DPS

So, I've climbed and skied Shuksan eight times by five routes, including multiple ascents and many descents of Fisher Chimneys. Your choice of footwear will be dictated by the time of year you go. For Fisher Chimneys I would recommend going late season (August-September) with a single pair of boots. Something like the Scarpa Charmoz or La Sportiva Trango would be the ticket. Light, stiff soled for the steep snow/ice portions and rock climb well enough for the summit pyramid. I've never used Salewa boots, but the Crow looks to be nearly identical to the Charmoz and Trango, so IF it fits, I think it would be a great choice. Don't do the two shoe strategy, that is just increasing your pack weight. Believe it or not, I once climbed it with a guy that used THREE pairs of shoes - rock shoes, approach shoes, and plastic boots. He had more strength than money to buy a single pair of appropriate footwear. Also, FC in 1.5 days is pretty typical. Camp on top of Winnie's Slide, just below the steep ice curtain leading to the upper Curtis. One of the best bivis in the Cascades - scenic, running water, right next to the route, plenty of flat, dry real estate. Definitely get your pack weight down. For an overnight trip on FC there is no reason why your pack should weigh more than 35 lbs at the heavy end. If you want a detailed gear list of what I would bring, I am happy to provide it.

So, Jason has pretty much hit the nail on the head. You really don't want to be on any route with rockfall potential after June, as a generalization. Emmons has the least amount of objective hazards relative to most of the other routes. The Kautz is steeper and in later season turns into a real ice climb, so if you are looking for that kind of action take that into consideration. As for best time to go, beginng of the season and September would not be either of my recommendations. Look at in terms of a chart with two lines. The chart starts in May, ends in September. As the season progresses, the weather becomes more stable (the line rises in terms of % chance of good weather). It takes a pretty big jump around July 5th and then more or less becomes asymptotic through the end of September. (Basically, weather is stable July 5 through Sept 31). The other line is the condition of the glacier. It starts out high in May and decreases throughout the season, bottoming out in October. The guides do a good job maintaining the routes, installing ladders and fixed ropes and what not, but there is only so much they can do, especially when the route becomes bare glacial ice. In a low snow year the D.C. becomes completely impassible and gets rerouted below the cleaver onto the Emmons as early as August. What you want is to time your trip at the nexus of these two lines - select the time frame when you have the best chance of good weather and good glacial conditions. This is typically July. June is not a bad time, but your chance of having good weather is not as high as in July. Also, have you really looked at all your options? Maybe a skills course through AAI (American Alpine Institute) on Baker would be a better experience? Really not much difference than Rainier except a bit lower in elevation, much more of a wilderness experience and better views.

Just a local's suggestion, July is typically very late for Hood, I would recommend against it. Also, the interesting (North Side) routes on Adams could very well be out of condition and the South Spur route will be pretty uninteresting after Rainier. Not to highjack your thread, but have you considered climbing the Emmons on Rainier (shorter drive from Sea-Tac and closer to the goods in the North)and then heading north to sample the North Cascades? Easton Glacier on Baker and Suphide Glacier on Shuksan would be a very convenient enchainment. Or, if you have had enough of big glaciers you could do the Ruth-Icy Traverse, one of the most scenic, moderate, and easily approached routes in the North Cascades. Just a local's opinion, take it or leave it.

That was my point. When I am climbing in the mountains, I take dry treated ropes, no question. For rock climbing in sunny weather at Index, Leavenworth, or Squamish, Smith Rock, etc., I don't find the dry treatment to be worth the extra cost when I can get a great 60 meter, 9.8mm rope for < $100.

How about a custom built custom built CCW Valdez or Cherynobyl? Cheaper and way more durable. Randy is very amenable to making packs to order, not just for size but fabric and features so you can get pretty much what you want.

I completely agree. Dry treated ropes are not necessary and only increase the expense for rock climbing. Who rock climbs in the rain? I NEVER buy dry treated ropes for cragging/rock climbing and am always able to find really nice, 60 meter cords for under $100. Alpine and ice climbing is a different story. I use doubles and spend the extra $ for dry treatment. Climbing with frozen ropes is no fun.

