DPS

quote: FC in a day car to car is a very long day for even in-shape climbers I suppose it all depends on what one considers 'reasonable' 'in-shape' and 'long day'.

My mother is a librarian and she gave me a video tape that the library was getting rid of. It was filmed by Steve Marts and featured a pair of young Skoog brothers doing a first ascent on Golden Horn. Kinda neat.

Mt Shuksan is typically a good late season choice. My advice: 1. Find the correct start to the chimneys. I think there is beta somewhere on this. Use the search function 2. Bivi on top of the chimneys, there is a beautiful site just below Winnie's Slide. 3. Descend the Fisher Chimneys. It is not difficult. Really.

..don't need a helmet, got a hard, hard head. Pearl Jam

I would sure as heck rather descend the FC in poor visability rather than the Sulphide. If you are at all concerned, bring wands for the glacier. Once you are in the chimneys, its kind of hard to get lost. Just follow the trail. A one day ascent is very reasonable for moderately in shape climbers.

quote: This automatically makes you a homo. You say that like its a bad thing. Are you homophobic or something?

The worst of that crew has got to be that little punk Colin. Oh sure he's courtious and helpful and nice but then behind your back he goes and climbs all kinds of hard shit making the rest of us look like losers!

Returning found gear is good karma, what did you think I meant?

Karma baby!

God dammit I look good in a beard!

quote: Tell anyone to fuck off while you were up there ? Yes, asnaffel hound. In fact I tried to crush it with a rock, but it was too fast. I left my food bag as a sacrificial offering, but it chewed on my new pack instead.

In response to Scott's question: I did NF Vesper a couple of years ago and followed a line center-right on the face. After the inital 3 picthes in gulleys and the heather bench, we climbed 4 pitches of 5.7 feeling rock. (I was in mt boots, my partner in wet light weight hikers). There were one to two placements per pitch until the last pitch in a low angle hand crack. Small HB Offsets and small Aliens would have been great to have. All the pro we wiggled in pretty much sucked. Belays were not too bad.

The trick to crossing the moat is finding the drawbridge. Beware of alligators.

Got caught in the lighnting/hail/rain storm Saturday late afternoon on the Torment-Forbidden Traverse. The lightning came within 1/4 mile or so before moving south over J-Berg. By the time we got moving again we had lost enough time that darkness caught us out on the SE Face where we bivied on poor, sloping, sandy ledges. I finally met the snaffle hound and it chewed up my new pack.

Was on the route on Sunday, August 18. The route is in fine shape, crevasse crossings easy. Many, many people on the route, including RMI folks. If I were to do this as other than a day trip, I would camp at Emmons Flats although it was still relatively crowded.

Belaying Alex on his multiple big whippers onto small Aliens convinced me they were the shit. That and they work very well for aid routes, especially the offset ones in pins scars.

Aidan, I meant to email you earlier. I spoke with a friend at work who teaches MOFA and he said dehydration was a likely factor and you should drink more water in the days prior to a big climb. That and the almost 6000 feet of elvation gain in 4 hours...

Colin climbed Inspiration Peak, NE Ridge on Mt Goode, N Buttress on Fury. And then on Sunday...

Mt Arafat. The summit register was very large, about 300 cubits by 200 cubits. Smelled like a zoo.

Ralph, Jim Yoder definitely has a 'wlid eyed look' about him. If you engage him in coversation, his sight is focused on a point on the wall behind you. He has said a lot of things like he personally built SPIRE rock, has put up 500 routes in the desert among other things. He is definitely a character. Dan

My daughter cruised you when she was 10. You're not so bad, just too many sportos that don't know how to crack climb.

Burlap

[ 08-16-2002, 07:46 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

What's your point, Dru?

On Sunday, August 11, I descended the West Ridge after clibming the North Ridge. The couloir is in fine shape, I down climbed the entire thing. There is an interesting secion to start, but is very passable. Pickets were not neccessary. Mountain boots work fine for the ridge itself, I would not schelp in rock shoes myself, but it would make it more fun and secure.