Alex

The site is changing hosters (the one hoster bought the other hoster, I guess) and so my account is changing hands. So for the next week or so, I wont be able to update the site with condish. Thanks to those who have been writing in with updates, though, I will get those up as soon as I can...

Bunch of parties showed up and climbed this yesterday, as it was pretty much the only climbable ice in the Icicle. Its difficult calling this 50m *of climbing*, but if you are desperate to swing a tool have at 'er.

pms, who posted here but is likely too modest to spray about himself, seems like a most exccellent candidate as well

You would know.

Especially after there is a winter storm warning in effect Sat and Sun that promises to dump a foot of snow down to 500 ft elevation.

That "climb to the left" is unclimbed, afaik.

See http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=25&Number=746714&Searchpage=2&Main=55998&Words=&topic=1&Search=true#Post746714 for Marble.

Inspiring TR Will! Makes me reconsider Bouldering as a form of climbing!

If you guys can decide on a place in less than 100 posts, I might actually show up.

Check your email

I used to stay at the Akai all the time, and it was great! and it was cheap. Last year or even earlier though the place went totally South and is now a hole run by methheads. We stay at the drake now, or at Rocky Mountain ski lodge which is spacious if you have more than two.

Ship the TR when you get back, yo!

2. Is the NE Ridge suitable for a winter ascent? Absolutely. There's one real exposed move on the route, otherwise pretty basic 4th/5.0. 3. What about a descent route in winter? Can that south gully go? Super casual.

Tim. Let's go send.

I already know this coming Wed I will still be crushed at work. Thurs is a possibility, though. Is the OSB backing in that pic so that to tools won't marr the otherwise pristine plywood?

They get buried when the snowline lowers down. But yeah, early season they can be fun

cool!

Triple Overhang was flippin' hard at 5.7. The 7's out here are giveaway easy.

Jason Martin, one of the authors to Washington Ice: A Climbers Guide, is a professional guide. Perhaps you could procure his services?

Ralph Stover State Park, PA, some ramdom TR on the "Practice Face", 1988 with Derek Hedstrom. I climbed in Vasque Sundowners and some crappy harness, but I had a chalk bag!!! (in fact, the same one I still climb with today!)

Cascade River road is now gated at the Eldorado trailhead. Sibley Pass road is closed at the Cascade River road junction.

come out on Wed night dry tooling sessions for easy mixed action

Trip: Eldorado - E Ridge Date: 10/28/2007 Trip Report: Headed up to Eldorado for another crack at NW Couloir with Rob and Justin. We met Sat am and headed North at a decent yet humane hour. Discussed whether we should head up Sibley or Eldo Creek, until we got down the Cascade River road and Sibley road was closed. So Eldo it was. I've done this approach a fair number of times, but neither Rob nor Justin had so they were in for a treat! Got asked for a permit at the trailhead by Joe Ranger, but we actually had one so The Man had to move on. Busted hump up the approach; it was a nice day! Got to the Roush Creek divide in decent time, where the snow accumulation really started. We had passed by Mike and Jason an hour earlier, as they were on their way down. Rob and Justin working through the boulders towards Eldo glacier. GrOuNd It OuT to the Eldo plateu, where we found stiff 20mph winds, a foot of fresh powder, and the remains of Mike and Jason's camp. Decided that there was some possible shelter from the wind at the base of the E ridge, while here there was none so did the extra 20 min over and found totally snowed in bivi sits. Oh well! Rob set up the beta-lite and Justin dug out one of the bivy shelters, but otherwise we just hung out for the hour before dark. Rob and Alex checking out the wintery scene. Forbidden getting ready for her Winter hibernation. We had decided to probably take a walk in the morning and check out the NW Couloir, but likely climb the E Ridge. The wind strafed us all night. In the morning, we woke up to a lowering cloud deck, and Eldo's summit in and out of the clouds. The winds didn't let up. Forbidden in the morning, around 7am. Suddenly taking a stroll across the glacier seemed a bit secondary to getting up and down anything, so we ate cold breakfast and busted a trail up the soft snow of the East Ridge, to minimalist views. Rob and Justin were fully engulfed in clouds on the summit, but soon we were all heading down. The clouds lowered still more, and now we packed up and tried to get off the plateau and out of the wind. We dropped down the glacier and lost elevation quickly. Soon, it was time to peel layers, then more, then by the time we were in the first boulderfield we were sweating and welcoming the breezes. Made it down the car and back to Sedro for beer and burgers! Nice late season trip to the Queen of the Skagit!

Hey guys, boy you got the weather! You passed us on the way down as we were going up. Nice pics

Pics of Colfax?