So, FWIW, here is my DC gear list, assuming I'm sleeping in the hut. This kit weighs ~25 lbs total with food and water for an overnight trip. Clothing Head Warm hat Fleece, should fit under helmet Helmet Black Diamond Tracer Hands Warm gloves Lowe Alpine Primaloft Liner gloves Cheap poly pro/light fleece Feet Boots Kayland Super Ice Evo (similar to LS Nepal Top or Scarpa Mont Blanc) Warm socks Goodhew warm (x 2 pair) Sleeping socks Smartwool -heavy Legs Briefs Poly Tights/long johns Patgonia mid weight Pants EMS Pinnacle migweight softshell Torso Warm shirt Patagonia light weight, long sleeve, zip tee light fleece jacket Marmot DriClime Shell Montbel Versalite (10 oz hard shell) Vest Marmot Alpha (highly breathable synthetic down) Belay Jacket Mountain Hardwear Super Compressor (or any other 100 gram Primaloft with hood) Personal climbing equipment Backpack Montbel Balance Light 40L Harness Black Diamond Couloir HMS Carabiner Small Black Daimond Small carabiners locking x 2, wire gate x 2 Slings 2 x 120cm spectra with small lockers Ice Axe Petzl Summit Evo Crampons Grivel Air Tech Prusik cords 5mm perlon Picket MSR Coyote Pulley REI Odds and ends Water bottles 1 Nalgene, 1 bladder - bottle doubles as mug TP Partial roll First aid kit Blister stuff, gauze pads, analgesics, athletic tape, asthma inhaler Camera with pouch Panasonic Lumix Essentials Kit Stuff sack Small, red silnylon stuff sack Sunglasses Cebe glacier glasses Knife 2.5" Buck with 1/2 serrated blade Sunblock Aloe Gator Gel Lip balm Bannana Boat SPF 15 Lotion Coconut oil Lighter Small Bic with guard removed Extra batteres for headlamp 4 x AAA lithium Headlamp Black Diamond Storm Water treatent tablets ClO2 Compass Brunton Spoon Titanium Shared climbing equipment Ropes 50m x 8.5 mm Edelweiss Sharp Everdry half rope Camping equipment Sleeping bag Stoic Somnus 30 degree Sleeping pad Evazotte Stove MSR Pocket Rocket with heat exchanger Pot 1 liter, black anadozied aluminum with handle Fuel 16 oz MSR Isopro Spoon Titanium Bowl Thin plastic Lighter Mini Bic Hygeine Kit Toothbrush Travel size Tooth paste Trial size Floss Trial size Hand santizer Trial size alcohol gel Foot powder Gold Bond trial size

Krikes, you are discussing bringing MULTIPLE items of the same thing: two pairs of foot wear, two types of crampons. The only thing I bring a second pair of is socks. The one BIG recommendation I would make, is look into outfits other than RMI. They would be my last choice.

I don't mind sleeping in the shelter, I have always slept well and if you don't have to carry the weight of the tent all the better. Transceiver is not needed in July/August. Don't need a BIG puffy either, a hooded 100 gram Primaloft or similar is the ticket.

Hey Gene, I am definitely of the mindset that if it works for me, why change. I started using the spider rappel as I described when rappelling with a less experienced partner. My partner could be set up to rappel and clipped to the anchor, I could rappel and give a fireman's belay and all my partner had to do was unclip and go. The extended rappel allowed movement in the ropes without jerking my partner around. I decided to try the method myself and really like it. FWIW, I only switched to leash-less climbing tools after seeing a photo of you and Jason climbing with leash-less tools. I thought If Gene was going leash-less, I really must be the last person on the planet to climb with leashes and bought a pair of new tools.

FWIW, Jason Martin maintains a nice blog on American Alpine Institute's web site with a lot of the latest best practices.

Completely agree, this practice has saved my life at least once.

For cragging/trad rock I buy whatever ~10 mm x 60 meter is on sale. Any diameter around 10mm is light enough for cragging and durable enough. I lucked out on my last purchase, a Beal 9.8mm x 60m. Nice supple rope, nice rope bag with tarp, marked in the middle. I think I paid around $100 or less for it.

I really dig the new 'spider rappel' set up. Girth hitch a double length 9/16" sling through your harness (leg loops and waist strap NOT the belay loop). Tie an overhand knot in the middle. A small locking biner goes at the end to clip into the belay while you are setting up the rappel. Your rappel biner and device is clipped through the short loop formed by the knot. Set up the ropes through the rappel device. Clip a biner to the belay loop and clip the autoblock/prusik to this biner. There are some good videos online demonstrating this technique, but I like it because it is the chicken sling, rappel device, and auto block all together and it is stronger as the autoblock is clipped to the belay loop. BTW, I agree wit the new speed buckles. Don't likle them. I tie a knot in the tail, just to make sure and noticed other climbers do this as well.

Any ~ 20 degree bag from FF or WM would be a solid choice and would be very versatile. I own bags from both companies and have used them well below their temperature ratings. For a summer specific bag I took a chance and purchased a 30 degree Stoic bag. (50% off from SteepandCheap). I have been very happy with it and find it to be as good quality wise as FF or WM, although the temperature rating is not as conservative. 850 fill power down, Pertex Quantum W/B shell, 25 ounces, compacts to about a liter.

