JasonG

No photo?

Summary: Climbing is scary and may kill or maim you, especially if you make a mistake. It still may, even if you don't make a mistake. On the plus side, we are all going to die.

I have two of these harnesses that my kids have outgrown. Barely used and in great shape. Both come with carry bag. $30 each or $50 for both. I live in Mount Vernon but can get then to Seattle or Bellingham area.

Oops. Carry on then. Yes, please write up that ascent @Szyjakowski!

@G-spotter beat you to that one! It basically boils down to.... Booty being in the eye of the beholder

What about a bolt ladder on something that hasn't seen a free ascent, like on Monkey Face? We encountered this at Smith in 2003 without a note or sign anywhere around to indicate someone was working the route. No ropes, no chalk, not a soul around, but new draws on every bolt. I realize this might be hard to believe in this day and age.

I did a little translating for you.... Nice work, you've made all us Smooters proud.

A D750 with the 24-120mm Nikkor f4 mostly. I have a 20mm f1.8 that I brought on this trip as well. Glad you like the photos!

I think you'll enjoy @Colin's take on hard solo climbing: http://www.colinhaley.com/a-brief-visit-to-patagonia-and-reflections-on-hard-solo-climbing/

19! Still a few of us OGs around, although math is obviously hard for us. @jon you should bring back the member numbers on the profiles!

Your TRs always have such incredible beta. The attention to detail and annotation is impressive. Thanks and good luck next time!

There may have been Pink Floyd involved and us wishing you were here @sepultura! And no @Rad I didn't....but it sounds like I should have?

@Otto- I tried to link to a photo on G-drive and it doesn't seem to work like Google Photos. Still, it isn't hard to save from G-Drive locally and then upload to the site. In the long term that really is better than a link which can break. Old TRs are littered with them.... Thanks for working thru this!

Trip: Summit Chief - Standard Scramble Trip Date: 09/21/2019 Trip Report: I'm normally not one to hike in and out in the rain, but desperate times call for desperate measure and the end of summer is one such occasion. So, armed with a glimmer of hope in the forecast we marched in to Vista tarns last weekend with our sights set on Summit Chief and Little Big Chief. The former was a Smoot and the latter, well, it looked cool. Spoiler alert, we got the Smoot (straightforward Cl. 3 once you deciphered the description correctly) but not the little one, which proved to be more time consuming in late season than we had the desire for. Still, the area has much to recommend, as you'll see in the photos below. It isn't nicknamed Snoqualmonix for nothing- probably the most rugged terrain south of Hwy 2 is found in this area, and not a lot of peak baggers....yet. Judging by the summit register on Summit Chief, this area is rapidly becoming popular. Going from 1-2 parties a year to 11 this year. So, I guess, I'm part of the problem. And so it goes. Lucky shot: East Face of Chimney Rock: Summit Chief on the left and Middle Chief on the right: Stuart and Waptus Lake: Rainier, Chimney Rock, Overcoat Peak (L-R): Summit of Summit Chief: RIP Franklin: Glacial recession is a bitch: Little Big Chief: We opted to scramble up here and enjoy the afternoon, rather than rushing to climb LBC and arrive at camp after dark: Last dip of summer in an unnamed lake on the way back from LBC : This one: LBC: Three Queens: Bear's Breast (L) and Mount Daniel behind on the right: Overcoat: Chimney Rock and Overcoat in early morning light: Chicken of the Woods: Cooper River in the rain on the way out: Gear Notes: helmet, ice axe, crampons Approach Notes: Pete Lake Trail to PCT to Vista Tarns. We cam out the Escondido ridge "trail" but I wouldn't recommend going up that way.

Hi @Otto good to have you looking for this info! You'll notice that you can choose files from the bottom of a post, which is pretty easy if they are saved locally. If they aren't you can post a link to the photo and I think it will work, but for the long term it really is better if you can upload to the site (I export from Lightroom at lower res and upload directly to cc.com). But, to show that it works from Google Photos, here's this from my account (you have to click on photo then right click and copy image location): I'm not sure that it works from Google Drive, but I hope it is similar?

Good eye for the interesting photos!

And the photos are excellent! I've been on the fence about linking Snowfield to Eldo given that I've been in both areas a lot over the years, but I think you may have finally tipped me over to actually putting it on my list.

