DPS

Krikes, you are discussing bringing MULTIPLE items of the same thing: two pairs of foot wear, two types of crampons. The only thing I bring a second pair of is socks. The one BIG recommendation I would make, is look into outfits other than RMI. They would be my last choice.

I don't mind sleeping in the shelter, I have always slept well and if you don't have to carry the weight of the tent all the better. Transceiver is not needed in July/August. Don't need a BIG puffy either, a hooded 100 gram Primaloft or similar is the ticket.

Hey Gene, I am definitely of the mindset that if it works for me, why change. I started using the spider rappel as I described when rappelling with a less experienced partner. My partner could be set up to rappel and clipped to the anchor, I could rappel and give a fireman's belay and all my partner had to do was unclip and go. The extended rappel allowed movement in the ropes without jerking my partner around. I decided to try the method myself and really like it. FWIW, I only switched to leash-less climbing tools after seeing a photo of you and Jason climbing with leash-less tools. I thought If Gene was going leash-less, I really must be the last person on the planet to climb with leashes and bought a pair of new tools.

FWIW, Jason Martin maintains a nice blog on American Alpine Institute's web site with a lot of the latest best practices.

Completely agree, this practice has saved my life at least once.

For cragging/trad rock I buy whatever ~10 mm x 60 meter is on sale. Any diameter around 10mm is light enough for cragging and durable enough. I lucked out on my last purchase, a Beal 9.8mm x 60m. Nice supple rope, nice rope bag with tarp, marked in the middle. I think I paid around $100 or less for it.

I really dig the new 'spider rappel' set up. Girth hitch a double length 9/16" sling through your harness (leg loops and waist strap NOT the belay loop). Tie an overhand knot in the middle. A small locking biner goes at the end to clip into the belay while you are setting up the rappel. Your rappel biner and device is clipped through the short loop formed by the knot. Set up the ropes through the rappel device. Clip a biner to the belay loop and clip the autoblock/prusik to this biner. There are some good videos online demonstrating this technique, but I like it because it is the chicken sling, rappel device, and auto block all together and it is stronger as the autoblock is clipped to the belay loop. BTW, I agree wit the new speed buckles. Don't likle them. I tie a knot in the tail, just to make sure and noticed other climbers do this as well.

Any ~ 20 degree bag from FF or WM would be a solid choice and would be very versatile. I own bags from both companies and have used them well below their temperature ratings. For a summer specific bag I took a chance and purchased a 30 degree Stoic bag. (50% off from SteepandCheap). I have been very happy with it and find it to be as good quality wise as FF or WM, although the temperature rating is not as conservative. 850 fill power down, Pertex Quantum W/B shell, 25 ounces, compacts to about a liter.

I think you are on the right track. I have two rope systems, one for rock climbing/cragging and one for alpine climbing/ice climbing. Rock/cragging: 9.8mm x 60m. I use this (for sport climbing, trad climbing, even alpine cragging (e.g. Wasington Pass). Not dry treated, whatever is on sale. Double 8.5mm x 50m Everdry, Sharp double ropes. On easy-moderate climbs, I feel good and wholesome using one strand, for more difficult routes, or waterfall climbs or teams of three I use both. I know the 50 meter length is unfashionable, as is the larger diameter. Double ropes require a lot of rope management, shorter ropes make it easier and the nature of the climbs in the Cascades lend themselves to shorter ropes. Following on a single strand of half rope makes me feel better with a burlier Sharp rated (Edleweiss) rope.

Didn't happen, stupid immunodeficiency flared up. Grrrrrrrr.

I sent you a text.

Regarding seano's remark regarding glaciers, he and I have very different opinions on glaciers here. I have an enormous amount of respect of glaciers, and have experienced myself or partners experience crevasse falls on seemingly innocuous pocket glaciers. I have 30 years experience on Cascade glaciers, and there are few 'glaciers' that I would solo. That said, I think parts of the Stuart Range could be up your alley - Stuart, Sherpa, Colchuck, Dragontail, and Little Annapurna all have class 3 scrambles and with some imagination you could link them up.

My main recommendation is to really think about how many calories you will need. The camps on the West Buttrash are so close together that the days are very short, even the ones where we made a carry to a high camp and returned were never longer than 5 1/2 hours. We budgeted 5,000 calories per day based on suggestions from a book, which ended up being way too much. We could have easily gone with 3,500 per day. Realize that you will spend more time not climbing than climbing, so a few days your caloric intake will be higher, while most days lower, but I think for me personally, 3,500 per day would have been plenty. With all the down time, cooking became an activity. I made a pretty good risotto from instant rice, chicken soup, freeze dried veggies, cheese, and salami. I would also experiment with the backpacking ovens to make pizza and cinnamon rolls. Bring a fry pan to make pancakes.

