DPS

Weather permitting, I am planning to head up to Cascade Pass this weekend (8/8 - 8/9). I'll be leaving from Issaquah on Saturday morning. If anyone needs a shuttle for the PT or a ride, let me know. Dan Smith daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com

In case you don't get recent beta, Nastia and I did a similar trip on August 10 a few years ago and the Sherpa was not a descent option, not even close.

I was thinking of your trip when I read this, John.

Classic J'Berg TR, you are in good company. Well done.

I saw one on Craigslist recently. https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/spo/d/bellevue-ice-hammer-and-screws-forrest/7164906876.html

Thanks, I wasn't sure. I think there is a Chimney Rock in Idaho, and Montana, and Oregon, and Wyoming, and...

Is this the peak Peter Potterfield had an accident on?

I enjoy car-to-car trips as well, with a nice, long bivy somewhere along the way.

Maybe try Larry Goldie and the folks at North Cascades Mountain Guides?

There is a pie shaped area on the Easton Glacier side that is not a wilderness area, so maybe dogs are allowed there?

John's a great guy! I believe he was with @JasonG .

How much for the Tiblocs?

@JasonG The climbing was hard but at least the pro was crappy.

Sent my letter. I worked with Leland Windham and AlexK when Leland was developing Bob's Wall. We would go after work and Alex and I would climb the newly bolted routes while Leland cleaned new ones. The climbing there has a different quality, better rock, than the rest of Exit 38. It would be a shame to lose it.

I believe Pete Doorish, Dale Farnham, and Bryan Burdo are responsible for every grade VI route in Washington. I could be wrong.

There's this place in California with lots of big walls. Kind of obscure though so I'm keeping it a secret but if you send me an IM I'll let you in on it.

One question, how did you know it was crystal meth and how much it was worth? Are you like a Walter White type of dude?

Would that be Leland Winham's route on the South Face? If it is I can probably get the info from Leland. I recall he said it was 5.11 A0 or 5.13 and he called it "Nothing".

If I climb PR I will definitely post here.

Sounds good Oleg, maybe next year! Let's do it!

I love that channel, it changed the way I rig anchors.

Thanks for the beta. I would only have to aid the first 6 pitches, the rest I could free.

I've attempted PR a four times, but various factors skunked each attempt. Maybe next years.

Easton Glacier is as straight forward as it gets. I don't remember any tricky spots or route finding problems, however, there are some large crevasses. We did it the first week in May on skis and even in early season there were some large crevasses open, which were a bit creepy to ski around. Three days would be very casual, we did it C2C in an easy day.