Way to persevere in late season conditions! That is a lot of rugged country without snow....

La Nada.....

So crazy all the traffic that West Fury got this year. Too bad you didn't get the views!!

Paging @glassgowkiss and @G-spotter .....

This deserves a bump....cool link-up!

Thanks @Stefan! If you're the same Stefan I'm thinking you are, we put your annotated map to good use on this trip. I'm amazed at all you got around to on your trip.

Trip: Tenpeak and Kololo- Witness to Vanishing Ice - Standards Trip Date: 09/01/2019 Trip Report: The Cascades have become a bit of a gong show in recent years, and much more so on holiday weekends. This was on full display the Saturday of Labor Day weekend as @therunningdog and I slogged up the North Fork Sauk trail en route to White Pass, passing no less than 50 (!) people bound for Glacier Peak the next day. The overflowing parking area attested to the fact that many more were already up the trail, somewhere. But, unsurprisingly, nobody was headed to Tenpeak or Kololo and we left them all behind as soon as we left the Foam Creek route for the character building traverse to the White River Glacier. An unforecasted rain squall was bearing down on us as we crested the moraine below the glacier and gazed out on a large lake that wasn't on our maps. There was no way to cross the outlet (we had read) and the traverse around it looked tenuous at best with loose debris perched on steep slabs. But the alternatives were even worse so we rock hopped and chossed our way around to the bare ice, barely making it to flat gravel as the heavens unleashed. This is what we came for? Camp "Grim" was christened as we soggily established camp where ice was just a few years before. The weather cleared at dusk but the forecast for the next day was worse so we drowned our sorrows in whiskey and the Ron Burgundy podcast. Did you know that your brain shrinks to 65% of its normal volume during deep sleep so cerebral spinal fluid can pump around and flush out toxins? Ron didn't either. Anyways, the next day dawned so-so as expected but we didn't have anything else to do so began the tedious and long slog around the Hive, over the shoulder of West Tenpeak, and around to the Standard route on Tenpeak. While scenic, glacial recession in this area has made for rugged travel, sans snow. Expect a full day return. The regular route on Tenpeak is short, has a bit of fifth class, and is actually pretty decent. Given the approach (White River isn't a lot better), nobody will be surprised that it only gets a party or so a year. The register was placed in 1972 and appeared to have scrap of paper with Fred's name signed to it. This is probably the only register I've seen with that honor (if it is legit), as all others I've seen with him have been photocopies of the original entry. After a long while admiring the view (the weather had cleared) and delaying the tedious descent/return to camp, we bid adieu and headed for Camp Grim. On the way back we coined the acronymn "YOCO" to describe Tenpeak- as in a peak You Only Climb Once. Still, I thought it was worth climbing....once. Monday was clear and glorious as forecasted so we took our time climbing up to the col west of Kololo that would give us access to the what's left of the Whitechuck Glacier. Dropping packs we went for a scenic ramble up to the summit of Kololo, a fantastic viewpoint of the surrounding area. Nobody around for miles it seemed, but a short ways off we knew the masses were packing up and heading home. By the time we crevasse hopped our way down the bare ice and joined the climber's path, we didn't run into anybody until some horsepackers on the Foam Creek path who were picking up USGS gear. The hike out the NF Sauk was a lot quieter than on the way in, but enlivened by a few parties. The most memorable of which had a member who had packed AT boots all the way to high camp because "they were the only boots that fit my crampons". Wow! So, if the trails are going to be crowded, at least there's always the people watching. Captions refer to the photo below ..... Hiking in on the NF Sauk: Indian Head Peak: Uh oh: Camp at the toe of the White River Gl: Honeycomb Gl. crusin': Dakobed: West Tenpeak. We didn't summit because we didn't want to break out the rope: Snout of Honeycomb (L), Signing in on Tenpeak (R): Gneiss!: The magnificent desolation of the White River Gl.: Treat your water people: This is what we came here for!: What's left of the Whitechuck Gl.: Tenpeak is the dark tower: Whitechuck crevasse hopping: I've never seen a tarn like this, have you?: The ultra classic Sloan: I tend to forget what a nice valley the NF Sauk is: Gear Notes: half rope and light rack to 2" for Tenpeak. Ice axe and Al crampons. Helmet Approach Notes: Pick your poison. Long, rugged and scenic from NF Sauk or brushy and long from White River