JasonG

and the huts!

Yep, thanks for figuring it out for the rest of us! More importantly, glad you didn't get hurt on your slip on the descent.

Excellent timing! I was wondering if you stuck to the original plan, it all looked like it was coming together after all. Post up a TR if you have the time.

Unless you have a very large window (and a guide), your chances of success during that time frame are slim to none. Often we have some of our most active weather of the season during that time, and we are heading into a La Nina. Come in mid-July and hire a guide service. I suspect nearly all of them that guide Rainier will give you a great experience.

I can see I need to spend more time hiking around at night.

No marmots?

Is that an old #4 or a new one? The weight difference is pretty dramatic between the two generations of C4s, especially on the big cams.

Ha! Thanks all, but Zak is right, I need to keep my day job. He should probably keep his too. I've got a long way to go to reach the big leagues. Glad you all like the photos, we really got lucky with the weather and conditions. This was my third trip up on the Wapta and I guess what they say is right. Time to go back for the Bow-Yoho now that they have that new hut!

South Twin and the 'schrund from N. Twin :

I personally like Stuart more than any Volcano, especially this time of year. I'm not sure if anyone carries much in the way of 7.5' maps anymore. I would highly recommend Gaia or Avenza pdf apps for your mapping needs, depending on how much you want to spend or not. NW forest passes can be bought at a range of gear stores and ranger stations en route (REI in Seattle for sure), same with fuel.

As you know, you're damn lucky. When backing down, always turn around frequently and make sure there aren't strange looking areas below you, holes, etc. And, sliding while facing in with two tools is a recipe for problems regardless of whether or not there is a hole below you. That 'schrund on the S. Twin is well-known and obvious on aerial photos, guidebook photos, etc. A bit of research on the descent you had chosen should have made you wary, esp. given how fast things are melting out this year. I know I'm sounding a bit harsh, but the mountains often don't give you a second chance. Fortunately you gained some experience, without much cost, that will serve you on later climbs. Remember the lessons!

This is the stuff I almost never bring back out of the hills (i.e. I eat it first): Landjaeger Cheese Dark Chocolate (w/ nuts, caramel, sea salt, or whatever) Ramen noodles (don't judge) dried fruit Whiskey/Scotch of any type I always bring way too many bars, especially on long trips. Real food is where it is at.

Your first link is probably the best. It'd be an easy decision for me with that forecast- no go. Unless the forecast changes dramatically, I think you should plan for other objectives. I always like to read the NWS forecast discussion, here is the long term section: .LONG TERM... Models continue to show a cooler and showery period for the extended forecast period. A large closed low off the WA coast Friday shifts east across the area on Saturday. Still some differences with the precise track but overall models show quite a bit of showers over the area on Saturday...especially in the Cascades. This system exits and is replaced by a brief flat ridge on Sunday which should allow for drier conditions. The GEM is the odd model out...with the low slower to move out with showers persisting into Sunday. For now the faster GFS/ECMWF model solutions are preferred. Another system enters as early as Sunday night and lingers through next week. Models differ with the details this far out with the strength and timing of the initial front Sunday night into Monday. Thus chance POP`s still look on track for early next week. /JW http://forecast.weather.gov/product.php?site=SEW&issuedby=SEW&product=AFD&format=CI&version=1&glossary=1 You might also want to play around here if you are a weather geek like me: http://www.atmos.washington.edu/wrfrt/data/timeindep/gfsinit.d3.6hr.html

