Alex

knock yourself out. the last guy that got on the route got a heel spur through an arm. howzzat for anarchy?

There was a pic posted in the ice climbing gallery (by wazzumountaineer?) of Gib Wall a few weeks back.

fluffy pow on rock good skiing back there Sat!

For Sale: Lowe tricams: .5,1,1.5,2,2.5,3,3.5,5 - sold as a set Hexentrics: 7,8,9,10,11 - sold as a set Hexentrics: 8,10,10 extra (one of the 10s didnt make the pic) Wired Hexs: 1,2,3 - as a set WC Rocks: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 - as a set WC Rocks: 1,1,1,3,4,5 extra BD stoppers: 3,4,8,11,13 extra Camp nuts: 6,7 extra WC rigid stem friends: .5,1,2,3 - as a set CMI Rock Jocks: green, yellow - set 40+ pieces in all Make offers. 100$ takes the whole shizzle.

On this route in particular, its because there are currently no lead bolts in place, only an anchor, and approaching the routes from above or from another anchor is tedious and dangerous. There is another route in the area (to the right, on Bryant Buttress where Hotline forms) that also has a rope and draws in place. This is a redpoint project. Here are some pictures from Saturday Rap Wall The route and rope Stephen Ramsey was asking about. TimL on the exit moves of the center route.

Its a new anchor for a fourth route on that wall. I believe the rope is actually Roger S's. We knocked and scraped the ice off it and TRed the route, it was fun, around M7-.

went out and played in alpental valley. was hoping for a clear day, it turned out to be ok in the am, then clouded over and got colder by the early afternoon. nothing in the lower valley is in, though things are trying to form. two dudes we met under Alpental Falls (Alpental 1) said that it had been in much better shape 2 weeks ago. we proceeded to the source lake bowl, and traversed past a forming source lake line (looking like it might get fat this year) to the start of "Thin Slice" (a route not in guide, but will be online at wastateice.net shortly). After floundering around in the deep snow trying to approach the upper pitches, we bailed and joined some others we knew at the Rap Wall. Good time was had by all.

thanks for the update! I almost went over with the snomo today, and the rain here in town deterred me...now I am glad I didnt go as far as the travel through those boudlerfields, yeah its better when there is no snow at all or enough heavy/consolidated snow to make it smooth sailing with snowshoes on, though if the ice is in, it usually makes it "better"

I wonder what "good news at work" would be to a sex industry worker ...?

From West to East Golden to Field - An hour Field to Lake Louise about 30 minutes Lake Louise to Banff about 45 min + Lake Louise to Bow Summit about a little less than an hour Lake Louise to Saskatechewan River Crossing about an hour and a half? Banff to Canmore about 30 minutes Canmore to Calgary about an hour Alex

Takes a really long while to get to any where, there is no "big water" nearby not even something like Horsetooth Res, its really flat even with the Rockies fairly close by. Its still a long long haul to Pinedale and Jackson. I just think it would get pretty old quickly, but thats just me.

I lived in Ft Collins, CO (pretty close to Laramie). I would probably not opt for that again, having lived here. But there are worse places to be.

JoJos is the standard. I think there is a separate guide specifically for mixed climbing.

Buy the guidebook!!!! It has everything you need!

A .22 rifle with a scope could easily take out some tires from a safe and secure location, eh? Then no one is going anywhere

I've never understood why "heros", who are almost always elevated to such status by accomplishments, and not character, are still respected after they have shown that their character is lacking. This is not a slam on Alex Lowe in particular, but on all those people out there who are ego-driven condescending assholes when in the company of others they find somehow inferior. Its not always expressed, because everyone has some notion of social skills, but it seems even so that we see this attitude everywhere: professional sports athletes, the dude cranking 13s at Smith who puts down the "gumby" 5.10 slab mongerers, the guy bouldering in Redmond gym who ignores you because you cant send V6. When you register the attitude and point it out to someone else, you *always* seem to get "yeah but man they climb soooo hard!! Didnt you hear, the guy just got off EL CAP!!" <drooool> My heros are the people who have somehow remained humble in spite of the accomplishments that put them at the forefront of their chosen professions or hobbies. My heros are the dudes who climb way harder than me, but still find pleasure in going climbing with me, not out of pity but because I'm a fun person to climb with, and without putting me down for my (lack of) ability. My heros are the guys who, once they had families to support, scaled back their ambition and stayed alive, rather than live their selfish passion-driven dreams.

any idea what shape sorcerer or murchison is in? how much snow fell?

I'll buy

I have 3 mismatched ice tool leashes. Sell individually or 20$ the set. PM me please. The goods: Smileys leash: nice leash (best of these 3) thats similar to a Wild Things leash, but made of flat webbing not tubular webbing. Very easy operation with mouth, and doesnt freeze like the Wild Things tend to. 10$ Grivel: this is their standard "cinch down" leash. Its OK but is "hammer" operated, not mouth operated. Better for people with small wrists, who are already used to using these. 10$ Climb High: a basic mountaineering axe leash with a metal ring cinch down. Could be used for a third tool. 5$

cool! I would save your "approach mojo" for Strobach for a few weeks and try again the first week of Dec. I've been up there around that time several separate years (Sad Cebu, Suddun Change, First on Left, DropLine, others come in earlier than the majority) and though I have never actually climbed mud, its going to remain "thin" until its been cold and there has been some snow .. January? What makes this year different from last year is that there has actually been precip to feed the climbs. Last year it was bitter cold, but no snow until January...bad for Strobach. Anyway, awesome that you are getting out there, its a real cool area!! Alex

cool. is there enough snow down low on Tieton River road to approach via snomobile, or does the snow start higher up only?

geordie, might be, Jason would know for sure. You can use this page to submit new routes http://www.wastateice.net/newroute.aspx Alex

This is a fun route, not very hard, but definately not waterfall ice, and not really a winter route. Getting up to Colgan Hut would be a pain in the ass too. More of a summer line, I thought, but I could be wrong. you are right. Doing N Face of Fay in winter would suck up 2+ days of your schedule, for 3 pitches of steep snow.

I agree with fern that this should be one of the three days. The other two should be occupied by one of these: Professors Louise Falls Weeping Wall Polar Circus depending on avalanche conditions Probably not, unless you and partner are in really really good shape. However, two of these with a shorter day in the middle would be reasonable. Alex

nice pic!