Alex

come out on Wed night dry tooling sessions for easy mixed action

Trip: Eldorado - E Ridge Date: 10/28/2007 Trip Report: Headed up to Eldorado for another crack at NW Couloir with Rob and Justin. We met Sat am and headed North at a decent yet humane hour. Discussed whether we should head up Sibley or Eldo Creek, until we got down the Cascade River road and Sibley road was closed. So Eldo it was. I've done this approach a fair number of times, but neither Rob nor Justin had so they were in for a treat! Got asked for a permit at the trailhead by Joe Ranger, but we actually had one so The Man had to move on. Busted hump up the approach; it was a nice day! Got to the Roush Creek divide in decent time, where the snow accumulation really started. We had passed by Mike and Jason an hour earlier, as they were on their way down. Rob and Justin working through the boulders towards Eldo glacier. GrOuNd It OuT to the Eldo plateu, where we found stiff 20mph winds, a foot of fresh powder, and the remains of Mike and Jason's camp. Decided that there was some possible shelter from the wind at the base of the E ridge, while here there was none so did the extra 20 min over and found totally snowed in bivi sits. Oh well! Rob set up the beta-lite and Justin dug out one of the bivy shelters, but otherwise we just hung out for the hour before dark. Rob and Alex checking out the wintery scene. Forbidden getting ready for her Winter hibernation. We had decided to probably take a walk in the morning and check out the NW Couloir, but likely climb the E Ridge. The wind strafed us all night. In the morning, we woke up to a lowering cloud deck, and Eldo's summit in and out of the clouds. The winds didn't let up. Forbidden in the morning, around 7am. Suddenly taking a stroll across the glacier seemed a bit secondary to getting up and down anything, so we ate cold breakfast and busted a trail up the soft snow of the East Ridge, to minimalist views. Rob and Justin were fully engulfed in clouds on the summit, but soon we were all heading down. The clouds lowered still more, and now we packed up and tried to get off the plateau and out of the wind. We dropped down the glacier and lost elevation quickly. Soon, it was time to peel layers, then more, then by the time we were in the first boulderfield we were sweating and welcoming the breezes. Made it down the car and back to Sedro for beer and burgers! Nice late season trip to the Queen of the Skagit!

Hey guys, boy you got the weather! You passed us on the way down as we were going up. Nice pics

Pics of Colfax?

I'll be adding an up-to-date section on Mountaineers Creek to the website complete with pics in the next week http://www.wastateice.net/Guide.aspx

They landed a helo on the top of Sultana recently, though!

I can't WAIT to go ice climbing this year!!

I have: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=10&Number=588803&Searchpage=1&Main=44338&Words=+Alex&topic=0&Search=true#Post588803 got no traxion, then. Obviously, you got the screamin' deal!

Carl, are they sz small or sz large sabertooths?

There are alot of local folks who are up there every or every other weekend. Once the season starts, just ping back in this forum if you don't find yourself with a partner by, say, Wed night of any given week...

There is a "temporary" P&R just South of the one under construction. It's alot smaller than the one they are building, but serves. That's where to meet.

No, the guidebook by Martin & Krawarik. There are a few places near Seattle listed in there, and one that isn't. mconley's coming out Wed I think so he'll see the SR 900 crag first hand.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=330178009559&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=014

Early May is bitter cold on the hill. By early July, the planes can no longer land in some spots due to the glaciers opening up. Hence the season advertised...

If you are advertising for "private" guiding, I hope you have a permit for Rainier.

bump. Met selkirk in the gym today. Got to thinking about scratchin' some rocks up with crampons. Howz Wed night, Oct 24th sound for a DT session?

You mean, besides whats in the guidebook?

TLG, I'm jealous!

Now THAT was a good one!!

Some of that melted by 4pm. With freezing levels going to 11,000 in the coming days, more of it will. That said, I had a great day hiking in the snow today! Bring on winter!

I dont think you have enough packs, kurt!

very proud effort, Bucker in a day is like, a looooong day!!

The difference between "Hard" and "Difficult" is...? Sounds like the English rock rating system.. "Hard Very Severe Difficult E6 B9"

Damn, look at all that skiiable terrain!!

a prussik or two could have helped her get the few feet up she needed to get.