Alex

If you mean the E Arete, yes, its quite easy to do in about 10 hours car-to-car if you go the std approach (whats that called, Roush Creek? Eldorado Creek?). Pre-scouting the first 1/2 mile in daylight will help you in the dark in the moring. Start super early so you can do most of the approach (about 4-5 hours if you are light and fast) while its still cool. Poles help at times, but the trail is steep enough especially through the talus that they dont help other times. Take crampons and an axe. The glacier is real, but typically an easy fairly benign route can be found if you are solo.

Black Cat sucks ass Casa sucks ass ever since they stopped selling Ben and Jerrys 3B has always sucked ass The place to go, without a doubt is La Pinata!

I think anyone who was training for the greater ranges would 1) either be able to figure out the forecast or 2) be going up there expressly for storm fun fun fun! But whatever. Alive climber are better than dead climbers! Good job to the party getting down. Alex

Thats a long traverse, so home will be wherever you hang your hat. Assuming you start at the Eldo side, you'd approach and climb Eldo on the first day, maybe camp at the base of East ridge there, then take about a half day to get in the vicinity of Buckner. I guess if you were in shape you could get up Buckner on the second day, camp on top? Then head out on day 3? I dont know if there is a route on Eldo comparable to NF Buckner. The steeper snow routes on Eldo arent really that steep or long.

PM me

"Newbie question, what is this? Tieing knots in rap webbing to jam in cracks as opposed to slinging? " Yes, find a nice constriction, tie a knot in some webbing, sling like a chock. Works awesome in the right spot.

also there: kiwi, fence sitter, paco, bug, gary yngve, chuck, klenke, jerome, gregm, alex, catbirdseat, cheri and jean (fine lurker women whose "real" cc.com names are a mystery to me), and some others i either didn't meet and/or don't remember ... I remember mattp and Diane, Dave_Shuldt, AlpineK, Aldesair, Ade, Alex, thelawgoddess, Kiwi (who isnt a New Zealander!!!, we should just start calling him "Mango"), catbirdseat, ChucK with mini-ChucKs, Beck, jerome, thatguy, (cheri and jean post?)

The river ford for Whatcom Pass is a cable thingy across the Chilliwack. No wetness.

good luck finding that in a decent location.. I guess if you want to llive in Tukwila or sumthin'....

Sure did. Chicks do that to ya.

Bleh beacuse a.) The Easy Pass route sucks b.) The Eiley/ Weiley route sucks c.) You don't like long alpine routes No, "bleh" because I wrote up a response, then re-read the thread, and realized my response really wasnt needed. Everyone has their own opinion on why to go one way or another, but I would much rather go up Whatcom Pass than any other way, incl Access Creek or Easy Pass. The approach is straightforward on good trails with water the entire way. I would suggest something similar to jhamaker's fine game plan---> Day 1: Chilliwack Lake or Hannegan Pass to Whatcom Pass. Very manageable with a very early start. Not that much elevation gain or loss, good trails mostly easy to follow, water on the way, mostly shaded in the forest. Camp. Day 2: Traverse around Whatcom to Perfect Pass (it only takes a few hours) then climb Challenger (only another few hours). Then back to camp. This is an easy day. Day 3: Out. Forrest and Wayne have a good suggestion, though, if you have more than a 3 day weekend. Whatcom Peak looks really cool from all sides, and climbing it would be cool. The Easy Pass approach might be better for this. If you want to climb Luna, I still think the Whatcom Pass approach is a good one. Instead of camping at the pass, take all yer shit to an hour below Challenger summit, drop it, tag summit, and head over to Luna cirque (not recommended in later season when the snow cover is gone). Then go out Access Creek. Going out Access Creek is much easier than coming in Access Creek. Just .02

bleh

I'm with trask, iaxx is hopelessly outmanouvered here. Sandbox, child. minx, remember to bring an opener, they arent twist.

Huh? Why dream on? Prusik is an excellent GF climb and meets all the stated requirements...? I agree with everything else thats posted, too, they are all good suggestions. Well, except yours !

Prusik West Ridge

Fence Sitter on the fence. How apt. I will be there, if only a little while. Gotta go home and hang some windows.

Is Little Tahoma really its own volcanic cone? I thought it was just a remnant of ol' Rain-dog.

If there is enough snow, downclimbing might be an option, as mentioned. However, the snow is sun-exposed, so gets very sloppy soft as the day wears on... I went the route in early June one year with one rope, and the rap anchors for the route really were not set up well for single-rope descent back then. We rapped off jammed knots etc. I would suggest you bring a light 45m 7mm rap cord and just do the double rope raps from the semi-decent anchors.

No, for the most part Adams Gl. is very straightforward. Single tool, no pro other than glacier travel stuff needed (YMMV). I have some pics here if you want to see what it looks like in typical early summer. http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/adams.htm

my first pee bottle was 16 oz. After an unfortunate tent-bound accident involving said bottle filled to overflowing and slopping over into my sleeping bag (borrowed, whew!), I went to 32 oz.

East Ridge of Edith Cavell North Face of Edith Cavell (I recommend you do E Ridge first, just to get used to how big that mountain is!!) N Face of Fay is interesting, really cool to hang at Neil Cogan hut. Cant go wrong on Athabasca or Andromeda, any route. E Ridge of Temple Grassi Ridge Brewer Buttress/Ultra Brewers Sir Donald on the way there or on the way back.

Are you sure you mean S Twin Sister and not N Twin Sister? In the North Cascades? I've done S Twin Sister W side in February. Getting to it through the old clearcuts was the crux. The route was straightforward. I dont know why you'd want to do it in Summer, it would be a scramble at most. I've done W Ridge N Twin sister as well, which is much easier to get to and a much better climb.

Dan, you should join our weekly "Saggitarius Scares Us" self-help group. It won't help you regain your courage, but it will help you feel better that there are so many others out there like you. For therapy we go out to 38 and climb rediculously overrated clip-ups and pat each other on the back for being hardmen and women.

I want to know where you guys get the kinky gremlins