking easy. Soloing? What’s the point if no one’s watching? Mixed climbing? Too many useless wankers these days. Aid climbing? If I’m gonna be a bleeding carpenter, I’m gonna get fuckin' paid for it. Bouldering? Come on. It’s so frikkin’ boring they even carry mattresses. See what I mean?… Oh, wait a minute there aren’t any kinds left. Okay, mixed climbing then. Try mixed climbing ’cuz I’m better at it than you’ll ever be. " http://www.falling.ca/
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I think you have the Cobra and Viper mixed up ken4ord? The Cobra is def heavy, much heavier than the Quark. Here's my take: grivel alp wing - nice tool, not as much clearance as some others. can get them pretty cheap http://store.yahoo.com/fulfillmentadventures/gralpwiiceto.html petzl charet quark - lightest tool of the bunch, awesome technical waterfall and mixed tool, i wouldnt want it for the alpine due to the rubber "grips" not plunging well in harder snow black diamond cobra - heavy, awesome tech waterfall and mixed tool. i wouldnt use them in the alpine for long approaches because they are SO damn heavy compared to my old skool X-15s
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yeah i hear Grasslands is turning into rowdy party central these days, with beer and music n shit! damn youngsters!
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thanks for the offer! right now my def of suffering is leaving Seattle area around midnight tonight and busting out a fairly committing alpine climb thurs. pretty much all three obj i have involve some variation of this. if this sounds like fun, PM me!