dbb

Got to handle the tool recently. Nicely done BD. Some differences I noticed between the nomic and this are - that is indeed a MICRO HAMMER on there! - removable spike at the bottom for cragging/alpine - adjustable grip that doesn't change the angle of the pinky rest - metal at tip of the upper match Looking forward to climbing some pitches in em.

Nice guys. You recommend the route? Have visor, will travel.

To descend from the Terrace I prefer to: walk to the far climbers right on the terrace to its end (overlooking the west slabs). There is a slung tree that will allow you to rapp down onto the west slabs rappell route. one or two more tree anchors leads to chain anchors on the Westward Ho! route. You can also reach these rappells from the summit by rapping down there (though some from the summit are a bit brushy) If you have climbed the west buttress the nice thing about this descent is that you're deposited right back to your shoes/packs. If you were climbing Dark Rhythm or Jacobs Ladder then rapping this new option & Jacobs ladder is probably best.

Nice job David et al, glad to see that you guys finished a line on that bad boy! Dave

I think you should go with the jacket that fits you the best. For what it is worth, I have the ascensionist and love it for cold alpine rock, ice and x/c skiing. It seems to have a "harder" face (better wind protection) than my older schoeller garments.

Alpinfox is right that there is a stream near by that runs all season long. It is not at the base of the wall, but on the other side of the boulder field from the wall. It is only a couple minute walk away from the big flat bivi boulder. Matt's directions are good, and there is some flagging on the logging road right after the switch back that marks where you enter the woods. Pretty easy to follow 1.5 hour approach with gear.

and go do this route once you get up to speed. It's fun and easy (you can do it as easy as 5.7 A2). It could probably go clean too with cam hooks. http://www.alpinedave.com/darrington/Voodoo/Voodoo_Wall.htm

Glad to hear you're going to be okay Mark! Way to hang in there. Dave

Not sure if this has been posted here yet, but BD is coming out with a new version of the Fusion. From what I've heard it drytools just as well, but actually swings like a regular ice tool. Looks like a nice addition of a spike w/ a clip hole, and a possible micro hammer on the head.

Very nice line guys. The climbing looks great!

Saw some yellow Scarpa rock shoes at the base of Godzilla last night. Someone said that they were there yesterday too. They're still there.

Beautiful line Mr. Lunger! I know phil and co. have given that a try once. I found out from pete that it was you above us on hardy the week before. thanks for the steps!

Way to send John & Doug!

Gary- did you try this? Subscription manager is Denise, subscriptions@holpublications.com

Sounds like you guys need to dial in the "leave no trace" system a bit.

I'm going to ask you a bunch of questions and i want them answered immediately

check out mt. kent's north face. it is right next to McClellans Butte. There are several cool gully climbs, and if the entrance ice at the bottom is missing you can always jungle up the trees on the side. Really easy day trip from seattle. Most routes are about AI2/3.

no tele and splitboard divisions at alpental this year?

I too loved the old dry tool glove for leading ice. They actually replaced that glove with the BD "Impulse". They categorize it under ski descent, so it is less available at shops, unfortunately. However, it is a rad glove: some light knuckle padding, leather palm, a warm-enough thick schoeller/powershield outter, and a wrist velcro. A real benefit of these over the old dry tools is that they are more ergonomically contoured (instead of totally strait fingers). Much warmer than the torque, though those are excellent gloves as well.

Hey C- From being on the face, I'm pretty sure that the Folsom route goes up the snowy/wet weakness in the center of the face. Rolf's route from this fall shares much of the same terrain. The rock on the face is shale-like, somewhat loose and compact. That might not translate to the ridge, but hard to say. I think Jens might have made an attempt on the ridge a few years ago.

it is supposed to warm up for a couple days, but then cool down again. If it doesn't fall down with this heat wave it will probably be good. A safe piece of advice for Fugs is to climb it in the morning before the sun gets on it. thanks for the pics!

CYA is totally gone! Here Today Gone Tomorrow & the Yellow Pillar are still there kiddie cliff in the alpental valley is fat and below freezing

they also done gone an found da internets out dere: http://montanaice.com/forum/12/

nice Scott, looks like some great stone!

just an FYI, if that fixed pin on CYA is out left, placed from right to left and is a knifeblade, it is probably not very good. hard to get out (nearly fixed mine too), but a fairly weak placement. Glad to hear the #4 camalot worked! a couple more from Skookum yesterday: CascadeClimber on p1 topping out on p3