I think you are on the right track. I have two rope systems, one for rock climbing/cragging and one for alpine climbing/ice climbing. Rock/cragging: 9.8mm x 60m. I use this (for sport climbing, trad climbing, even alpine cragging (e.g. Wasington Pass). Not dry treated, whatever is on sale. Double 8.5mm x 50m Everdry, Sharp double ropes. On easy-moderate climbs, I feel good and wholesome using one strand, for more difficult routes, or waterfall climbs or teams of three I use both. I know the 50 meter length is unfashionable, as is the larger diameter. Double ropes require a lot of rope management, shorter ropes make it easier and the nature of the climbs in the Cascades lend themselves to shorter ropes. Following on a single strand of half rope makes me feel better with a burlier Sharp rated (Edleweiss) rope.

Didn't happen, stupid immunodeficiency flared up. Grrrrrrrr.

I sent you a text.

Regarding seano's remark regarding glaciers, he and I have very different opinions on glaciers here. I have an enormous amount of respect of glaciers, and have experienced myself or partners experience crevasse falls on seemingly innocuous pocket glaciers. I have 30 years experience on Cascade glaciers, and there are few 'glaciers' that I would solo. That said, I think parts of the Stuart Range could be up your alley - Stuart, Sherpa, Colchuck, Dragontail, and Little Annapurna all have class 3 scrambles and with some imagination you could link them up.

My main recommendation is to really think about how many calories you will need. The camps on the West Buttrash are so close together that the days are very short, even the ones where we made a carry to a high camp and returned were never longer than 5 1/2 hours. We budgeted 5,000 calories per day based on suggestions from a book, which ended up being way too much. We could have easily gone with 3,500 per day. Realize that you will spend more time not climbing than climbing, so a few days your caloric intake will be higher, while most days lower, but I think for me personally, 3,500 per day would have been plenty. With all the down time, cooking became an activity. I made a pretty good risotto from instant rice, chicken soup, freeze dried veggies, cheese, and salami. I would also experiment with the backpacking ovens to make pizza and cinnamon rolls. Bring a fry pan to make pancakes.

My Icebreakers boxer briefs came out of the drier full of holes after wearing only once. I know they should not be dried in the dryer, it was an accident. My Icebreakers GT 250 shirt sustained a hole when a pine needle from a tree grabbed it. After wearing it for a couple hours under a pack, the shoulders developed big holes. I think merino in general is very fragile, that is why you see manufacturers blending it with bamboo (cool) and polyester (defeats the purpose). Maybe a 50% merino, 25% bamboo, 25% silk blend, properly spun, would have better durability and wicking properties? My Smartwool socks wear out in the heals very quickly, but I will only wear merino liners under VBLs. On Denali, I had a pair of Smartwool liners and a pair of synthetic liners. After a few days the synthetic liners smelled like death, the merino smelled fine.

Last time it snowed enough to ski it, my wife said it was a stupid idea and someone posted photos of their once in a decade ski on Tiger. I'm not missing out this time. The only thing that worries me is the exposed bit coming off the summit. I saw a dog tumble down that slope once.

I'm skiing from my house up and down West Tiger 3 this weekend, if it snows like forecasted.

Backcountry is selling the 0.5 - 3.0 set for almost the same price. https://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-camalot-c4-package-0.5-3?CMP_SKU=BLD0918&MER=0406&skid=BLD0918-OC-OS&mr:trackingCode=A29691DA-F061-DF11-9DA0-002219319097&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=plaonline&CMP_ID=PLA_GOc001&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PLA&k_clickid=_k_EAIaIQobChMIm4GDx76W4AIVwhx9Ch2rCwbJEAkYByABEgIPMPD_BwE_k_&rmatt=tsid:1042790|cid:292652677|agid:20469783517|tid:aud-374182320191:pla-384586361251|crid:92885922157|nw:g|rnd:3105726976229086532|dvc:c|adp:1o7|mt:|loc:9033305&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm4GDx76W4AIVwhx9Ch2rCwbJEAkYByABEgIPMPD_BwE

I went up to Chair Peak last two Saturdays. I noticed a hard, 1/4" thick layer of ice under the snowpack. Last Saturday it was covered by 12" of unconsolidated snow. The steep slopes in Chair basin had slid below the SW Chimney all the way to the hard layer. I personally find the persistent sliding layer unusual for the Cascades, and I don't think the warm, wet weather this week will do much to consolidate the snowpack to the sliding layer or below it. I am concerned that the sliding layer will persist throughout the winter causing high avalanche danger until some kind of event or change in conditions bonds the ice layer to the layers below and above it. Please be mindful as you head out into the backcountry this weekend that avalanche conditions appear to me to be uncharacteristic of the Cascades. Be safe out there.