JasonG

Thanks, this is great!

Awesome story! I will have to get better at reading those. I guess I was thinking that the clouds would ride up over the summit if there was strong wind and precip? Do you have a good sense for when that happens, or what a time-eight would look like when it would? Or does the time-height accurately predict how high the moisture will be allowed to be pushed (before condensing and dropping out) over terrain?

Thanks @Michael Telstad and @sfuji! I should have added that the busy trails and trailhead were mostly backpackers. The routes in the Cirque were quite a bit quieter than I was expecting, especially if you aren't on Pingora or Wolf's Head. Even on those classics, it wasn't terrible (party or two), and I have a very low tolerance for crowds. As far as camera gear, I lugged in my full frame D750 and a few lenses in. I didn't bring my 20mm( which would have been perfect since it is quite fast), but used by 24-70mm for those shots (f4 for 20-25 sec at high ISOs). Any longer than about 25 seconds at that focal length and the stars start to blur. I propped the camera on rocks to save the weight of a tripod.

Trip: Wind River Range- Cirque of the Towers - Pingora, Wolf's Head, Overhanging, Warbonnet, Warrior, Bollinger Trip Date: 07/22/2020 Trip Report: And so the catch up continues from last year....We're up to July 2020 and the annual week long climbing trip with @Trent and whatever other partners in crime we can dredge up from the dark corners of the Skag. For 2020 it was JP and not only did he bring the gun show, but also the van that carried us in style to the TH. The destination last year was the mythical Cirque of the Towers in Wyoming's Wind River range, and it did not disappoint! But first we had to get there. It is a long drive! But we had JP's trusty steed and three drivers to blunt the trauma. Still, we were all surprised how busy the West was last summer. People were everywhere! Including at least 100 cars at the TH. The Cascades aren't the only busy place these days, but the skies are still pretty dark... Gearing up for the hike in before we get to the madhouse of the TH The hike in was quick and relatively painless by Cascadian standards, despite our big packs. The altitude was noticeable, however. We scored a great site as you first descend into the Cirque, which afforded great views of the popular peaks/routes. We were advised to bring a pair of binoculars for the inevitable epics that unfold wherever 50 Classic Climbs are located. Great advice! The weather was forecast to be great for the first few days, without the thunderstorms that are common in the range. We immediately hatched a plan to do the Cirque Traverse in two days. Day one would be the South Buttress of Pingora into the East Ridge of Wolf's head followed by a return to camp. Day 2 would be Overhanging Tower to Warbonnet, saving us from carrying bivy gear. The whole thing was supposed to be quite reasonable (~5.8) for a competent party, spread out over two days. We went to bed early, pretty psyched for the next couple days. And sure enough it dawned clear and we off early to Pingora, getting on it first. What a great, straightforward climb! The K-cracks especially were clean and super fun. Looking across to the East Ridge of Wolf's Head: Soon we were on top and looking at the next objective for the day. The storied East Ridge of Wolf's Head! We rapped into the Tiger Tower notch, climbed over Tiger and rapped into the start of the route. It gets wild right off the bat and stays aesthetic and exposed the whole way. A deserved classic! But not exactly straightforward routefinding, and very old school ratings. It felt harder than the 5.8 on Pingora! Hmmmmmm. But we figured it out, and made it all the way to the top in the end. We felt like we had really done something. Now, how do we get down to the Overhanging Tower col? A few raps, some choss, head scratching, and exposed scrambling, and we eventually found our way, pleased to have the first part of the traverse under our belts and supposedly the technical crux behind us. We chossed our way back to camp and prepared for a long day. We started before dawn again and made our way back up to the unsavory choss that guards the Overhanging col. Overhanging tower went down quickly with just a bit of exposed scrambling and we were left staring at the intimidating North Face of Shark's nose. How the hell? We had only brought a half rope and light rack, expecting to simul everything on this day (supposedly to 5.6 with careful routefinding- "act accordingly"). Hmmmmmm. Steve, descending towards Shark's Nose from Overhanging Tower. Careful!: You're supposed to corkscrew around this face, we made it about 2/3rds height before getting lost and intimidated. Both Steve and JP took turns on the sharp end trying to find a reasonable way up the Shark's Nose for three guys without much gear all moving together. Nothing felt casual enough to them and I politely declined to try myself. It all looked way harder than "5.6"! Turns out, we were right on route, just needed to have set up a proper belay and done a real pitch. Oh well....and so we retreated back to the col and camp and went fishing! The fishing is quite good at Lonesome Lake, if you bring a spinning rod. I didn't have hardly any luck with my fly rod, either at the surface or dredging the depths with buggers and a sinking line. A first for me in an alpine lake. JP absolutely slayed them, however! And then we had to come up with a new plan. JP and @Trent were gunning for the other 50 Classic, the NE face of Pingora, but I was worried about slowing them down if I tagged along. And so I came up with a plan to scramble Warbonnet and Warrior (the other end of the Cirque Traverse) while they went and climbed the very good looking rock of Pingora again (no photos from me of their day, maybe they'll add them?). I think we both had fun the next day, but I admit that I probably should have slowed them down instead. The scramble routes on Warbonnet and Warrior and super chossy and not that aesthetic! But great views nonetheless.... Up on the high summits I had good cell coverage so got a forecast. It was trending wet and cold for the next couple of days, especially the next morning. So, reconvened back at camp we thumbed through the guide and stumbled on Bollinger and the "Class 3" route up the NE ridge. By this point we knew to expect 4th class! The next day dawned stormy and wet so we lazed around camp until it looked more promising. Just in case we brought our fishing gear and cached it down at the lake on our way around Pingora to Bollinger. And, as expected, it wasn't straightforward 3rd class, but still good fun nonetheless and recommended if you have iffy weather in the Cirque. Afterwards, it was back to the lake for more fishing! We had one more possible day left to climb, but we also realized that if we left a day early we would have a day at home with our families before heading out to work. And so, satisfied, we enjoyed one last night in the Winds, drinking the rest our whiskey, watching Neowise, and spotting headlamps of tardy climbers on Pingora and Wolf's Head. The next day we slowly packed camp and sauntered out of the range, joining the masses on the trail and merging into the scrum of the parking lot and busy western highways. Where will next year take us? Gear Notes: Bug net and repellent! Standard rack. 60m rope, helmet. Binoculars for late evening "Must see TV" Approach Notes: Follow the herd