My Icebreakers boxer briefs came out of the drier full of holes after wearing only once. I know they should not be dried in the dryer, it was an accident. My Icebreakers GT 250 shirt sustained a hole when a pine needle from a tree grabbed it. After wearing it for a couple hours under a pack, the shoulders developed big holes. I think merino in general is very fragile, that is why you see manufacturers blending it with bamboo (cool) and polyester (defeats the purpose). Maybe a 50% merino, 25% bamboo, 25% silk blend, properly spun, would have better durability and wicking properties? My Smartwool socks wear out in the heals very quickly, but I will only wear merino liners under VBLs. On Denali, I had a pair of Smartwool liners and a pair of synthetic liners. After a few days the synthetic liners smelled like death, the merino smelled fine.

Last time it snowed enough to ski it, my wife said it was a stupid idea and someone posted photos of their once in a decade ski on Tiger. I'm not missing out this time. The only thing that worries me is the exposed bit coming off the summit. I saw a dog tumble down that slope once.

I'm skiing from my house up and down West Tiger 3 this weekend, if it snows like forecasted.

I went up to Chair Peak last two Saturdays. I noticed a hard, 1/4" thick layer of ice under the snowpack. Last Saturday it was covered by 12" of unconsolidated snow. The steep slopes in Chair basin had slid below the SW Chimney all the way to the hard layer. I personally find the persistent sliding layer unusual for the Cascades, and I don't think the warm, wet weather this week will do much to consolidate the snowpack to the sliding layer or below it. I am concerned that the sliding layer will persist throughout the winter causing high avalanche danger until some kind of event or change in conditions bonds the ice layer to the layers below and above it. Please be mindful as you head out into the backcountry this weekend that avalanche conditions appear to me to be uncharacteristic of the Cascades. Be safe out there.

Looking for a partner for a fairly committing mixed winter alpine climb Dec 23-25. Long range weather forecast is favorable, indicating wet weather followed by a strong cold snap just before the climb dates. I have some objectives in mind, but no reliable partners. If interested, please email Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com or text (206) 276-8991. Thanks, Dan Smith

Thanks Rad. I was up above Source Lake last Saturday with snow shoes. Good to know there is a boot track now.

Looking for a last minute partner for Chair Peak tomorrow, 12/8/2018. This will be my 21st ascent of the peak, I try to do it every year as a season opener. I can provide the rope/rack/4WD car. I would like to leave Issaquah at 5:00 AM or meet up at North Bend around that time. All experience levels welcome. If you are experienced, we can try for the second winter ascent of the West Ridge, or if you are new, we can run up the NEB, which can be climbed in many conditions. If the East Face by some miracle looks like it is in shape, I would consider that as well. I'll be on snow shoes, I have pair to lend. If interested, please text me at (206) 276-8991. Daniel Smith

I think as you get into climbing you will inevitably end up with multiple pairs of ice tools. As an 'older' climber, it took me a few fits and starts to go leash less. I've tried BD Cobras (best swinging tools ever), but the picks are inferior to Petzl and Grivel's forged ones. Tried the Viper (older style, everything there is to hate on the Cobras, none of the great swing), the new ones look pretty nice though. Tried the Quarks, too light for my tastes and were tough to hang onto when going leash less. I decided to go full on leash less for harder routes (Grivel Tech Machine, basically identical to the Petzl Nomic's geometry), and use my Aztars for alpine routes, still the best alpine tool I've found. For moderate alpine routes, I found one full length axe and one North Wall hammer to be a great combo. My modern equivalent is a Petzl Summit Evo and a 50 cm Sum'Tec. Great for routes like Liberty Ridge on Rainier, or North Ridge or Coleman Headwall on Baker where there is some technical climbing but a lot of lower angled climbing as well. If you want an all around tool, look at the Grivel North Machine, although I hear the pommel is tough to hang onto in leash less mode, Petzl Quark, and BD Viper. I find the hammer and adze on the Cobras to be ridiculous for real alpine use, but if you don't mind dropping $700 for tools with a useless hammers and adzes and an inferior pick, they swing like butter.

Hi, I would like to get out on Sunday to take advantage of the good weather. The alpine rock routes received a fair amount of snow, and Leavenworth will be a zoo because of Octoberfest, so I was thinking either North Bend or Index. I am super out of shape, so I can lead only easy stuff, or follow slightly less easy stuff. I have a rope, a rack, and a car. I'm happy to climb with newbies or experienced partners, but I won't be able to follow anything harder than 5.9, if that. Please email Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com if interested. Thanks, Dan

Sorry for your loss, I hope you get it recovered or at least the loss is covered by insurance. This is not a 'I told you so' but, I've always maintained that TNF duffle bags scream 'Steal me!', while army-navy surplus OD green duffle bags fly under the radar. I also refuse to put any kind of sticker on my car indicating what kind of goodies might be inside.

I have yet to climb with anyone who trains with Crossfit who is more fit that I was when all I was doing was trail running , working construction and bouldering during the week with alpine climbing on the weekends.

Raise $1,000,000 and climb all 14 8,000 meter peaks. Go big or go home I guess. Best of luck.