Alex

Sounds about right.

I think its trying to get away from JayB before it becomes a "kermit", if'n you know what I mean.

If you mean the original aid crack, its been freed at MHard. Alex

I tied into the rope with trask, once.

good effort!

Which edition? The 3rd edition? Its touched down a number of seasons since 1994.

Lambone, it may have fallen off or I just didnt see the thin cigar all the way down (more likely).

I was just checking that stuff out again yesterday, man Experts Choice looks really cool.

that looks cool Use this: http://www.wastateice.net/newroute.aspx

Johnston Canyon

Dale, I dont know. Canmore got some, but it was so warm Sat alot of it melted. It fealt like Louise and points N got raged on, and Canmore and points E got much less. Still, the winds were very high Sat (typical Chinooking) and I bet some drifts are forming with whatever snow made it that far East

Mark, I dont remember, though Paco did Carlsberg last week so he will know for sure. I didnt drive through Field (I went through Radium) or I would have more info.

back from a long weekend in Banff. Synopsis: a huge dump (50cm in Lake Louise and at Bow Summit) of snow on top of an already large snowpack for the month followed by unseasonably warm temps on Friday have left the entire range in typical Christmastime Chinook conditions: avoid anything at all threatened, avoid anything low angle. As a result, your options for the next bit are limited. The Bow and Columbia Valleys got significantly less snow. Temps were normal Sunday, -10 or so at night and -3 or so during the daytime. Details: Lots of familiar faces up there this time of year, including Layton, Ade, Colin, Wayne, Don Serl and co., Paco, others SouthGibraltar Wall in and nice. Stanely Headwall shaping up nice. Field I heard Mt Dennis and especially Carlsberg is as fat as it ever was. With the new snow Carlsberg is one of the safer places you can still go. Louise Louise Falls only left hand pillar is in, right hand pillar collapsed this past week. Johnston Cy is sort of in, with Prism and the far right in fat but none of the other inbetween pillars down. Bow Valley You now have to park about 10 min down the road to climb at the Junkyards. Junkyards have typical amount of ice. Banff Nothing on the Trophy Wall is down. Cascade is in but only a loon would climb it now. Parkway Snivelling very thin, Weeping Wall is in, but Left is buried in snow and/or very thin, Center in 5+/6 shape, Right in 4+ shape (styled by your boys Colin and Wayne on Friday, right before they shut down the highway for two days due to snow accumulation!). David Thompson Michael Layton had a look at Nothing but the Breast and said the bottom pitches were now gone, and that Two Oclock was a snow climb. Gib Wall, nice climb but flat tire. Weeping Wall, what it really looked like the day we climbed. Junkyards (the day I went to fix the flat)

Climbed Gib Wall Thanksgiving Day. In good shape and fun! See Pic http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB28&Number=281288&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&fpart=1

"vintage Chouinard..." "Alaska picks..." Are these X-15s without the BRS?

Its not bad at all. A little sequency but really only 10c and very short. I nominate the Pressure Chamber pitch as ultra sandbag at 10c/d.

hehe. I am currently in the other window, making these routes visible Gimme a few minuites, sheesh!

Check out http://www.wastateice.net/ Alex

Only bolted routes. Crack routes/traditional routes are up for grabs by anyone and anytime because there is little/no investment in time (cleaning/drilling) or equipment (hangers, studs, chains).

Oh go crawl back to your sunny trad climb, pope!

Alright. I'll give you the benefit of a doubt and actually believe you are just visiting from out of town. My guess is you are just Dru, but whatever. The Mountaineers book of "rules" is one organization's world view. It doesnt cover everything, nor does it represent the climbing community. It's common courtesy to let the person who set the route try to redpoint it before publishing information about the route, its suggested rating, or its location. This is true for new route development everywhere in the United States and Canada.

I see you are so smarty pants. Just because you make fun of poor hapless Mounties doesnt mean shit moron. What is your point anyway? My point is that you are just uneducated. No one really cares that much about whether you think the shit is free game or not if you poach routes, just like no one cared what Ken Nichols point was after he started chopping the shit out of the East Coast. This thread really has no point at this point, so after this point the thread will pointlessly be pointed in the Spray direction.

BOLTS

alright, send me an email at recompense_AT_hotmail_DOT_com