Alex

hehe. I am currently in the other window, making these routes visible Gimme a few minuites, sheesh!

Check out http://www.wastateice.net/ Alex

Only bolted routes. Crack routes/traditional routes are up for grabs by anyone and anytime because there is little/no investment in time (cleaning/drilling) or equipment (hangers, studs, chains).

Oh go crawl back to your sunny trad climb, pope!

Alright. I'll give you the benefit of a doubt and actually believe you are just visiting from out of town. My guess is you are just Dru, but whatever. The Mountaineers book of "rules" is one organization's world view. It doesnt cover everything, nor does it represent the climbing community. It's common courtesy to let the person who set the route try to redpoint it before publishing information about the route, its suggested rating, or its location. This is true for new route development everywhere in the United States and Canada.

I see you are so smarty pants. Just because you make fun of poor hapless Mounties doesnt mean shit moron. What is your point anyway? My point is that you are just uneducated. No one really cares that much about whether you think the shit is free game or not if you poach routes, just like no one cared what Ken Nichols point was after he started chopping the shit out of the East Coast. This thread really has no point at this point, so after this point the thread will pointlessly be pointed in the Spray direction.

BOLTS

knock yourself out. the last guy that got on the route got a heel spur through an arm. howzzat for anarchy?

There was a pic posted in the ice climbing gallery (by wazzumountaineer?) of Gib Wall a few weeks back.

fluffy pow on rock good skiing back there Sat!

On this route in particular, its because there are currently no lead bolts in place, only an anchor, and approaching the routes from above or from another anchor is tedious and dangerous. There is another route in the area (to the right, on Bryant Buttress where Hotline forms) that also has a rope and draws in place. This is a redpoint project. Here are some pictures from Saturday Rap Wall The route and rope Stephen Ramsey was asking about. TimL on the exit moves of the center route.

Its a new anchor for a fourth route on that wall. I believe the rope is actually Roger S's. We knocked and scraped the ice off it and TRed the route, it was fun, around M7-.

went out and played in alpental valley. was hoping for a clear day, it turned out to be ok in the am, then clouded over and got colder by the early afternoon. nothing in the lower valley is in, though things are trying to form. two dudes we met under Alpental Falls (Alpental 1) said that it had been in much better shape 2 weeks ago. we proceeded to the source lake bowl, and traversed past a forming source lake line (looking like it might get fat this year) to the start of "Thin Slice" (a route not in guide, but will be online at wastateice.net shortly). After floundering around in the deep snow trying to approach the upper pitches, we bailed and joined some others we knew at the Rap Wall. Good time was had by all.

thanks for the update! I almost went over with the snomo today, and the rain here in town deterred me...now I am glad I didnt go as far as the travel through those boudlerfields, yeah its better when there is no snow at all or enough heavy/consolidated snow to make it smooth sailing with snowshoes on, though if the ice is in, it usually makes it "better"

I wonder what "good news at work" would be to a sex industry worker ...?

From West to East Golden to Field - An hour Field to Lake Louise about 30 minutes Lake Louise to Banff about 45 min + Lake Louise to Bow Summit about a little less than an hour Lake Louise to Saskatechewan River Crossing about an hour and a half? Banff to Canmore about 30 minutes Canmore to Calgary about an hour Alex

Takes a really long while to get to any where, there is no "big water" nearby not even something like Horsetooth Res, its really flat even with the Rockies fairly close by. Its still a long long haul to Pinedale and Jackson. I just think it would get pretty old quickly, but thats just me.

I lived in Ft Collins, CO (pretty close to Laramie). I would probably not opt for that again, having lived here. But there are worse places to be.

JoJos is the standard. I think there is a separate guide specifically for mixed climbing.

Buy the guidebook!!!! It has everything you need!

A .22 rifle with a scope could easily take out some tires from a safe and secure location, eh? Then no one is going anywhere

I've never understood why "heros", who are almost always elevated to such status by accomplishments, and not character, are still respected after they have shown that their character is lacking. This is not a slam on Alex Lowe in particular, but on all those people out there who are ego-driven condescending assholes when in the company of others they find somehow inferior. Its not always expressed, because everyone has some notion of social skills, but it seems even so that we see this attitude everywhere: professional sports athletes, the dude cranking 13s at Smith who puts down the "gumby" 5.10 slab mongerers, the guy bouldering in Redmond gym who ignores you because you cant send V6. When you register the attitude and point it out to someone else, you *always* seem to get "yeah but man they climb soooo hard!! Didnt you hear, the guy just got off EL CAP!!" <drooool> My heros are the people who have somehow remained humble in spite of the accomplishments that put them at the forefront of their chosen professions or hobbies. My heros are the dudes who climb way harder than me, but still find pleasure in going climbing with me, not out of pity but because I'm a fun person to climb with, and without putting me down for my (lack of) ability. My heros are the guys who, once they had families to support, scaled back their ambition and stayed alive, rather than live their selfish passion-driven dreams.

any idea what shape sorcerer or murchison is in? how much snow fell?

cool! I would save your "approach mojo" for Strobach for a few weeks and try again the first week of Dec. I've been up there around that time several separate years (Sad Cebu, Suddun Change, First on Left, DropLine, others come in earlier than the majority) and though I have never actually climbed mud, its going to remain "thin" until its been cold and there has been some snow .. January? What makes this year different from last year is that there has actually been precip to feed the climbs. Last year it was bitter cold, but no snow until January...bad for Strobach. Anyway, awesome that you are getting out there, its a real cool area!! Alex