Alex

sorry caveman, I didnt mean hardback, just bound....paper instead of bytes and bits... Alex

Dru, I got that issue 0 and thought it was good enough to check it out in the stores when issue 1 came out. But Alpinist is a quarterly, and the PDF pilot thing doesnt work all that well for an annual, the buzz is killed after a few months. Annuals are best hard-bound...? I didnt know that about the financing. I was wondering how they kept it so clean, but thought it was because it was quarterly

This is where we were busted Sat night. At 11:01 pm. How ironic. Alex

Lowell is proposing a "Cascade Alpine Journal", not a "Summary of CC.Com posters Achievments for the Year". Thats simple enough to compile and publish online from the Trip Report forums. "Cascade Alpine Journal" seems to imply something more general, where Mountaineers are not spat on, people who have no internet skills can submit material and expect it not to be lambasted online the next day, and things are more objective Ok, I'll spell it out. I had no say in Beck organizing my "cascadeclimbers.com" Rope Up. I had no say in Beck being my spokesperson to Paul Shell, the Lt Governor and other luminaries about access issues that affect me. But I don't want Beck, with his desktop publishing rig, inkjet printer, and meager Photoshot skillz to publish and potentially trash a good idea. Clear enough for you? I don't want grandiose money making schemes for how to finance something, the less you owe, the better off. Freedom. No, not drunk. Alex

this is a good idea and deserves to be pursued i think it should be hardbound i dont think it should be affiliated with cc.com i dont think any of us on this board should publish it personally content will not be hard to come by if its a yearly publication. there is too much that goes on around here, both reported on this board and not reported on this board, to not fill alot of pages. When you think about including art such as topos, some choice images, and some other artistic flair, you get alot of content very quickly financing could be arranged by a steering commitee, which is responsible for 1) soliciting content 2) choosing content to be published 3) maintianing a relationship with the publisher 4) distribution 5) financing the first edition will make or break you. Some great content, great layout, great availability at a reasonable price will solidify or nix such a publications legitimacy the first year. the steering committee or whatever should not necessarily be made up of climbers. Should have solid accounting and solid publishing skills. Good ideas are good ideas until they end up like the Kalakala

I got my advanced copy in the mail and it looks pretty good. It made me really jones for ice season to start. With the weather we've had lately, I'm getting pretty keen. You'll be able to buy the guidebooks direct off the Mountaineers Books website. Ironically, the route in the cover photo isnt in the guide!!

Saggitarius on TR doesnt feel any harder than any other 10a. There are alot of rests. I think the lower section to the first anchor is technically the hardest part, while the upper section past the flake, despite being a lieback, is fairly casual. Now, ... I said on TR. I've never had the balls to lead the thing. ---------------------------- DCramer, as for BOC being 10c, no. BOC is 10a. I suggested that if you link the 2nd pitch of Rogers Corner with BOC without really resting, you get a pitch that is more enduro and harder than Thin Fingers. Technically, Thin Fingers only has that one move at the bottom thats really tough, the rest of it is just cruiser jams. Just one peon's opinion though. Alex

I think if you link p2 Rogers Corner with BOC, you get a lead that is harder than Thin Fingers (without TFA). I think Thin Fingers traversing in from the right is only about 10b, but that direct move is very thin and makes it harder! Alex

Thanks Ray, thats what I thought too, October 15th.. Alex

Jason and I agreed a long time ago that the route names in our guidebook(s) would remain named as the first ascentionists chose. I'm a closet Vulgarian myself, and like spicy, witty, or downright vulgar route names. Things like "Wetter than Your Wife" and "Harder than Your Husband" are certainly more interesting reading than "The Smith/Doe Route". Mountaineers Books has graciously left the original names as is in our book too. Alex

This is one of the best threads I've ever read. Harry, John, Lowell, Drew, and Ray make it a real pleasure to learn more about the country that I enjoy travelling through! Here's to many more of these!

I have a french one, but am in the process of planning an trip to Europe and would like to borrow or steal any other ice climbing guidebooks people might have to Italy, Austria, France or Switzerland. Please drop me a note if you have something I could borrow, thanks.

You will never get consensus on what is readily protectible. However, I find it ironic and moronic that there are more bolted crack lines in the Icicle than at Smith Rock!!!! What is the Icicle considered, then? My party climbed several routes in the Icicle this past weekend that were an absolute tragedy, with closely spaced bolts protecting what would be very reasonalbe trad or mixed routes. Case in point, the 5.8 route at Stone's Throw. The 5.9 would go on gear too, or at least mixed after the first two bolts. I'm all for developing an area, and am (somewhat) thankful for all the work that the locals have put into their route development, but some of this shit is way overboard. Alex

Teehee, so clever you are! You can belay a leader if you want to, Beck, I was just pointing out that other climbers, less knowledgable than you and clearly not as well informed, have discovered and moved on to a belay device that "does all that" but weighs half and is smoother to operate. Have fun with your new GiGi!

Calico Tom Kidd makes me sound like a cat

Yes, it belays... seconds Yes, but clearly one of us has not tried belaying a leader with a GiGi yet! I would like to state for the record that yes, I am a climbing dumbfuck! All in favor say Aye.. "Aye"! uh huh, and I believed all the sob stories my customers told me when they were returning climbing gear, too I just knew it, I knew thats why you didnt call!!

Much brush. Tom Breit (AlpineTom) had a trip report of it with pictures at one time, but I wasnt able to find it...

This is very similar to one of the main themes of the Tao Teh Ching

A Reverso weighs half what a GiGi does, and you can belay a leader with it too.

whats NF Shuksan like this time of year?

Perhaps we need an employment forum, to go along with the new rock climbing forum.

Perhaps we need an employment forum, to go along with the new rock climbing forum.

Definitely not Foraker.

I found that doing the S Ridge of Tormet to gain the upper face and the entrance to the traverse was kind of a chore and not really worthwhile, and I would rather climb direct up the SE face next time. Alex