Sorry (I now cleaned out my PMs).
I normally wear around a 42.5 or 43 in boots, depending on the maker. I used to wear a 42.5 Freney (old Freney, before the Pro), and that fit me fairly well. The XT is around the same size, but lower volume toebox, and since its made of tech materials it does not stretch.
I have a pair I am selling, 42.5. They are too narrow for my foot, but otherwise are great boots, and warm. Many days in the rockies and locally in these...
...give up on Index and go to Squamish, particularly the Smoke Bluffs! Dozens of moderate crack routes with good pro and consistent ratings. Too many classics to list - grab your passport, a guidebook and check em out.
Heresy
If you can get it when its dry, Lower Even Steven to Upper Toxic Shock is a good "Index 9" to gain a little confidence.
Other than that, Princely Ambitions p1 is probably the best moderate on the lower wall that isn't too "heady" and protects G. Watch the rope drag though.
Great route! I did this one in Aug a few years ago in the same great condish, agree that it's a III, no where near a IV. Crux M4 sounds about right. Its really well protected though (fat 22cm screw just 15 ft below, and some pins) so was great.
N Face of Fay is soooo short. Skyladder on Andromeda is much lower angle, but there are other routes on that shoulder that would be about similar to NF Atha...
Spider, LeConte: Yang yang is a casual 8-hour stroll from Cascade Pass, so someone who jogged a bit could round trip LeConte in a day easily.
Sinister sounds like an off-the-hook challenge.
Prussik back up to the previous rap station, and try again. There will be something, somewhere, to set up a rap with. Perhaps not in the fall line, and perhaps not at a full rope-length...
If you are moving to Oregon and expect to go ice climbing, I would like to set your expectations very low. There is little ice climbing in Oregon in a normal year, outside of Serac'ing on the N Side of Hood. You will have to drive quite a bit.
That said, if you don't mind driving then you are within easy day's drive of the Canadian Rockies and other destinations for longer trips, and some ice climbing in Washington for weekends.
PS: thanks for the plug Kevin!
There is no melt to put any ice in it, so you'd basically be doing the summer-time moves with more snow and verglas thrown in the mix, in cold temps.
The Linear Accelerator route and other Molar Tooth routes are discussed in May 1994 issue of Climbing magazine.
Alex
I keep forgetting that that is my avatar pic (I have them turned off). But I'll out myself and confess now that I don't use a Bosch. I use a Hilti TE 6A. 36 volts of hole-drillin'-FURY, Dwayner!