Alex

Get a job hippy! Seriously that looks very scenic! I've only actually climbed at Banks in the winter, I can see how on a hot summer day it would be really stellar climbing and then having so much water nearby.

Gabbi is WAY too nice to you Gene!

Good effort!

This should help. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=2&Number=494005&Searchpage=1&Main=36351&Words=Burgundy+Alex&topic=0&Search=true#Post494005

With skis (if there is snow, doubt there will be enough now...), Elbert and Massive. Without skis Crestone group - Crestone Needle, Crestone Peak, and Humbolt.

Go do Olympus if you get a few days of good weather, you'll kick yourself if you don't.

Dougs direct is an alternate *approach/descent* to the base of the East Ridge on Jberg, not an alternate to the route itself. It lets you climb the East Ridge without having to deal with the CJ Coulouir or the hideous yuckness of the traverse from Gunsight notch. Time from parkinglot to base of the East Ridge route is about 4.5 hours, if you can move at good speed. This trip report has some info, and if you do a "Search" on this site, you'll also find plenty. http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/TRJBurg04.htm

Even though you're looking for partners, you can do almost all of the 14ers solo, they are mostly just hikes. Feck has a good suggestion though, the further away from large population centers, the better. Also, if you are used to Pacific Northwest approaches, even the "long" approaches for some of the 14ers will be cake: always on roads or good trails, with no bushwacking. A great place to go and get a set is Sangre de Cristos, where you can get Crestone Needle, Crestone Peak, Humbolt in one go from camp, and Kit Carson nearby.

Yeah if you thought Index or JTree were rated "stiff" Tahquitz is definitely up there too. I love the place though!

N Ridge of Baker is probably about it. Perhaps NE Face of Redoubt. CW used to call NF Maude alpine ice but I think it gets just too melted out these days. If you want August alpine ice, gotta go to the Rockies.

congratulations on your engagement!

The problem with "mountaineering peaks" right now is that their access trails are a muddy mess, and hoards of folks would damange the wet trails much more so than if the FS / NPS lets them dry out for a few more weeks. If you are looking for good "mountaineering" day trips, there are still plenty out there: Colchuck via Colchuck glacier Dragontail via Aasgard Pass Mt Daniel Any of the volcanoes if you can figure out the access Baker with skis Hood with skis Olympic Mountains many Tatoosh range summits Yellow Aster Buttes/ Tomyhoi with skis

And BoC is definitely nothing more than 10a! Sheesh!

The graph is interesting in another way...from roughly 1940 to 1975, the overall murder rate was way down. Hmmm, I wonder if I could correlate that to another series of events...WW II, Korea, and Vietnam, maybe, when a significant number of our young male population was overseas killing foreign nationals instead of each other? Not saying there is actually a relationship there either, just saying that correlating murder rate to "prohibition and war on drugs" seems pretty far fetched.

what tools, exactly?

I thought Alpinist #0 was the electronic thingy circulated only on the Internet, never realized there was a hardcopy

We're going to make it a little easier too. At some point in the coming months we'll post something with directions to the crag, topos/gear info for the cleaned and established lines (there are about 8 so far).

Far side routes were dry as of Sat.

"full scale VII's under 5.11c/d and WI5+ " Colin and Rollo's Torre Traverse falls squarely into "moderate" then, it seems. How about a more realistic definition of moderate? Something along the lines of * Even on the worst weather day, you won't die on the route * Helicopter or airplane not required to approach it * A reasonably experienced climber can lead it off the couch * Good protection throughout (i.e. no R or X climbs)

I've decended the Perren after climbing up to the Cogan hut with genepires via Scheisse Ledges. The Perren route is MUCH more direct than the S Ledges route and much cleaner, and as far as technical ground at most has probably 1 or 2 shorter pitch of 5.7 on it. We chose S Ledges on the way up because it had no technical terrain and so seemed like we could just go go go without breaking out a rope. On decent of the Perren, there is one major rap over the one 5.7 pitch, but the rest of the decent is unremarkable. That's not to say EITHER of these routes are easy routefinding, though. There is a LOT of scrambling and if you are unfamiliar with the area in general or the Rockies, or have difficulties with loose rock, finding and traversing even these well-travelled routes will be a challenge.

you can't fool me, those are dynafit rigs, telemarker!

Does Kloochman have a complete traverse? The rock is pretty junky, but it sure is a cool looking feature.

Aside from Don's guide to stuff mostly N of the border, there's mine which is guide to stuff mostly S of the border. Washington ice isn't that great and the season isn't that long, but...it's there. It's a little late in the season now, with the only stuff left south of the border being stuff like PanDome. But start kicking around here in first week of November again and you can meet some good folks and get some good local climbs in.

"Met Tvash on the way out...he's much more pleasant in person " More lies.

Strong effort, good job.