And here I thought it was Cpt. Caveman!

EXACTLY Let me know when you are looking to get out this year @olyclimber. Would be fun to get out! I need Mt. Anderson still.....

of course!

ooooooooohhhhhhh, now this TR is about to get exciting!

EXTREME ALPINISM! Yes, of course. Such a great read. I was once taken to task by Dr. Doom himself (via IG) for not packing a lighter in every pocket, "as the book says". I had doomed @Trent and I's "Unsuccessful" Cleaver trip on Rainier due to forgetting a lighter (D'oh!), so we couldn't melt snow high on the mountain. For Twight, that was just too stupid of a reason to retreat. He hasn't met me, however - that is just the beginning of my stupidity! You would have thought he was referring to the Bible, but no, HIS bible.

Ah! Not quite as far east as I remembered. Thanks! Oh, and all I could find were some ST references to Buhl carrying snowballs through the streets of Innsbruck. Quite the dude!

I seem to remember some Eastern bloc alpinist saying that he trained for winter climbing by taking ice cold showers and making snow balls with bare hands. He claimed you could train your body to stay warm at all metabolic costs, i.e. not shunt blood from your extremities.

Wow!!!

Quality report, start to finish. Thanks for the effort, both on the hill and in the interwebs!

I always seem to run into UFOs on the volcanoes, but they never want to put me out of my misery.

Yes @JayB, you're not dead yet! There are summits and routes on the other side of that "filter". Give me a shout when you emerge!

Welcome to the madhouse. We are a strange bunch, but we mean well. Well, most of us. Just trying to save you from some of my mistakes. I've almost been killed twice falling unroped into crevasses. The third is sure to get me. Don't be like me!

This. Thankfully I had @cfire and @Trent to gun my sorry ass along the traverse a few years ago. Either together or alone, the Index peaks deliver. Agreed that I'm quite impressed with winter ascents, hard to fathom!

Sounds like you're the expert here @Dead Man, but I wish you luck with your internet search for even greater knowledge.

Uh.....yes.

Take it up with Dallas. But I'm glad that your experience brought you to register at this illustrious domain. Welcome to the madhouse!

That's a proud tick boyz, nice work!

That is impressive dedication to Mt Ann! A long day from the Heather meadows parking area on snowshoes for sure.

Nice work team! But where are the snowshoes?!!

The SE side of Baker Lake. I had extra room once @Alisse confirmed that the summit beers were covered.

Index in Winter IS most certainly MEGA! Well done @Doug_Hutchinson and Mik!!