JasonG

Trip: Davis Peak - South Ridge Date: 6/3/2017 Trip Report: Which peak in Washington has the largest vertical drop, within one horizontal mile of the summit? Before this weekend I would have guessed Slesse, J-burg, Goode, Hozomeen.....and I would have been wrong. Strangely enough, it's Davis Peak, a summit that Fred says "is seldom visited because of the very rugged approach and rocky flanks." One hundred and twelve years after the first ascent this still holds true, if the last few years are any indication (the historic register that went back many decades disappeared about 10 years ago, and was replaced in 2013). How seldom, one might wonder? About one party a year makes the trek. So that means that if you were thinking of going up this year, too bad, it's done for the season, Park Service is all out of permits. But for those going NEXT year, the one thing that you won't find in the Beckey guide is that a fire burned most of the south side of Davis in 2015. An impressive amount too- at least the bottom 3,000 vertical feet. This adds considerable enjoyment to the ascent, and perhaps a little danger if you believe in widowmakers. However, if you have an entertaining crew along as we did this past weekend, the minor challenges of the ascent actually serve as the punchlines to an otherwise lighthearted ramble up fire-scorched slabs. It's all so civilized. Gear Notes: Helmet, axe, crampons. The scramble is exposed 3rd/4th out of the notch, so a rope is your choice. We didn't bring one and it felt fine. Approach Notes: Fred has an accurate description. Prepare for shenanigans at all elevation bands. With generous stops and a summit nap it was about 10-11 hours RT.

We don't know what you're talking about.

I'm about as smart as a horse so that just might work. I'm going to start tonight. Thanks!

Awesome Dave, thanks! Will give it a shot. I think I've realized that laying off it just isn't going to work. I need to start PT.

Ok, so I guess I'm old. Since entering my 40's several years back, I can't seem to shake lingering tendon issues. Hips, fingers, knees, etc. Most recently, I've been plagued by sore tendons in my left elbow (seems like tennis elbow though I don't play tennis). It that hasn't gone away despite relative rest for the past several months. Any climbing that requires much grip strength is right out. I have no idea how I injured it, which seems to be the case for all my tendon maladies. I tried stretching and massage which helps in the moment, but it all stiffens pretty quick again, and remains painful. Any tips?

Spray still has what it takes

But was anyone called a knucklehead in your shooting range example?

The hills are dangerous. Period. Sanitizing TRs is perhaps one of the worst ideas for this site ever. This has been, and always will be, a game that demands attention to detail. It's your own responsibility to recognize dangers that can change by the day and hour, and especially when you are exceeding your own abilities. Don't depend on the internet to do it for you.

Maybe I'm just lucky, but in 20 years of climbing I honestly haven't had one close call rappelling. Or it may be because early on in my climbing career I read ANAM obsessively and have always been scared of rapping. I also tend to follow the standard BMPs (mark rope middle, clip in, test before unclip, never simul-rap, etc.). It isn't hard to do it without incident, but you certainly don't often get second chances if your attention to detail flags. One thing I could be better about is backing up rappels. On long descents with good rock I will often forgo this, but I really shouldn't. Now close calls with objective hazard, on the other hand.....

What does Petzl know? Climbing on anything over 5 years old is just plain dangerous. Better send those suspect cams and 'biners to me for proper disposal.

skis

Indeed. You rarely are allowed a non-horrifying way to learn a rappel lesson.

There's tons of TRs in the database. Search Argonaut, click on the NE couloir ones. I have one in there from 2007.

Most importantly, DAN IS BACK!

Boom! Most are probably aware of this article by now, but I got a good laugh out of this thread being mentioned in it!

Don't be ashamed of laying to waste slide alder, or any veg up the Mtn. Loop for that matter. It has probably already grown back. Thanks for the work!

Why not something like the Nano-air hoody to replace the softshell? Much lighter and more breathable.

This made my day.

Dan, I want a picture of you with the jacket and scarf! I've never been to Denali, but imagine that you are going to have a hard shell anyways? If so, I think that your typical softshell isn't going to be a good layer to lug. Like Dan points out, lots of other layers out there that are more versatile and lighter and will compliment the hard shell better. And a merino wool scarf. Don't forget that!

Damn. That is a fine route, but the exit looks even spicier than normal this year! I once fell un-roped into the 'schrund, but that might not be a big concern this snowy spring.

Thanks for pointing that out Darin....that is the best part! Were you along on Fallen Angel Mutz?

As you've probably gathered by now, the springs of 2015 and 2016 were about as abnormal as you can get. This year is closer to reality, though a bit wetter than normal. If I ever have friends visit from out of the area for Alpine climbing....last week of July/first week of August. Push it to early July for the volcanoes.

You'll be in good company Larry. Ran into many ex-pat Americans and Canadians living down there for the winter. Super cheap living on a fixed income, sun every day, etc., etc. I could see spending at least Nov/Dec down there every winter. I still like skiing..... Take up kite boarding! Looks amazing and is one of the world's best spots to enjoy. I was jealous watching everyone.

Climbing vacations are overrated. Head to the beach!