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DPS

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Everything posted by DPS

  1. DPS
    Awesome, thanks!
  2. DPS
    Very cool!
  3. DPS
    Does anybody have current conditions for the Cascade River Road? I know it is gated at MP 19, but is it drivable that far? Thanks.
  4. DPS
    Conditions were as good as it gets on Sunday. After many, many times eying the East Face for the last 25+ winters it was finally iced enough to climb. Protect? Probably not. 80 meters of steepish ice ran into a steep snowfield which I traversed to gain the NE Buttress. The ice step was fat and about 10' high. The gendarme at the top of the NE Buttress was nicely iced and looked like a much more interesting variation. I wonder if it would be possible to climb to the top of this feature and rappel onto the NF to climb the last ice pitch below the summit pyramid.
  5. DPS
    There is normally a three piton anchor 30 meters down, but that was buried. I've never seen that much snow on Chair before. You often have to scramble to reach the first anchors (at the col) but that was almost buried itself.
  6. DPS
    Don't take children across the border without their mother in the car with you. It will not go well.
  7. DPS
    Yikes! I just read the blog post and saw the photo. I hope that doesn't leave a mark! Reminds me of some idiot that managed to fall off the Girth Pillar.
  8. DPS
    Super job! Doesn't matter if you summitted, only that you accurately report what you did and have fun with it all!
  9. DPS
    Does anybody have more information on the body that was discovered at Illumination Saddle. http://www.msn.com/en-us/news/us/person-found-dead-at-9400-feet-on-mount-hood-in-oregon-crews-attempt-to-recover-body/ar-BB10o1A3?ocid=iehp
  10. DPS

    Road Closures

    DPS replied to Bronco's topic in North Cascades

    Boulder Glacier and Park Glacier Headwall routes would be other, high quality, interesting route alternatives to the North Ridge or Coleman Headwall.
  11. DPS
    Who would you rather be rescued by? A cop or one of our own?
  12. DPS
    Has anyone taken a serious look at the SE Buttress of the Tooth? I've looked at it long and hard for a route over the years and have not seen any obvious crack or dihedral systems. The roofs on the East Face would tend to push one towards the South Face, but perhaps there is a line to be had on the crest of the SE Buttress if it were protected with bolts/thin pitons?
  13. DPS
    Thanks Bronco, good reading. I'm curious though, does climbing Mt. Rainier 3 X week as climbing rangers and guides do carry the same risks and warnings (other than the potential for infections) as using a hypobaric gadget?
  14. DPS
    Here is a better one. https://www.summitpost.org/so-you-want-to-climb-mt-rainier/507227 FWIW, if you are carrying 40 -60 pounds, you are doing it wrong.
  15. DPS
    I used him to do some modifications to a pack and to build a holster for my alpine rock hammer. I was very pleased with the work and the price was very reasonable plus he picked up and delivered to my doorstep.
  16. DPS
    http://www.msn.com/en-us/news/weather/ice-climber-killed-by-small-avalanche-in-colorado-idd/ar-BBZ651v?ocid=iehp
  17. DPS
    Does anybody have a guess as to what this very warm, very wet extended weather pattern is doing to climbing conditions at various elevations? Consolidating snowpack? Creating alpine ice? Just making really sloppy conditions?
  18. DPS
    That is priceless.
  19. DPS
    There is no doubt there are natural cool and warm cycles, however, as I recall, these global shifts occur on something like 30,000 year cycles. The last ice age ended only 10,000 years ago and the earth has been warming since then. So, based on previous warming/cooling trends, we have another 20,000 years of warming ahead of us before the next cool cycles starts. Of course, I could be remembering those time frames completely wrong.
  20. DPS
    No kidding, plus the wedder here is wetter than there.
  21. DPS
    I am.
  22. DPS
    I am impressed by the sheer ambition of the project and the clean execution. Well done, way to squeeze out a giant enchainment from an already big mountain. Many years ago Sean Courage and I were discussing Colin Haley and Bart Paul. We agreed that if they both made it to 30 then they would probably live into old age. The gist of the story is I've seen too many talented, young climbers die by the age of 35 and some much younger. Boldness and ambition must be tempered by good judgement. Please, for your mother's sake, be careful out there.
  23. DPS

    Sewer wanted

    DPS replied to DPS's topic in The Gear Critic

    I just got my pack back and I am very happy with the work High Mountain Gear and Repair did. He added a Cordura crampon patch with two 1/2" webbing straps. The work is very cleanly done and professional looking. Also, he added a plastic frame sheet to the pack to add a bit of structure to carry heavier loads. He also built a custom hammer holster with colors to match my little alpine hammer.
  24. DPS
    Jim Nelson at Pro Mountain Sports in the U district has special ordered a number of big ticket hard to get items for me. That would be my first stop.
  25. DPS
    I suspect the skiing is better than the climbing right now. The attempts/exploratory hikes I made before this huge storm system moved through revealed very little ice, so this new snow will need to consolidate, bond, melt, freeze which will take some time and clear days and nights
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