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Everything posted by Alex
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You guys are way too subtle for my addled brain! OK, thanks Don and Fern! Alex
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Relax. The skis do the work for you. Start cross slope in tele position. Now softly, take uphill ski and step into turn. (Its an offbalance movement.) During this you transition your body weight from - tele pos 40% uphill ski 60% downhill ski - step, shoulders square to fallline 50% 50% weight on each foot - skis flex and turn now you are again 60% downhill boot, 40% uphill boot, back into tele position crossing slope... After the first turn and once your momentum is going, use a subtle "jump turn" (its really just a hop, if the snow is light) to float the skis up and to the surface to ease through the turn easier. Find a rythm for the turns so that you control your speed by turning based on the incline of the slope. Trying to ski pow when the slope angle is too shallow to get you some good momentum is arduous and makes you fall and loose confidence. In fresh snow, pick a slope that is steeper than one you would choose if groomed or even tracked out. If the slope is already tracked out, choose the most untracked line to keep the snow consistent. You'll find you speed up noticably in tracked terrain, which isnt good for easy control. The toughest time I have is breakable crust, when the skis are very unpredictable through the step and turn as you are transitioning your weight. When I get into breakable crust or windslab, I try to go elsewhere
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Thats pretty good!!
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have anna fly you in, jump out of plane in slick suit with snowboard strapped to feet, take lots of movies for your kids, pop the chute, glide in for a perfect James Bond landing in soft freshies....release chute as you surf they great white wave down to town..?
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Alot of really good trip ideas you have there, Lowell... Alex
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When I was in the area in 1998, I had a pair of Koflch Arctis boots while most of my friends had the custom foam intuition liners. Without a doubt, the Intuition liners are warmer. The Koflachs are fine down to around -30C with some extra sole insulation if you need it, but I would go intuition liners. very good advice, that Alex
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Arent they just the updated teched out version of the Freney? I believe the old Freney was discontinued and replaced by this boot. If so they are the Scarpa alpine mixed climbing boot that competes with several boots of the Sportiva line. I (and several others here) have the older (blue) Freneys and really like them for almost everything cascades and ice/mixed in the Cascades and Rockies. They climb easy rock really well (actually) and can take a good amount of abuse. I used them for everything from Ptarmigan Trav, Triple Cs, to ice climbing on days warmer than -10C. The Scarpa last is wider and more comfortable if you find your foot is too wide for Sportivas.
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Lillooet pre-TR, missing gear, and rumors
Alex replied to CascadeClimber's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
I've only done that route once, but I recall it being about 75(+?) m from base to the closest tree. My partner simulclimbed about half the pitch. There is a belay about 50m up on the left hand side in the rock, off pins I think -
you there with send bot? Hope you guys dont freeze too bad, hey at least its not melting
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Don, can I link to this site from www.wastateice.net on the links page? Alex
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My wife and I headed over to Austria to hang with the folks and also do some ice climbing. On the 26th Dec we rented a car and headed out on our little adventure, using ice climbing topos and info gleaned from http://www.bergsteigen.at (well done). The first day we went to the Blue Box in the OetscherGraeben. It was a really neat place, but nothing significant had formed. In what would reflect every climb we did this trip, the ice was too thin to protect, usually less than 10cm thick. As such, only lower-angle stuff had formed well enough, so we ended up doing a 30m WI3, and some ice bouldering. It is easy to imagine that with a little more cold (it is still early season after Christmas in Austria), Deep Blue would be an awesome route. That evening we spent some time in Maria Zell, then found a cheap place to sleep in Katschberg. The second day we went down into Steiermark and climbed a route named Atlantis, at easy WI4. The Austrians have a funny idea of what WI 3 and WI 4 are, the pitches we did were no harder than 2, and even the top "WI4" pitch was probably 3. The "WI4+" variation we TRed at easy 4. Still, a fun day with temps around -12C (the coldest temps of the trip). Day 3 we left Bad Aussee and went over to Hallstatt to look at the SchleierFall, perhaps one of the largest routes in Austria. It is very big (5 full length pitches?!?!) but the middle crux section was not in...we headed up the valley and ended up climbing through this really rad ice cave, up through a small hole in the limestone ice cave for about half a pitch. Then we headed over and TR'ed a very difficult and wet 45m 5/5+. It was brutal and scary, super exposed over a raging high waterfall!! The 6/6+ across the valley looked absolutely sick! You had to rap in and climb out, or else we would have tried it too...we were not convinced we could actually get out on that one..! Of course Hallstatt is one of the most beautiful towns in Austria, with the Dachstein in the background, so certainly not a wasted day! Still warm though. The next day was also warm, with drizzle. We left Bad Aussee and headed over to the Woerschacher Waterfall, which we had seen from the road the day before and it had looked awesome. It looked alot longer from the road than it turned out to be. Again, thin