Alex

I just broke a yellow alien in a fall at Index few weeks ago. It was a little scary, considering I've taken two 20+ footers on Mr Blue Alien.

Sahale is good for that. I would take a rope though. If its as broken up as when I did it, it might be nice to have so you can short rope her down a steep snow slope if the crevasses are yawning. Despite what everyone else is saying, I think there is plenty of proof out there that wimmin take to alpine climbing, given enough time, good climbs, and teaching from someone other than a SO. If you really want her to like alpine climbing, I suggest you start off with easy alpine rock climbs on good clean granite, with less or even zero snow work, and go from there. Tuolumne, Washington Pass, Bugaboos, Wind River Range, Tetons, the like. It will be the closest to normal if she has already climbed rock before...just climbing in the mountains is all. Prussik Peak W Ridge is great for that. So is Ingalls etc. If she likes that stuff, then you can do more mixed things afterwards. I just think that the Cascades are a bit on the grunt side for anyone to like them as a lasting introduction, especially if the girl isnt really into the approach aspect of it initially

Yes, there was a thread on this very topic that I started last summer, asking the same questions. At the time I was planning on just doing the traverse, no peaks, in 2 days or less. Ultimately, I went and tried it for myself this past July with a 3-day window. The traverse is easily done in 3 days with no peaks and good weather. You can get to Yang Yang or further on day 1. If you want to go further, you must get to WRL or you will not have easy water. Yang Yang in 1 day was very manageable, about 9 hours from the car moving a little slow. I know you don't want to hear this, but in retrospect everyone who told me to take more time was right: this traverse is awesome, and it was really fun travelling fast; but the next time I go I want to take 5-6 days and climb some of the fantastic peaks along the way. It is worth the vacation time, totally worth it. Alex

this coming from the land of MEC, which gets special tax consideration etc etc

that sucks, I always liked Frank and his place

you can TR sugar bear (10c) from the top of first pitch of Rogers Corner you can TR Rogers corner p2/breakfast of champs (with a 60m or 70m) by climbing GNS then hiking steep trail up and around to anchors you can TR a nice 11b arete from Toxic shock anchor, or traverse right (5.0) to set up Even Steven you can go to Index on weekday, easily aid Thin Fingers with a bunch of cams, then TR it free you can rap off the top anchor from GNS to the top anchor or Terminal Preppie, and TR that I recommend you stay with Clint Cummins guide and just learn it really well, you'll start seeing other stuff to do as you get more familiar with the area.

I had a 1987 Toyota 4x4 LE Cargo. I drove it for about 4 years and I was over 200k miles on the original engine and tranny the day my water pump broke on 520 bridge during rush hour. I decided no way was I going to let my WORST FEAR BE REALIZED, so I kept driving until off the bridge and summarliy killed my engine. I still sold it for 2k+ to a guy who wanted it for the body and 4x4, and had an engine lined up. He restored the car, fixed some body panels, and now its hot! hot! hot!. The problems I had with the vehicle were the usual clutch and brakes stuff associated with any used car with high miles, but I didnt have any engine trouble. I bought the van specifically because the VW was underpowered, I couldnt affoard a Eurovan, the Toyota had 4WD, and because I hate having to crawl into the back of a pickup when pulling off the road at night. Its a unique vehicle, very well suited to the needs of a road-tripping climber.

I didnt have any negative experiences with my van, despite DFA's rant here. OK, I had one: -30C in the Canadian Rockies with a Toyota van does not work well, as two ice climbing partners can attest. I also had a very good Toyota mechanic who kept the machine working well. When I sold the van and got my Honda, I was very disappointed because the mechanic didnt know Honda, so now I don't have a mechanic. But its a Honda, so I don't need one!

I had a 68 Westfalia for a while and it was ok. It was the best sleep I've ever had, actually! The brakes were drum in front, drum in back which was bad. In 69 they went to disc brakes in front. It was easy to fix, but broke down like clockwork every 500-600 miles. erik is right, though, that a non-westfalia bus will serve you just as well and be lighter. I'd like to add that you can do just as well by buying a Toyota or Nissan van. I had an 87 Toyota 4x4 van for many years, and it was ok, better than the VW. Didnt break down ever. But not the same engine as in the smaller pickups of that era, so the engine does not last as long. I learned that the 4x4 is really not required, unless you are doing alot of snowy winter driving. They have almost the same clearance as a bus, but are not as roomy inside. They are easier to drive, however.

while Fri was an OK travel day, Sat it rained until about 11am. We decided that we could get to White Rock Lakes with the time we still had Sat, but we were not sure about getting all the way to Itswoot. We wanted Dome, but also wanted to set up for a manageable day Sun with the car shuttle. We figured going from WRL all the way out Sunday was a pretty big unknown b/c of the potential for getting lost maybe doing the schwack in the dark. It was an extremely tough decision to turn around and retrace, but all of us thought it was a good one.

