DPS

The North Face has been climbed, and in winter to boot. We were just on a new variation. It is the North Face of xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx I still think it is the coolest route I have ever been on. [ 11-05-2002, 01:19 PM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

Every now and again (like once a day) I do something I regret. The original post i made is one of those. I'm just glad folks like mikeadam and Caveman bring it back every so often so I can remember what an ass I can be. [ 11-05-2002, 01:13 PM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

Kind of reminds me of the Monty Python sketch that shows a man struggling up a rock face, gasping for breath and pounding pins into cracks. The camera pans back and shows John Clease crawling on a sidewalk.

The route was really, really good, it is among the best I have done. I think it was especially fun after those fellows told us 'its not in shape'. That became a running joke for us. 'As the NW Ice Couloir was not in shape, were were forced to retreat up the route and down the east ridge.' Michael, It took us 5 1/2 hours to reach camp at the base of the East Ridge. From camp we reached the route in a little under 2 hours. The route took about 7 1/2 hours, the decent 1/2 hour. Hiking out took another 6 1/2 hours as we got lost in the talus in the dark (I ended up taking a cartwheeling fall) and Paco's headlamp died. To add injury to insult, I slipped and landed on devil's club just a few minutes away from the car. I still have slivers in my hand. To do it car to car in a day would be quite an accomplishment on the order of Colin. I suppose it is all relative. Some people said the route was not in. I found it challenging. No doubt others would find it quite easy. [ 11-05-2002, 11:52 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

Thanks. You did not see the really bad ones.

I posted some photos of Paco and my trip up the NW Ice Couloir. They reside in the North Cascades folder. Fair warning, I am a poor photographer at best. Also, the thumb nail of 'steeping out' appears as a duplicate to the previous one. Click on it and you will get the correct larger version.

I posted some photos of Paco and my trip up the NW Ice Couloir. They reside in the North Cascades folder. Fair warning, I am a poor photographer at best. Also, the thumb nail of 'steeping out' appears as a duplicate to the previous one. Click on it and you will get the correct larger version. Thanks for posting the AAJ article, Kyagpa!. I was beggining to think I was a Scot'teryx for thinking the route was so hard and so long. I think the Nelson guide could be a bit misleading as to the technical difficulty. [ 11-05-2002, 11:14 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

Don't blame the traffic on me, I voted for R-51. (and I commute via mass transit.)

Yes on R-51.

I have some photos that I will scan and try post to the photo gallery. I was very impressed with the quality of climbing on this route. In current conditions, it is one of the most enjoyable routes I have done in the Cascades. I do find it very funny that we ran into a couple of fellows who flatly said 'the route is not in shape' as if it were an fact as indisputable as the sky being blue. They had not even been there. I wonder how people feel like they can spew beta for routes they have not even seen? [ 11-05-2002, 06:19 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

Lowered off of a titanium screw in a frozen clump of moss.

3 1/2 hours. 2 1/2 to Tacoma, 1 more hour to Mowich lake. Depending on traffic and your tolerance for driving fast on a rutted out road.

Paco, Second Bounce had a pair of Haggen skis with Silveretta 404 bindings for under 200 bucks last week. This is the same set up my old partner Nick uses and likes quite well. Dan

Greg W, What good is a strong economy if it destroys the water you drink and the air you breathe. Think that's hyperbole? Take a look at Mexico City or China or any other developing country that has put 'progress' ahead of environmental protection.

quote: I believe in RESPONSIBLE use and management; Would that be the same responsible management that has lead to the extinction of entire species, or the same responsible management that has allowed carcinogens such as PCBs and trichloroethelyne to enter drinking water aquifers? If it were not for environmental activists bringing important issues to light, the legislation that helps protect drinking water and air quality would never have happened. The government already tells you what kind of car you can drive or where you can or can't live and when and where you can hunt.

Yeah, those fuckin' tree huggers. How dare they want clear air to breathe and clean water to drink. What a bunch of pussies. Real men like Greg W like to drink polluted water and breathe noxious chemicals. Oh yeah, and guns are like 4 X 4 trucks; penis extenders.

Has anbody seen it recently? I'm curious what effect the precipitation has had on the route.

Greg W, Would you like to you try to write an ice climbing guide for this state? Do you think Beckey climbed all the routes in his guide books?Alex and Jason have put a lot of time and energy into researching this guide. I went with them once, and can fully appreciate their efforts at compiling an accurate, comprehensive guide. Unless you can do better your critism is unwarranted. Dan

Alex and I stopped there once and soloed up and down a few things, he in his Tevas, me in running shoes. I have since seen 1/4 bolts with a good 1" of bolt sticking out. I think the rock is mudstone.

Torrement-Forbidden is prone to lightning strikes. That's my beta. Oh yea, and Colin told me he wished he had brought two ice tools for the ice traverse. That's Colin's beta.

I am no ski expert, I just know what worked for me. I think 160 cm, (especially shaped) is a good marriage of downhill stability and controlabiliity with mtn boots. I know a number to climbers who use 140 cm skis for approaches. I went to Backpacker's supply and bought a pair of Atomic Alpin Tourcarv's for $199.00. I liked them because they were light and relatively cheap. Much nicer for uphill approaches as well as downhill skiing. [ 10-01-2002, 01:36 PM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

Can't help you with the binding question, but I would recommend getting shorter skis. I went from an old pair of 180's to an inexpensive pair of 160 cm, light weight shaped skis and it makes a huge difference in skiability, particularly if you are skiing in climbing boots. [ 10-01-2002, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

Thanks for the beta Lowell!

I have this Sunday free and I am looking to climb. One of the ice routes on Eldorado would be fun as would cragging in Leavenworth. I am open to suggestions. Please email at bighurtbob@hotmail.com

If you don't know what rack one should bring for C3, maybe you should start out on C1.