Trip: The Wapta Traverse - Peyto to Sherbrooke and lots in between Date: 4/20/2016 Trip Report: In mid-April, at the height of the existential electoral malaise sweeping the country, five Skagitonians trekked to the Great White North on the first ever "Make Canada Great (Again?)" International Alpine Trump rally. Why the Wapta you might ask? That's a good question that we still don't know the answer to. We do know that we had perfect weather the entire trip (six days!) with the sun high in the sky each day, mimicking the golden glow of Trump's tan. It was an omen that we were on a divine mission to spread a special sort of ignorance to our kind (and very white!) neighbors to the North. In the end, we were able to shout the good news from the mountaintops of Baker, Habel, Rhonnda, St. Nicholas (no presents up there, we looked), Olive, and Balfour, while sleeping in the highly adequate accommodations provided by the ACC. However, we ran into very few converts on this first ever international Trump rally- much to our dismay. While the Canadians were polite, they seemed quite distrustful of the coming tanned savior. Except for one guy. His steely gaze, small hands, and healthy sled dogs (Truth and Valor) marked him as someone who understands power and the love of a trophy woman. His name was Justice Bowie. Justice convinced us that the plush alpine accommodations, lack of brush, good weather, and general pleasant ski terrain had forever taken the edge off our (very white!) brethren to the North. It was almost as if they were (gasp!) European. Well, they do have a Queen so it sort of makes sense. That's the first thing they're going to have to take care of if they want to be Great (Again?). Next, they're going to have to do something about that food. And the beer. Justice is working on it right now, I'm sure. Gear Notes: Hunter oats for the ponies Approach Notes: Some sort of planks for the up and down. Make sure the lakes are frozen.

I would give it six stars if I could. And Timmay??!! The planets have aligned, it is an auspicious day.

That's ridiculously fast!

There have been at least two more deaths at Baker in that same spot (just skier's left below the top of the hogsback) over the past decade. BMR actually ribboned it off after pulling a couple people out in one week a few seasons ago.

No, sorry Dan, you're right. I blame my over the hill brain. Given the number of times I've been to the north side of Stuart (last year even!) you'd think I could get it right.

If you would like something a bit mellower than Stuart, I would recommend a hike up Wolf Creek and a scramble of the Gardners. Very lonely back in there and beautiful. Also, Silverstar is a nice summit that can be done in marginal weather. That one is a bit more of a climb than the Gardners, but still mellow to an aesthetic summit. You might want to look into Black Peak as well (although a scramble as well). The NE ridge is a good climb but might be more than you want. Lots of good east side options if the forecast keeps trending the way it is.....

But there were BEARS!

You might want to give the ranger station a call if you haven't already. They patrol up there nearly every week. Also, a lot of climbers from out of the area use the BB trail. These folks aren't likely to check cc.com, but they will maybe turn your gaiters in at the ranger station.

We just climbed withing a couple hundred feet of this wreckage yesterday (most is still there): http://www.bellinghamherald.com/news/local/article27313879.html Sobering.

It's got to be Scott, hands down. He's climbed Baker 27 times, and I'm sure half of those or more are ski descents. I'm probably not quite at 10 ascents total.

Trip: Mount Baker - Coleman-Deming Date: 5/30/2016 Trip Report: Memorial Day weekend is never one that you can reliably count on for good weather around here, and this year was no exception. However, Monday got better and better looking as the weekend unfolded and some hasty plans were hatched to help Scott with his annual tick of Mount Baker. The telemetry and forecast suggested we would find some settled powder(!), and so with little sleep we left the Skag in the trusty Civic, pointed North. First we needed to get Spiceman some breakfast so we stopped at Aarco in Sedro at 0415. The scene was not exactly normal (what did we expect?)..... and we left quickly, empty-handed. At the trailhead we left right behind team Rando at about 0600, clomping up the hill in our ski boots while they dashed onwards in much lighter footwear. Though you might have been able to skin up a bit lower, we didn't end up taking the skis off our backs until the top of the Hogsback. From there we kept the uphill plod going, skinning to the col with the help of ski crampons (necessary). The bootpack this year goes much further left (east) than normal, though the normal path looks like it might go. We weren't in the mood to routefind though so we followed the masses (there were about 40 on the hill that day). Above the col we carried the skis for a bit up the pumice ridge, but were eventually able to put them back on and skin all the way to the summit, which we had to ourselves (surprisingly). Some meat, cheese, chocolate, and pictures and it was time to transition before the sun did a number on the snow. The Roman wall was firm wind affected snow, pumice ridge softening crust, settled powder below the col, and varying degrees of butter and corn below that all the way to the Hogsback. Basically good to excellent the whole way and perhaps the best conditions I've skied Baker in. But the warm weather at the end of this week will change all that......so long spring. Gear Notes: skis! and ski crampons. The boot pack was knee deep, and looked slogriffic. Approach Notes: Nothing out of the ordinary

Near Sunset Slabs.