We got as far as Yang Yang on July 4th weekend. Ptarmigan Traverse Pictures

I'll be heading over this weekend, maybe I'll get to climb something cool! I will let people (mvs, timl) know conditions when I get back. There is an off chance I might be in the rockies the 10-16th, too.

I'd like to nominate this for the cc.com quote hall of fame.

you mean the undercling to lieback flake to the nice fist crack? oh wait no, I meant 3rd p GM. The 2nd pitch is SO short, man, if that went on a while longer it would be doubly cool. I like Heart of the Country and all, but the big swinging solid wide stuff is pretty damn fun!

It's Paul Harvey!!

that approach thing on the right side of GNS- Index (4th) Fault - Castle rock (6) p2 Beckey Route - Liberty Bell, WA Pass (6) p1 chimney variation on Stanely Burgner (7) S F Prussik 7 Virgins - Vantage (7) Aries Chimeny - Index (8) 2nd p Town Crier - Index (8) 4th p Stanley Burgner - Prussik (8) 2nd p GM - Index (9) 5th p Stanley Burgner - Prussik (pleasant 8 -> hard 9) Pressure Chamber - Snow Creek Wall (10d) Carnival Crack - wide OW to chimney, topropable (10d) I think Midnight has some too. Alex

Ah yes. Seattle is home to the famous Robbins Company, which specializes in massive drilling equipment for things like the Chunnel. A friend of mine worked for the Robbins Company at one time, and said their equipment was just incredible engineering. Mr Robbins races in venues around the world in the locally-based, Bob Perry-designed 65 foot racing sloop Icon, which took 2nd at Sydney-Hobart last year.

erik, is your foot about sz 9? have your worn these before? they are sized a little small (like all sportivas I've tried, I guess). I will bring them to pube cube. if they fit we can haggle a price, but I paid like 75$ for em a few weeks ago (at Marmot ) so 25$ seems a little lean

hrm, errr yes I could see where that would be a very hard thing to do. Of course, by her own admission I believe thelawgoddess did not actually win the "Girls of CascadeClimbers.com" beauty pageant. Which, err, doesn't stop any of us from, um <sweating>, climbing, uhhh with her.

brand new. dont fit me well enuff. make offer.

I have the TOPO product, and the software is a bit buggy and can be very slow/lock up. When it works ok, its a nice product, but I would have to say about 30% of the time it doesnt work ok.

On the first point, I couldnt agree more. Land stewards who are not interesting in knowing about the land they are stewarding over should not be coming to work. I experienced this at Leavenworth RS the other day, when I was looking for a map that might hightlight some BLM land holdings south of Wenatchee. They couldnt quite wrap their noggins around the idea that someone might be interested in a map beyond the standard Wenatchee or Baker-Snoq National Forest map, or where to get one. The ranger districts I've worked for in the past did not have stagnant-minded people working there, perhaps I am spoiled in that way. On the second point, while many people might go up in arms at the first mention of "Europeanizing" or "Canadizing" United States wilderness, I agree a hut system for climbers and skiiers of the type you mention would only benefit us all, including the ranger-types. I think the jury is still out on what is better: concentrated heavy impact or wide spread light impact in the Alpine. Anyway, I have always wondered at the surprising resistence to any type of hut that you get in the lower 48. The hut system in Canada and in the Alps is really awesome. However, the precendent has always been "no huts" in the U.S. I think primarily and directly due to the Wilderness Act for National Forest lands, and the fairly strict policies of the NPS for lands that fall under their jurisdiction. Whatever...

You were not "questioning" them in your post, you were insulting them, calling them all tools, nigga's, telling them to clean "their" toiloets. Then I guess we should raise your taxes so they can make better money, huh? These people do what they do because they love what they do, they love the land. The money isnt their motivator, its harrassing punk climbers

Erik, Forest Service is Dept of Agriculture, while NPS is Dept of Interior. I have worked for both in the past, too. Unless you've been on that side of the fence, shut up. Alex, sticking mearly to the point that most people would rather *not* be harassed in the wilderness, I would agree that the last thing I want is some ranger, irregardless of which branch of government he is employed by, bugging me. The point is to get away from people, not to be sought out and questioned. If you are in BOSTON BASIN, arguably the most popular place in the park, for a little solitude, you have gotta be kidding! The point of permits there is the same as in the Enchantments, to put a throttle on the impact CLIMBERS (you dont see too many tourists make it to BB, they have Cascade Pass) have on the area. They rangers are there because its part of their job, not because they are out to get you. If you dont want to be bugged by them, get your permit, display it for the 3 sec it takes, and sail away.

Its fun if you stay off the highway and take Still Creek Road instead. Really pretty ride.