JasonG

Yep, there are forums for the sub-areas of the Cascades. No problem, I moved it here!

Do you mean the peaks in Oregon @wingclimber? If so, I will move the thread.....

Luna and Terror Basin XC zones regularly fill up on weekends now! This is a big change from even 5 years ago.

You put in for the lottery at the end of March each year. Shhhhhh. It used to be poorly known, but I heard this year they got 5k applications. Oh well, it was good while it lasted.

Wow, I didn't realize that Whitehorse had become crowded-good to know! I have a couple vivid memories of that final slope below the summit. Back in the 90's I decided that it was a good idea to leap off the summit into a sitting glissade down it. By the time I realized that this was a very bad idea, I was going so fast that stopping was not an option! Thankfully, I skipped my way to the flats in control, without impaling myself. Then, some years later, I snowboarded it in too firm conditions. Same story- by the time I realized I made a mistake, there was no stopping. Again, thankfully, I managed to stay upright and in control for some sketchy turns down to the flats. It takes me awhile to learn from my mistakes.

Jack. . Well done, and with your son, no less! That is still on my list for later this summer, but we'll see.

As with any pickets trip for a defined window, I think your biggest obstacle will be the weather. I imagine there will be a log to cross (seems like there always is), but maybe not in the exact spot as last year. Great shot! What is your astro lens of choice?

And in place of toilet paper. But they were two different sticks. He had a system!

I have to say that this thread shows the board's, uh, maturation. "Don't end up like me, use Invisalign!" -FB

Trip: Jack - Nohokomeen Headwall Trip Date: 05/30/2021 Trip Report: Ever since this route has become popular, I've wanted to check it out. Jack is hard to ignore from anywhere, but especially from Ross Lake, where my family and I typically like to camp for a week each August. While I have climbed Jack from the east side, the north side is the show stopper from Ross, with the giant Nohokomeen Glacier dominated the view from the north end of the lake. In the words of @Trent (though he couldn't join @therunningdog @sparverius @kmfoerster and I), "It must be climbed!" And so we did. But it wasn't fast. We spread our effort over three days, with one full day for the summit and associated lounging, and another day on either end for approaching and running away. We waited until the highway was open, so there was none of that uncivilized biking stuff you might have seen on nwhikers. No way! We were, uh, civilized. And very serious- so serious this mountain climbing business. No joking, no laughing, no resting, and certainly no campfire or whiskey... It was all business and very professional. That's how we roll. Gear Notes: Snowshoes were handy for portions....ice axe, light 2nd tool, aluminum crampons, helmet, light glacier gear. We soloed the headwall up and down Approach Notes: East Bank trail and then up by May Creek. East bank trail is mostly cut out, only one log to hop over. Light brush and pretty straightforward travel and routefinding up the hill, based on where it looks best on the map. Nohokomeen Headwall is to about 50-55 degrees and the summit ridge is exposed.

The top will have some steep snow below the false summit to contend with in June and some punchy snow wherever it is thin. I've used the Cascadian a few times over the years, always to descend, and always mostly snow-free. It is pretty fine without snow, but I'm not picky. Each season will have its own challenges, but I think the major deciding factor should be how comfortable your group is on steep snow that could be icy. Are you ALL good with crampons and axe?

We used a Sherpani Rhumba for our kids and it was great on long hikes and overnights. If you can find one used I would recommend it since they aren't made any longer....

This TR wins the blue collar climbing award of the week! Love it- the style of the report, the climbing, the photos.... the entire package.

Sweet! I've wondered about this one....

So....no ropes or glacier travel @Cascade Renegade? If so....Thornton Peak, West MacMillan Spire, and Mount Prophet would fit the bill. There are other options other than accessed by Hwy 20. But any of the above are still full on adventures where you could easily be hurt or killed if you aren't experienced in off trail travel and scrambling.

Well done, that's a big day!

I gathered that. We were chatting for a bit since he was lapping the upper part of the Boulder route (above the crater) while waiting for the Coleman to soften. He was telling us that he had done the Nooksack traverse (in a day) a couple days prior . His advice on how to get as fast as him? ...."volume". Ummmmm, yes. I think so! Though we didn't look closely.... We were doing a leisurely 2 day trip so it was nice to camp low on the ridge above the fixed line. It actually looked to be in fine shape, at least the part above the snow. Worked great as a handline, but you could have easily put a prussik on it if we had dug our harnesses out. There are many rings to rap off of using a rando rope on the way down, if you are so inclined.

Thanks for sharing your trip to a far flung corner of AK! Glad you made it back safe.

So true. The climbing is easier but at least I am working harder than ever.

We couldn't quite see around the corner so I don't have anything to report. Sorry! We may have hit it better than your Halloween ski, but I have to say that your idea for last weekend was perhaps a bit better. I plan to copy you (maybe not the exact lines, however) in the next couple of years!

It is true @Bronco! Mostly it is because snowshoeing is.....uh....fun? On that particular day I hate to admit that they were the proper tool though. We found zero good snow for skiing from 3800' to the summit. Mostly it was varying crusts over isothermic mush.

After using some beat up Scarpa Matrix and Voile mountain plates for the past 15 years, I finally upgraded this season. Atomic Backland Pros (heel hold isn't fantastic with the BOA system) with Phantom Link Levers (these are really great), Phantom Toe pieces/ski crampons, and Spark Dyno DH bindings. Pretty sweet set up, especially for the up! It still isn't perfect for down, but getting there. I wish someone would make a ground-up splitboard boot. I tried the Phantom slippers but sent them back- not really close to ideal in my book.

Well, I knew he wore Spanx for a reason.

It appears @olyclimber jokes may have been appropriate.

Well, sorry @Bronco.....this is a full size jpg from a 24mp DSLR (over 8mb file).