
dbb
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Everything posted by dbb
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Ian! Nice work on the book buddy!
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Join us at Feathered Friends, April 12th @ 7pm for an evening of climbing related film shorts from a Smash & Grab style ascent of Burkett Needle in Alaska to mixed climbing with Steve House to disabled climbers keeping the dream alive. Films by Dave Burdick and Duct Tape Then Beer folks Fitz Cahall and Austin Siadak. The American Alpine Club and the Washington Climbers Coalition will also be kicking off a fundraising campaign for a toilet at Vantage.
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Note: there was a small error in the temperature graphing that is now fixed. Also, hope to have an android version out later this winter.
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Felt long when I did it, but what descent off Stuart isn't long? I think that the round trip via Teanaway is probably easier though.
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Great info. I did the "Lite" version a couple weeks ago and the only thing I'd disagree with is the "runout" description for the end of pitch 6. The topo also says "scary 10d" but it's totally well protected. Sure you need to pull a couple moves above your gear but usually that means at your feet. Definitely not scary if your up for the rest of the burl fest! Also, a #2 camalot can be handy on the downward traverse of p3 as an extra piece.
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I remember seeing a modified ice screw of Paul Claus' used in a similar way to that first image. This one had a built in spool of webbing that you could clip to the knot in the rope. I recall him saying that they worked sometimes, but were unreliable.
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I took a lot of the comments from here and emails and incorporated them into a new version that is available now. Changes include: - sick day racoon lines can now be removed. Note: only available on iPhone 4 w/ the LED flash - now a native app on the iPad - works with devices down to iOS 3.0 - You can now view the raw data for Telemetry graphs - Added several Weather Forecast locations, including the Spokane, Idaho, and the Wallowas. - Added hourly forecast graphs for all Weather Forecast sites - Added the NWAC Mountain Forecast - Added several Satellite loops - Created a Web Cams section with many sites through Washington, Oregon and BC promo codes - get 'em while they're hot! (if you use one, consider writing a review) MLR9K9HXE3M4 L94NXPRHPF9H PKM7WP76KPFT and feel free to post here or email me suggestions: info@nwsnowbuddy.com
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Dan- Yep, working on it for this fall! scheissami - like Kevino mentioned, it draws data from all of the NWAC sites, so many areas in Northern Oregon are covered. What I would like to do is expand the weather forecast link section for Oregon, so if you have other point forecasts (http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/sew/) that you'd like to see added, drop me a line.
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Hey all, I wanted to post to explain how I use the new NW Snow Buddy iPhone app. I wrote the app to make checking snow related resources easier, so the following is roughly the steps I take to figure out where and when to ski good snow. Starting from the home page of the app: I'll usually check the Snowfall Predictions area first to see what the general snowfall amounts are going to be over the next few days across the state. When I looked on February 26th, 2011 I was stoked to see this: This told me that Monday the 28th ("+2 Days Snowfall") was going to be an amazing day for skiing, and that Sunday the 27th ("+1 Day Snowfall") would have some new snow but not as much. I'll then usually check the Weather Forecasts section for the NOAA point forecast where I'm going to be skiing. In this case, Sunday night was calling for 10-16 inches over night! This is all well and good if you are planning ahead and looking at what's coming. If you want to look back at what snow has already fallen, you'll want to use the Telemetry Data section. The data here is simply the NWAC weather data (precipitation, temperature, wind, 24 hour snowfall) shown all together in a single graph. This is what the snow looked like for Monday (the 28th) at Crystal Mountain: The graph is a little confusing to read at first because there is a lot of data packed into a small space. I'd suggest that you read this explanation first. That page contains a graphic that explains the axes of the graph and some example data. For the above graph: (-) you can see from the 24 hours cumulative snowfall plot (green dots) that there was a total of about 16" of snow at 6am on the morning of the 28th. rad! (-) the temperatures (orange/red lines) at 4480' (base of crystal) and 6870' (the top) stayed in the low teens to low 20s Fahrenheit. (-) the winds (vertical black bars) were pretty high Sunday (the 27th) night, averaging in the upper 30s with gusts up over 50mph! The winds conveniently calmed down to around 10mph for the daylight hours on Monday. (-) the blue bars are precipitation per hour. half way up the graph = 1 inch per hour, all the way up the graph = 2 inches per hour. 3am-5am on the 28th saw 1.75 inches of snow an hour. sick! (-) the fun didn't stop Sunday night, as we can see by the green dots that another 12" or so had fallen by the end of Monday the 28th. Still confused about the graphs? Touch the "Explain Graph" button from any Telemetry graph view to get a reminder of what things are. Here is Alpental's graph for the storm that happened the week before. Essentially, 8-12 inches each day: Finally, NWAC only shows the previous 10 days of data. With NW Snow Buddy, you can look back at all the data for the entire year. Simply touch the "Edit Dates" button on a Telemetry graph view and you'll get the following screen: You can select the length of time the graph shows here, up to 5 days. For a less epic powder example, here was a really nice day at Crystal (the 5th) with 8 inches over night. Note the little bit of warming on the 5th--good info to have as you arrive so you know to stay on higher, shaded aspects. If you have more questions or want more information, visit the website: http://www.nwsnowbuddy.com/ I hope some of you will find it as useful as I do. Dave
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[TR] Mt Kent North Face - Burdick-Fortier Var. 1/3/2011
dbb replied to Peakpimp's topic in Alpine Lakes
Nice job straightening the line out. Mt. Kent is surprisingly fun given how close it is to town, eh? -
cya looks to be in about the same shape as the last time I climbed it.
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best of cc.com [TR] Early Winter Spire- The Passenger IV 5.11c 8/30/2006
dbb replied to Sol's topic in North Cascades
Just thought I'd add a few more pieces of beta to this great report: On the crux 4th pitch, you can get a #0 C3 (green) in between the 2nd and 3rd bolt for the last couple moves up to the 3rd bolt. Not really needed, but doesn't hurt. Make sure to pull it after clipping the bolt due to drag. This pitch goes way left, then way back right (further right than the belay). Burdo added a better final pitch a year or two ago. Just keep climbing up the crack system, past the traverse into some dirty rock up to the big roof. Step right onto flakes, then move back left past a bolt to a nice finger crack in a corner (5.10a). Makes for an easy and aesthetic finish to the route. -
Updated with what is left: one blue, one yellow and a hand crack sized forged friend.
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For sale: 1x #1 Metolius - $20 1x #2 Metolius - $20 1x #3 Forged friend - $15 dave@alpinedave.com
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Essentially everyone is talking about the same book, the Atkinson Piche book published by Elaho. It is the bomb compared to the competition.
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doh!
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updated to remove sold items
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Sorry, I actually wrote that down wrong. The tunnel is size Medium, and the outer skirt is "L L".
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PM or email: dave@alpinedave.com BIG PINK! $30 Black Diamond Sabertooth crampons: $40 G3 Targa Telemark bindings with heel risers. $60 T2 Tele boots. Free - the liner is starting to tear, but have good life left in em. Saloman Super Mountain 9 - SOLD Raichle Eiger Boots. (Size 9 Men/10 Womens) - $10 - Solid leather mountaineering/hiking boot. Grivel Ice screw (13cm): $20 Rock climbing washington: $5 or free if you buy something else Snap Dragon white water spray skirt. (Tunnel size: M, outer size: LL): $40 - great shape.