thin thin ice was the rule, with the only servicable screw on a 50M WI3 pitch found just below the crux in a large mushroom of ice. Easy but heady climbing. The second pitch was falling apart even while we approached, and while it was only WI3, I backed off as I didnt think it would support body weight. The next day we drove down to the Maltatal in Carinthia, which was a nice scenic drive. The Maltatal holds one of the two high concentration ice climbing areas in Austria (the other being the Rudolfshuette), with perhaps 30 routes in the valley. Again warm temps (+2 even at night) dashed our hopes, and we ended up driving up the whole valley and seeing one route in. Ironically, as we were contemplating the one route in the upper valley, a snowplow and snowblower came by and told us to immediately turn the car around, the av danger was too high and they were closing the road. Discouraged by the medioche climbing and warm temps, with nothing forcast that would give us any hope of finding better conditions in all of Europe (Switerland, Germany, Italy et al were all experiencing mild temps, from -2 to +10C - the Foehn was in full effect) we decided that rather than blow money on a few pitches of (while fun, not particularly stellar) WI3, we would save our cash and head back to Vienna. Back we went, and spent a last few leisure days before returning stateside. Notes: * Its very annoying that no one ice guide exists for Austria. At best, you can find "Select" guides to each province if you are very lucky and visit many of the small climbing shops in Vienna, but our information we got from the Internet was most of the time equal or better than that in the guide books. We found that several days navigating http://www.bergsteigen.at was the most useful way of getting route info, besides talking to the local ice climbers (of which there are very few!) * Ratings in Austria are soft. Keep this in mind when selecting objectives. I selected alot of WI4 routes (mostly 3, with a pitch or two of 4), as I would for the Rockies, but these turned out to be mostly cruising/soloing terrain (even the "WI4" pitches with the thin ice conditions) and not particularly challenging. In retrospect I should have searched for options around half to a full grade harder for my wife and myself. For those used to Canadian Rockies ratings, the ratings in Austria are typically at least half a grade easier. The only exception are perhaps the most recent "grand cours" routes, such as "Maenner Ohne Nerven" and "Mordor". * There is alot of climbing, but the season is short - reliable ice outside of the "alpine" routes only from mid Jan to mid Feb. * If you are going for a longer trip, take AT skis. Limiting yourself to the lowland routes is ok for a week, but would be limiting for 2 or 3. * Cheap places can be had pretty easily, once you get into the swing of things. Do not rely on youth hostels, they are chock full during ski season. Instead, you will have to get by on "B&Bs". In Austria many people speak passable English, so even if you do not speak German its possible to get by. * There are really no handy climbing shops like North Americans are used to, outside of Vienna and perhaps true mountain climbing towns like Cham. Bring spare parts with you (picks, files, a spare set of crampons, etc) and do not expect to be able to maintain eq in a timely manner unless in one of these towns. I see its been cold around here! Can't wait to climb locally again!
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Thanks guys! Jason and I tried to get you as much info as soon as possible. We couldve spent another season or two futzing around for more routes, but we figured the sooner we got people psyched and out, the sooner the corrections would come in Remember, you can submit corrections (rants, raves welcome too) to http://www.wastateice.net/newcorrection.aspx and see the published ones at http://www.wastateice.net/corrections.aspx Thanks! Alex
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just got back from climbing in Europe where the conditions have been miserable. Literally flew over Canmore on the way home. Its trips like that that make one appreciate how accessible and what an amazing ice climbing mecca Banff is!
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Portland to Mazama better part of 7 hours (go to Banff)
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this is an old thread and jeff's site has been 404 for a long time
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oh! I didnt understand the significance of that I bet there is an ommitted scene in the extended DVD that shows Worm throwing the palantir and Gandalf breaking Sarumans staff anyway No, not evil but quite mad nonetheless. I thought Denethor was pretty well represented actually
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you might want to stock up, I've found pink and red get "fixed" fairly often... Alex
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His and Hers are 4s.
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Always was, just ask Scott_Harpell. Damn right! wow paul. how creative. changing the names, to make it look like someone ripping on you was actaully ripping on someone else. sure aren't wasting your edumacation. Guess what Scott? I was thinking of Fence Sitter when I wrote that post. I just got the names a little mixed up. They all blur together sometimes... Don't worry Scotty, I'm putting my edumacation to good use! ya, umm that s obvious At what point does a massively recursive quoted thread collapse under its own weight? "12 buried and presumed lost in spray collapse. 'Well, that's 12 less of those fuckers to ban,' say moderators." I don't know, lets find out... Posers! All of ya! Dear god thats alot of quoted people!
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damn! thats a good idea, ok I'll tell her. thanks again!
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fuck you numbnuts - tell it like it is I don't kiss anyone's ass my nuts are pretty numb, actually
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trask, that was perhaps the best blowjob I've gotten in a long time! Damn!