Alex

Caveman, since you decided to publically beat your chest over this, I'd like to point out that I sent you private email, PMs, called you on the fucking phone, and had you unbanned in under 3 minutes. So get the fuck over it already. Alex

It's destined to become another bestseller... Now you can own your own copy of Who's Looking Out for You. From the mega-bestselling author of The O'Reilly Factor and The No Spin Zone, a no-holds-barred exposé of the people and institutions who are letting Americans down - and what we should do about it. Bill O’Reilly is mad as hell - and he’s not going to let you take it anymore. In his most powerful and personal book yet, this media powerhouse and unstoppable truth-teller takes on those individuals and institutions in American life who are failing in their duties big-time. In his inimitable style, mixing wit, pugnacity, and plain common sense, O’Reilly kicks butt and takes (and also names) names from crooked corporate weasels to venal politicians to lazy and/or politically correct bureaucrats to sexually predatory priests and the Church hierarchy that protects them to a media establishment rife with political bias and economically hooked on violence and smut. At the same time that he calls the famous and powerful to account, he dares to get personal, questioning just how much our closest friends, families, and lovers do look out for us, and delivering a powerful message about personal responsibility and self-reliance in an uncertain world. He forces us to ask just how much genuine altruism is left in a society that thrives on self-indulgence and ruthless competition. Who’s Looking Out for You? is a book that boldly confronts our worst fears and biggest problems in a post-9/11, post-corporate-meltdown world. Its sage, candid advice on regaining control and trust in these troubled times will resonate with the millions of readers and viewers who have come to believe in Bill O’Reilly as the man who speaks for them.

whaaaat?? no more humpin' bunnies????

and then there are Scots, who we all know aren't wankers but are colonized by them!

I thought it was two lumps that made y'all so sweet

Sheeeet, where's 'ol Beck when you need him??

Thanks, yeah I know I resole my Mythos enough just never had slippers before. Alright I'll resole them, cheaper than buying new. Thanks all, Alex

what ice is formed will probably survive a few days. Just hope it gets colder again. Move S, Jet, move S!!

Justin, ah! No, Bryant Buttress Right is up the hill, the right side of what Roger et al calls the "Hotline Wall". Bryant Buttress Left is the left side of "Hotline Wall". "Not Quite A Plum" is on the map for Alpental as "WI3+" down to the right of the Rap wall, and as a blurb in one of the other routes I think. I will make a note of it and consolidate the names somewhat to avoid future confusion, and will put a note in on the corrections list on wastateice.net

It's getting about the time when I have to start thinking about a resole or just new pair of slippers. Do people resole these things (Moccasym, specifically), or is it not worth it?

I have a pair of Patagonia Stretch Triolet goves with leather palm. They are not as warm as this years ice glove, but seem to be up to the task most days. On my recent trip to Banff I thought "ok, here we go, they are leaking and I'll just bring them back now" but it turned out that they were *not* leaking, and held up very well on a very wet day on weeping wall. Might be worth checking out.

WFR at a minimum or WEMT preferrably

you can actually continue the route around the corner past the tree and up a sketch ice pitch with some rock pro good outing

Alasdair, I've climbed Crosson and its not unsafe. Only the last 500 feet or so are anything more than a ridge walk. You have to be really fast though to make it worth your while, however. Alex

Thats the WI3/3+ pitch that forms pretty reliably every year. Big tree at the top right? 60 m rope? Alex

When do we get a sample of the bud, ehmmic?

that one guy is going to try to catch it!!

There is one cure for all tax ills. Married, filing jointly.

Revelstoke is like a 3 hour drive.

more power to you scott, hope things work out! Alex

gives you a pretty good idea of what the Tool Shed routes are like right now, though. Thanks for the pic!

Lambone is pulling your leg. I would take it slow. Check out the North Face or NE Buttress of Chair Peak. Its typically done in half a day car to car by a fast party. Then set your sights on some of the Cascade winter alpine trade routes, such as N Buttress Coulouir on Colchuck, Triple Couloirs on Dragontail. After that, you'll have enough winter miles to understand the challenges unique to the region. Alex

I moved this to the Gear Critic forum...

sorry you guys didnt get any ice, but it has been pretty warm these last few weeks I was a little surprised to find that OMC isnt carrying the guidebook. oh well. Alex