Alex

How about 1-90 bridge, mid span?

Actually, there is one I failed to mention but worked out well enough for my friends Dennis and Jeff: day 1 Camp at Stuart Pass (no water). day 2 - no bivy gear, go up, over and back to Stuart Pass. morning of day 3, hike out. Its a long day, but you only carry climbing gear, no bivy gear. The final grind back up to Stuart Pass is a bitch, but at least you dont have to go all the way out.

Yes, you'll be decending off Buckner back down through Horseshoe Basin, on the other side of Ripsaw ridge. while this climbs back up to Sahale arm, it goes no where near the Boston Gl. again unless you want to re-climb Sahale to get back to the Boston. I think the common 2-day strategy for this route is camp high on Sahale arm day 1, up and over Sahale, to Boston-Sahale col, down to glacier, traverse Boston Glacier, climb route, decent, back up the arm to camp day2. To be honest, I think that the very long 1 day strategy might be better: up and over sharkfin col, traverse Boston Gl, climb route, decent, get back to Cascade Pass, collapse and snooze a few hours, then head down. Long day, but less distance travelled, less weight carried. Just some thoughts

Car-to-car in a day is pushing it for the average team, however there is really no reason you shouldnt summit on day1. If you get an early enough start, you can approach from Esmerelda basin to the notch on NR in about 6 hours. After that, allow around 6-8 hours on the route to the summit, if you by-pass the Gendarme. If you do Gendarme, add an extra hour or two. Regardless, you can be on top the first day, and there are nice bivy spots on the summit. The route is very straight forward, and the difficult sections are short. The route is also shorter than guidebooks might lead you to believe. Theres a few different strategies: car-to-car in a day into Goat Pass day 1, bivy, up over and out day2 into the notch day1, bivy, up over and out day2 to the Gendarme day1, bivy, ... to the summit day1, bivy, ... As far as a Bibler, dont take it. There are not spots large enough on the ridge, really, except the large platform at the base of the rappel off the NR into the gully at the base of the Gendarme, and this is exposed to rock and icefall so not a great place to linger. If you have fine weather, the bivy will be awesome.

Poor poor grammar amigo. "It's if I don't speak English? They are an automatic distributor of tickets that speak French? bwahaha" clearly JGowans doesnt speak french, but he took it in 8th grade.

nice Chuck!

awesome!

Enchantment lakes plateau is snowy, all the lakes are still frozen and snow covered. It was sunny and warm up there all weekend..really sunny, really warm! But also very windy out of the sun.

Another for Saggitarius

The bolts themselves are stainless, however someone decided to go cheap and use non-stainless hangers and nuts.

That approach is fairly mild, though, when compared to anything other than Exit 38 or Lower Town Wall. No, please dont. The runouts are a part of the area and are part of the routes. The initial run-out to the first bolt on the first pitch of Online is actually probably the longest. The climbing is not hard, its mental. If you dont like it, dont climb there. There are plenty of other places for you to climb. The anchor hardware is mixed. The anchors atop the first 2 pitches are quite good. The anchor at the top of the 3rd pitch is OK (1 3/8th, 1 1/4 in, one rusty spinner not part of the anchor), and since you get really good gear 10 ft above the belay, there is little need to beef this anchor up any further. If you are really freaked, you can tension right to easy climbing, then climb back left to place gear. I have climbed this pitch in the rain, its really not that bad. The anchor at the top of the 4th pitch is not partcularly good, and I would love to see the 1/4 bolt here replaced, so that if you fall on the 5.8 to the first bolt on the pitch, the anchor will hold the factor-2 fall. When TimL and I climbed OnLine a few weeks ago, we discussed coming back to do this particular bit of work ourselves. Yes, but the potential for serious injury is part of the game at Static. If you want well-protected slab climbing, you should not climb at Static, but you might find Silent Running at Darrington more your speed. Static is NOT SPORT CLIMBING. It is as far away from sport climbing as Index trad routes are. You need good gear placement skills to get up almost all Static Point routes, whether there are bolts or not. I and most others who head up there have alot of fun on these routes and dont find them particularly dangerous (if you think OnLine is runout, wait to you climb Offline!). Please dont add any new bolts. Alex

left this at Nevermind on Saturday afternoon, yellow Nalgene Lexan bottle in black Mountainsmith water bottle holder. PM me if you picked it up, thanks!

I climb at Index fairly regularly, and would love to see some of the growth selectively and thoughfully cut back. Kurt has the skillz. I guess the only thing I would suggest is open a dialog with whoever the land manager is for where you intend to work, and make sure they're ok with it. If they give the OK, I think some "management" would only serve to improve the area.

what happened to the math syllabus??

I think that last pitch on Methow route is much better than any pitch on Cordorphamine, though, regardless of what the approach pitches are like. Both routes sport a number of forgetful pitches.

Robert Jordan fan? The route is Methow Inspiration Route, and a topo can be found in Brian Burdo's N Cascades rock guide (which is probably why you thought he put it up) Alex

There's a pic of you drytooling at Cascade Crags in the guide, Kia.

I think thats 5.8===D

Dryad, you have alot of patience. Mine would have run out in about 5 minutes. Darwinism is your friend in these situations: if things are obviously not working out, then its time to jet and let the bears, pumas, and rednecks take care of business. fun read!

hey Bug, what kind of bindings are the "Mountaineering bindings" ?

rock on!

is it? guess i was drunk or somethin then.... The first couple moves off the belay there on the 2nd pitch of Yard Art arent 5.8 unless you are really tall or something, IMO.

If you have ever tried to find Static Point per Smoots book, you'd know he's full of crap and inaccurate. Really? I have found his information to be pretty reliable, and even though I already know the approach to Static, his information doesnt seem to be wrong to me. I guess I'm a little defensive because I know how much effort it takes to put a book out, and there are always inacurracies no matter how hard you try. Jeff tried to cover alot of ground with that guide and succeeded as well as anyone could.

erik, I believe you've actually been exposed to the bright yellow of that particular hawaiian shirt the lower climber is wearing.

erik, you finally got laid?