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Alex

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Everything posted by Alex

  1. I agree with pope that retrobolting well-established trad routes at Index is a crime worth fighting, but these anchors in particular are not that fight. That anchor has been in place since I started climbing there in like 1995, and for as long as anyone I've talked to can remember. The route is much longer than 35 feet, too. Removing this anchor is akin to removing the massive tri-bolt-and-chain anchor in the middle of GNS, since there is "natural pro" very close by with which one could also establish an anchor, before heading to the top trees. But there is nothing "pure" about Index, so chopping one heavily used anchor, however contrived you may think it is, makes no statement other than that you cannot respect other people's rights to recreate on their own terms.
  2. Yeah, thats a good suggestion.
  3. Frank, mvs has some good trip reports of routes he's been doing in the time since he moved over there. Check them out at http://www.mountainwerks.org/morg/doku.php?id=cma:alltrips_region#europe
  4. Given that the ethics at Index are far from pure, I am surprised that someone decided to be a bolt cop on this route in particular. But perhaps not that surprised, since it was the topic of a thread here in recent history. But it's really no sweat. Some of us have drills (me), and liked that intermediate anchor well enough that it may just reappear again.
  5. thumbs down.
  6. Ade and Colin climbed Nelson route a few winters ago, Ade has some pics of the adventure on his site.
  7. Just FYI for anyone heading to the area: the last pic that Craig posted is not actually Goose Egg mnt, but Kloochman Rock, which is what you are looking at as you climb Goose Egg....
  8. Look like Silvretta 400s on the red Atomics
  9. no Neutrino??????
  10. The weather will be stellar. In the mountains the temps will range from freezing at night, to 60s-70s or warmer during the day. down sweater no hood will be fine. a nice extra layer is like a Pat exped weight top
  11. Alex

    Curling in BC?

    Canal Flats. I am not kidding. The entire town....!
  12. Sorry, its been done.
  13. The rock is rhyolite, not granite. The flake is supported *only* by the vertical edge wedged in the (vertical) corner, it has no support from underneath, top, or one side. I'd estimate the dimensions to be 10ft wide, 15 feet high, and perhaps 3-6 inches thick. Its very impressive. Its very very scary to yard one while climbing, though I've gotten a bit way up it on TR before chickening out. The pic that John posted is cool and all, but thats a slab. This is plumb vertical. You are climbing under this flake for half the route, then yarding on it directly, then doing 5.10 climbing above for the remainder of the route. If it ever came off it would kill your partner, kill you and/or chop your rope, and kill everyone else near the base of this crag.
  14. This has to be just about the most idiotic thing I've read in a long time, so I know it must be a troll, because certainly I can't really be living among people this stupid.
  15. That does look cool. Blue lake looks like a really cool place to camp after Sinister.
  16. Alex

    Curling in BC?

    Kelley Law is hott.
  17. Shiro's is it. I Luv Sushi is more economical, though.
  18. Alex

    Gear On ebay

    I'm not saying it doesnt, ambys; I've sold tons of stuff on ebay. But when I sell stuff I either 1) have tried to sell here and on turns-all-year first or craiglist and gotten no response, or 2) I don't advertise here or any local site at the time of the ebay sale to draw prospective buyers.
  19. Whats the display card on that thing, will it give me Glass, Flip, and Aero?
  20. Alex

    Gear On ebay

    The point of Yard Sale is to offload the goods locally at bro deal prices, not to get the most you can for them from some slob in New Jersey who doesnt know a Ramer plate from a Dynafit brake.
  21. I've gone down that trail/approach, I would never go up it, unless it was at night. No water and no shade for a looooong way
  22. Alex

    Rate the commute

    If you value your sanity, and are considering any east-side-of-the-Lake destination for work, you MUST have unfettered access to I-90 Eastbound without getting onto I-5. Therefore living in S Capitol Hill, Leschi, Seward Park, Columbia, Rainier Valley is vastly pref to Fremont/Ballard. If you insist on Fremont/Ballard then, 1. Abysmal, as you have to battle 520 OR I-5 to I-90 at the least 2. Abysmal, as you have to battle 520 OR I-5 to I-90 to 520 at the least 3. Not bad. Its kind of a reverse commute, esp if you can stay off I-5 Southbound coming home. 4. Terrible. You will have to battle 520. You wont really have the option to take I-5 to I-90. 5. Casual.
  23. great pix, the one of Bo Derek is cool cause you can see...trees!..in the background...and the Seneca shots take me back to SUOC West Virginia trips of yore!
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